Vernier sight question

[TimW]

What is the secret to replacing the staff on the base?

The pressure from the spring that holds it in position makes getting the screw in impossible without loosening the spring.

Does this affect zero significantly?

If so, is there an easy way to do this that is escaping me?

Thanks,
Tim

[BFD]

There is at least one way, maybe two.

1. You have to put your rifle in a secure cradle first, but then simply push the staff down hard with left hand while inserting screw with right hand. Th is easiest with the staff in the upright position so the tit on the spring is in the notch of the staff - and thus requires less spring compression. This is the method I use with all of my MVA sights.

2. On most bases, the screw that hold the spring is separate from the screws that hold the base to the tang. Also, on most bases, the tang pushes up on the spring from below to increase its pressure on the staff. Where this is the case (all MVAs of which I am aware), you can loosen the base screws that attache it to the base a few turns and then install the staff quite easily. and then retighten the screws.

Either method will not affect zeros. Loosening the screw that holds the staff spring may affect zeros because that screw also generally adjusts for staff pitch fore and aft.

[bpcr shooter]

Thought the rear screw was the tension screw???

while your at it.....check the level of the staff to your bubble up front!!! a cheap feeler gauge from harbor freight works well for shimming, this will help you as you move out.....

[BFD]

Thought the rear screw was the tension screw???

while your at it.....check the level of the staff to your bubble up front!!! a cheap feeler gauge from harbor freight works well for shimming, this will help you as you move out.....

It depends on the base. Generally it is not. There may be a spring screw coming up from the bottom or down from the top, depending upon the rifle it is designed for.

[TimW]

1. You have to put your rifle in a secure cradle first, but then simply push the staff down hard with left hand while inserting screw with right hand. Th is easiest with the staff in the upright position so the tit on the spring is in the notch of the staff - and thus requires less spring compression. This is the method I use with all of my MVA sights.

Thanks!
Kinda figured that might be the case.

Loosening the screw that holds the staff spring may affect zeros because that screw also generally adjusts for staff pitch fore and aft.

Sort of ASSuMEd that, thanks for the verification!!

[TimW]

...check the level of the staff to your bubble up front!!! a cheap feeler gauge from harbor freight works well for shimming, this will help you as you move out.....

That seems to be as plumb as my bifocaled glasses can see.

[BFD]

What brand of base is it? and what rifle is it going on?

[TimW]

What brand of base is it? and what rifle is it going on?

MVA 101 on a 30" barrelled Rough Rider from Shiloh last year. Using a plain post front as I'm very familiar/comfortable with my M1 peep sights and figured I'd stay with what I know for now.

Haven't had much chance to play with, only about 40 rounds from Buffalo Arms and another 60 reloads that I really haven't tested past 100 yards yet.

They seem to group fairly well, but come spring I'll try them at the 200 yard line which is the max my local range has.

[TimW]

1. You have to put your rifle in a secure cradle first, but then simply push the staff down hard with left hand while inserting screw with right hand. Th is easiest with the staff in the upright position so the tit on the spring is in the notch of the staff - and thus requires less spring compression. This is the method I use with all of my MVA sights.

Thanks!
Kinda figured that might be the case.

For me, with limited strength in both hands, just is not possible.

Guess it doesn't matter much, don't really have any plans to routinely remove it.