cross sticks
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reloader4410
- Posts: 9
- Joined: Tue Feb 03, 2004 10:07 am
cross sticks
I would like to here opinions from shooters on cross sticks, likes dis likes ,specs ,what about prone VS setting posistions store bought vs homemade anything to do with cross sticks , thanks in advance.
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ironramrod
- Posts: 1364
- Joined: Tue Aug 05, 2003 1:12 pm
- Location: Dakota Territory
Reloader,
I will address cross-sticks from the hunting standpoint. Personally, I wouldn't leave my pickup without them. I carry 2 sets; 1 set for sitting and 1 set for prone.
For hunting I make my own out of 5/8" square oak, but any good hardwood will do. The length and where you put the bolt to connect the 2 individual sticks depends mostly on you stature. I connect the 2 sticks with a 1/4" bolt a washer and lock nut. I attached a 5/8" strip of leather on each stick at the point where the rifle stock will rest. This cushions the stock, prevents marring of your stock, and also grips it somewhat to add to the overall stability. I also drill a hole in the bottom of each stick and put the shank off a good size nail in the bottom of each stick to prevent the cross-sticks from spreading once I have them set where I want them. I also stain them with my all time favorite stain of diesel fuel and roofing tar; you can make them as dark or light as you want with this stuff.
With these and lots of practice, of course, one should be able to shoot deer/antelope size targets right behind the shoulder at 300 m. on 10 consecutive shots almost regardless of wind direction or velocity.
Regards
I will address cross-sticks from the hunting standpoint. Personally, I wouldn't leave my pickup without them. I carry 2 sets; 1 set for sitting and 1 set for prone.
For hunting I make my own out of 5/8" square oak, but any good hardwood will do. The length and where you put the bolt to connect the 2 individual sticks depends mostly on you stature. I connect the 2 sticks with a 1/4" bolt a washer and lock nut. I attached a 5/8" strip of leather on each stick at the point where the rifle stock will rest. This cushions the stock, prevents marring of your stock, and also grips it somewhat to add to the overall stability. I also drill a hole in the bottom of each stick and put the shank off a good size nail in the bottom of each stick to prevent the cross-sticks from spreading once I have them set where I want them. I also stain them with my all time favorite stain of diesel fuel and roofing tar; you can make them as dark or light as you want with this stuff.
With these and lots of practice, of course, one should be able to shoot deer/antelope size targets right behind the shoulder at 300 m. on 10 consecutive shots almost regardless of wind direction or velocity.
Regards
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Tasmanian Rebel
- Posts: 2117
- Joined: Sat Mar 08, 2003 3:39 pm
- Location: Bay Springs, MS
Reloader, I looked into this like you are a year or two ago. Keep in mind the BPCR rules allow for circular sticks to be no more than 1 1/2 in in diameter and rectangular (in cross section) sticks no larger than 1x2". Also the spikes can be no longer than 3". (Someone correct me if I'm wrong-just going from memory). I tend to enjoy making things so I went to the local hardware store and bought two hickory rake/hoe handles. These were nice because they are made of a tough wood and already had the taper where the spikes go. For the spikes I used 2 class 8 (hardened) 1/4 in bolts and epoxied them into the ends and later ground the tips to the regulation length. My good friend Sidra sewed some sleeves out of some thick material to slide down the shaft to rest where the gun barrel is placed while shooting so the finish on the barrel is not marred. Sticks about 40-42 inches will cover both the prone and sitting positions for most folks. I definetly prefer shooting prone. It's a little more stable it seems to me but I seem to shot about as well from both positions for some reason.