Got my first Sharps

[ChrisF]

It also has an original factory Creedmoor Sharps butt plate with the target on the butt plate. It is in Sellers book. The type of butt plate not the rifle

[Sleepy]

Thank you for all the kind words and great info! I hope you all will bear with me as I learn this new to me thing called BPCR. I've been a competitive shooter in Bullseye and now F-class for many years so reloading is not new. At my custom pistol shop that I own we shoot about 50k rounds of .45Auto, 9mm and .38super a year. But learning about compression, drop tubes, blow tubes, wads, grease cookies and all the like is a completely new experience.

bobw, you sure seem to have a lot of knowledge on the rifle particulars. That is very helpful to me. Something inside me says you are right and that I need to be looking forward to purchasing another similar rifle in .45-70 just for reasons. Can't say I'll ever compete but a feller never knows what will come around the bend.

BFR, seeing your chamber specs was very helpful and has spurred me on to another idea. I'm ordering some cerrosafe to check the chamber, but it does look like there is a bit of freebore at the head of the chamber. That's probably why the PP bullet I tested seated out so long.

The lady I traded with had bought a bunch of stuff for it that I doubt I'll ever use. There is a box of .458" 395g GG bullets (457124.458), a huge bag of 1/2" shotgun wads and some other odds and ends. I'm sure I'll find someone to use what I can't or trade for things to help me along the way.

Also of note, the other day, the same friend who tempted me by dropping off his .45-70 to shoot dropped off something else. He said he was never going to use it so he left it for me to have. It appears to be a Vernier 5" Long Range Tang Sight by Davide Pedersoli with elevation and windage adjustment. The peep hole is VERY tiny. I have since mounted it to the rifle and was using it when shooting yesterday. I'll have to study up on it's purpose and range and may even have to drill out the peep hole a little bit as at 42 my eyes are not 25 anymore.

I have read in MLV's book that the freebore was made so guys could "load to potential" so to speak. What a shame, but alas I shall persevere and see what I can figure out...

Again, thank you all for the kind words and help, both current and future! I'm excited to own such a fine example of this type of rifle.

[BFD]

Generally, Paper patched bullets (PPBs) are loaded out as long as possible, often less than 0.1" of bullet in the case. But these bullets are bore diameter (that is they are the diameter of the distance across the lands of the rifling.

In your case, you need a groove diameter (.458" generally) or slightly larger bullet that will fill up that freebore. 0.460" would be ideal in the instance that I experienced, but I was a slight bit smaller because I was trying to shoot with a dirty bore (hunting).

Good luck with your rifle. It will shoot okay, but probably not great. Personally, I think it should be rebarreled. I have certainly never regretted. But it's your rifle. You can save the barrel and spin it back on if you wish, of course.

As for that tang sight, be careful about drilling it out. There is a reason that eyecup is so small. To some extent, the worse your eyes, the smaller it should be to increase the sharpness of the image. Overall, the Pederoli tang sight is not particularly great, especially since it only folds in one direction. A good quality tang sight will set you back some dollars, but you will do much better with it.

[Sleepy]

BFD, When you mention groove diameter bullets are you speaking of before or after the paper is attached? The reason I ask is I miced my barrel groves at the muzzle end and they measure .457". When I unwrapped some of the old PP bullets that came with the rifle to measure them they came out at .447" at the base end (they are tapered smaller at the front it seems and are of the pigtail wrapping variety) but with the paper they were at .459"

I just want to make sure I understand you correctly before going off half cocked and ordering something I don't need.

And full copy on the sighting situation.

Thank you again for the knowledge.

[bobw]

Sleepy, your assessment of the DPed tang sight is spot on. Look around some DPed made a Hadley cup for their tang sights,you might find one at a reasonable price somewhere. Best advice is to replace the whole thing for MVA Soule sight or other quality brand of that type. The freebore can work but the biggest problem with it is that it is usually been OVERBORED past the groove diameter. This means the bullet will start to slug up before it is completely in the rifling. Like BFD said patching to .002" over groove maybe some help to you. You should be able to look down the bore in good light and see the end of the chamber and then the freebore before the lands start. If there is a small but visible step down to groove diameter its OVERBORED freebore. Get some Fg and get going, you gotta get it ready for deer season. bobw

[bobw]

Sleepy, your assessment of the DPed tang sight is spot on. Look around some DPed made a Hadley cup for their tang sights,you might find one at a reasonable price somewhere. Best advice is to replace the whole thing for MVA Soule sight or other quality brand of that type. The freebore can work but the biggest problem with it is that it is usually been OVERBORED past the groove diameter. This means the bullet will start to slug up before it is completely in the rifling. Like BFD said patching to .002" over groove maybe some help to you. You should be able to look down the bore in good light and see the end of the chamber and then the freebore before the lands start. If there is a small but visible step down to groove diameter its OVERBORED freebore. Get some Fg and get going, you gotta get it ready for deer season. bobw

[Sleepy]

Sleepy, your assessment of the DPed tang sight is spot on. Look around some DPed made a Hadley cup for their tang sights,you might find one at a reasonable price somewhere. Best advice is to replace the whole thing for MVA Soule sight or other quality brand of that type. The freebore can work but the biggest problem with it is that it is usually been OVERBORED past the groove diameter. This means the bullet will start to slug up before it is completely in the rifling. Like BFD said patching to .002" over groove maybe some help to you. You should be able to look down the bore in good light and see the end of the chamber and then the freebore before the lands start. If there is a small but visible step down to groove diameter its OVERBORED freebore. Get some Fg and get going, you gotta get it ready for deer season. bobw

bobw,

I looked down the bore today and there is indeed an overbored section. Tis a shame, but I'll see how it shoots none the less. Now I just have to find some decent bullets to paperpatch since I don't have casting ability just yet.

[BFD]

Sleepy, your assessment of the DPed tang sight is spot on. Look around some DPed made a Hadley cup for their tang sights,you might find one at a reasonable price somewhere. Best advice is to replace the whole thing for MVA Soule sight or other quality brand of that type. The freebore can work but the biggest problem with it is that it is usually been OVERBORED past the groove diameter. This means the bullet will start to slug up before it is completely in the rifling. Like BFD said patching to .002" over groove maybe some help to you. You should be able to look down the bore in good light and see the end of the chamber and then the freebore before the lands start. If there is a small but visible step down to groove diameter its OVERBORED freebore. Get some Fg and get going, you gotta get it ready for deer season. bobw

bobw,

I looked down the bore today and there is indeed an overbored section. Tis a shame, but I'll see how it shoots none the less. Now I just have to find some decent bullets to paperpatch since I don't have casting ability just yet.

When I killed an elk with my Wolfgang/Farmington Shiloh with original chamber, I used bullets that were .452" before patching. I don't know if there is a mould that big, or if anyone is selling bullets that big. You might look at what Buffalo Arms sells for already cast bullets. If you can get them at .450 or above, I can recommend paper that will work okay with that chamber, but it will be a wrestling match.

[beltfed]

Depending on the length of that "overbore"/freebore,
you could go with a Dual Diameter bullet: Appropriate length base band
at "patch to case I.D./freebore" and a forward body diameter at "patch to lands" .
Works very well for some of us with Gg chambers

After you play with the rifle/barrel/chamber as is ,
Can you have the barrel set back rather than a total replacement to
go to the 45-70?
Or is the barrel too small forward of the "scallop' at the face of action?
beltfed/arnie

Also

[Sleepy]

When you folks shoot PP bullets, do you shoot straight lead or a tin/lead mix?

[BFD]

Lead-tin. Depending on the bullet shape and purpose from 40:1 to 16:1, some go harder yet.

[Lumpy Grits]

Well-I see the hook is 'set' and you can say 'bu-buy' to your savings account.
BPCR loading is a whole different world in reloading.
Till you start wrapping/casting your own, give these a try.
https://www.montanabulletworks.com/prod ... re/page/5/

Gary

[Sleepy]

Well-I see the hook is 'set' and you can say 'bu-buy' to your savings account.
BPCR loading is a whole different world in reloading.
Till you start wrapping/casting your own, give these a try.
https://www.montanabulletworks.com/prod ... re/page/5/

Gary

Gary,

Thank you sir. I had been looking at those bullets wondering how they would work. I think I'll order a few up and give them a go. I'm also gonna order a few un-patched from BACO to patch myself and see how that goes. Reckon I'm gonna have to order some Fg as no one around here seems to have any in stock.

[Lumpy Grits]

What's your AO?
G.

[Sleepy]

What's your AO?
G.

SE Nebraska.