Plumbing the tang sight

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kwilliams
Posts: 284
Joined: Tue Oct 08, 2019 8:42 am
Location: Wyoming

Plumbing the tang sight

Post by kwilliams »

My regular shoots are from 600 to 1200 yds. Initially I did plumb the Soule tang sight dead nuts with Starrett levels in a precision milling vise. But now I wonder about plumbing for a no wind zero windage setting for say at 800 yds with no sight offset to counter spin drift. How do others set up their sights for the extended ranges?
kw
Tomklinger
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Re: Plumbing the tang sight

Post by Tomklinger »

Williams,
That’s where a windage front sight comes in… or you could shim the base of your soule sight to give you about 3.0 min. for your1000yds sight setting, that way spin drift would be compensated for at all ranges
Tom
rgchristensen
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Re: Plumbing the tang sight

Post by rgchristensen »

Compensated ... sorta, but the spin drift is not linear with range. Better to just know what it is and add it to your information base.

CHRIS
kwilliams
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Re: Plumbing the tang sight

Post by kwilliams »

Chris, interesting thought on not being a linear constant. I should have paid more attention in physics class!
kw
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Lumpy Grits
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Re: Plumbing the tang sight

Post by Lumpy Grits »

Tilt the staff 2-3* towards the muzzle. This helps in keeping full view in the eyepiece at long range.
Set you no-wind zero after you settle on the load you will use.
Gary
"Hav'n you along, is like loose'n two good men"
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1578Tiger
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Re: Plumbing the tang sight

Post by 1578Tiger »

Exactly how does one plumb a tang sight?
Wayne

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1578Tiger
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Re: Plumbing the tang sight

Post by 1578Tiger »

Exactly how does one plumb a tang sight?
Wayne

“I prefer dangerous freedom over peaceful slavery.”
– Thomas Jefferson, letter to James Madison, January 30, 1787
mdeland
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Re: Plumbing the tang sight

Post by mdeland »

To me it means getting every sight and scope block square with TDC ( top dead center). I don't ascribe to the notion of canting sight staffs to compensate for spin drift because it's more accurate to dial in windage and elevation with sights or scope square to TDC which operates on a grid rather than a tangent angle which is harder to set accurately .
rgchristensen
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Re: Plumbing the tang sight

Post by rgchristensen »

WAYNE:
Mount the rifle firmly with the bubble in the front sight centered. Then shim the rear sight base until the staff is vertical.

CHRIS
rgchristensen
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Re: Plumbing the tang sight

Post by rgchristensen »

WAYNE:
Mount the rifle firmly with the bubble in the front sight centered. Then shim the rear sight base until the staff is vertical.

CHRIS
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Lumpy Grits
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Re: Plumbing the tang sight

Post by Lumpy Grits »

"Hav'n you along, is like loose'n two good men"
Perentie
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Re: Plumbing the tang sight

Post by Perentie »

Tried to get that Lumpy but the site comes up with, "Sorry the page you are looking for does not exist" :(
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desert deuce
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Re: Plumbing the tang sight

Post by desert deuce »

KW wrote: How do others set up their sights for the extended ranges?

And he specified TANG SIGHTS at that. This is an "EASY" way to get started.

Assuming KW has an aperture front sight with bubble and access to a place to shoot at 100 yards I can describe how I set my mid range rifles.

Starting with 600 yard setting, right hand shooter, right hand twist barrel. Adjust the rear staff to the 600 yard elevation and zero windage. Then adjust the cant of the rear sight until the rear aperture appears perfectly round when looking through at the front sight.

Need a relatively clean piece of cardboard at least 30 inches tall (36" is better") and about 24 inches wide.

Draw a black line vertically lengthwise straight down through the center that is easily visible from 100 yards. I use one inch tape for the line, either dark blue or black.

About 15 inches up from the bottom tape a perpendicular line across the cardboard from side to side. As perpendicular as possible.

Using a drawing compass draw a three inch diameter circle (aiming point) using the point of the compass at the center of the intersection of the vertical and horizontal taped lines. Darken the circle.

Using a front aperture that has the four crossed hairs attached to the centered aperture the spirit level bubble should be centered when the crossed hairs in the front aperture is perfectly aligned with the center of the aiming point and the intersecting taped reference lines.

Fire a shot and a second. If the first two shots are close together drift the front sight right or left until two shots hit the vertical taped line.

Pretty much same process for 900 yards and beyond except you need a 900 yard rear staff setting and at least 38 inches of cardboard above the aiming point with most rifles and long range loads. From 100 yards about one to one and a half inches left of the taped vertical line will get you more or less set for the longer distances. This is where a windgauge front sight pays off. You then have a setting for mid range and know the allowance setting for long range.
Sometimes you get the chicken, and sometimes you get the feathers!
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desert deuce
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Re: Plumbing the tang sight

Post by desert deuce »

I forgot to include when posting the cardboard, plumb the vertical taped line so it is perfectly vertical.
Sometimes you get the chicken, and sometimes you get the feathers!
kwilliams
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Re: Plumbing the tang sight

Post by kwilliams »

desert deuce
I had to re-read your tape and cardboard technique 3 times, thinking I understand now. To be sure, are the test shoots all fired from 100yds using the 6,7,8, 9,1000 settings? I do have a windage front on another rifle, but every I take the rifle out I just cringe at the prospect of somehow whacking it in use, especially off the sticks, so easy to bend the adjustment screw with 45-90/110 recoil.....its just fragile.
thanks
kw
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