Antique finish?

[SFogler]

I have 16# bull barrel 50-90 Shiloh on order and they are about ready to get it started. I would like it to look like an original rifle that was used on the herds. I was wondering is any of you have done the "antique finish" instead of the case hardened finish on the receiver. If so, how did it work out? Would it look good or would it look phony next to a standard finished barrel?

[Beruisis]

I think it'd look good, especially with a bull barrel. I have an older Shiloh & the receiver has been worn down to a silvery finish. Its been rebarrelled with a brand new blue barrel & it looks fine to me. PM your email & I'll send pics if you'd like. Their antique finish looks great to me & if I was to order a new rifle I'd get it antiqued.
Regards.
B.

[Todd Birch]

The "original" rifles had a factory new finish. 150 years later, they look "antiqued". It's called patina.

Used to amuse me at re-enactments when people would comment on how 'new' my P-H .577 Enfields looked. Answer - "Why wouldn't they? They were just issued from stores. If you want "antique", they have one down the street in the Museum."

[Marathonman]

Since an original 16 pound Sharps 50-90 is worth more than both cars in an average family having your Shiloh antiqued at the factory is a reasonable alternative. A couple of things I want to point out though is no matter what you do it won't really look like a buffalo harvest gun up close. True from across the room using a kerosene lamp as the sole source of light and if you squint a little it will look like one pretty much. It also won't make your rifle worth more as condition is everything. Your money is better spent on a polished barrel and pack hardened metal finish. If you really want a Sharps that looks like an original that's been there and done that save your money and go buy one. The roughed up guns are cheaper anyway.

If you still want a new gun with an antique finish after reading this then go ahead just understand what you're getting into.

[Kurt]

I have a Shiloh .50-2.5. This rifle has been used more then any of the other rifles I have. Most of the bluing is rubbed off from handling and sliding on the cross sticks. The bluing is wore off the muzzle from the muzzle blast. The bone case is wore off the lever as well as the loading trough. The butplate is shiny from use. I just haven't let any rust set in or this rifle would look antique 100%
Use the rifle and it will antique it self with your help.

[SFogler]

Your money is better spent on a polished barrel

I remember reading a thread about polished barrels vs the regular finish for what would be more authentic on a buffalo rifle. But after looking for it I couldn't find it again. Can you remind me why the polished barrel especially on a bull barrel that will have standard straight grain wood and nothing fancy? Is it because all the Sharps came that Way? I looked at all the pictures I've collected of originals that have been on recent auctions and I can't really tell what they had - just "patina" now.

[Marathonman]

I've handled a lot of the original Sharps guns and have a 16 pound rifle now that still has almost all of the original blue on the barrel. The original barrel is finished better than the Shiloh standard but not quite as good as their polished. Most of the people that handle both will agree the Shiloh polished barrel is closer to what the originals looked like. Get polished fire blued screws too. Get the hand select option on wood in the standard grade for a Bridgeport gun.

[SFogler]

Great input - thanks. I thought it was something like that. I'm asking for hand select straight grain dark walnut. I would wait for the Colo Gun Collectors Show in May and look at real ones, but the bull barrel won't wait and it's time to get my order paid up if I'm going to do this. Don't think I want to wait 4 yrs for the next run. Thanks

[Lumpy Grits]

That finish is done with acid.
Let real use, age your rifle
Gary