stuck shell

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BFD
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Re: stuck shell

Post by BFD »

Sizing lube on brass?
Clarence
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Re: stuck shell

Post by Clarence »

Looks like the shell is breaking at firing and the broken piece is being carried forward into the rifling with the bullet. I can show you a .45-90 case that looks almost identical. I removed it with a tight patch from the muzzle, and believe it was caused by moisture in the chamber.

Clarence
BFD
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Re: stuck shell

Post by BFD »

A shooting partner had this problem when trying PPBs that were too large for the chamber. They would just barely chamber the brass with a patched bullet and the the bullet would pull the brass forward. Thinning the necks or using thinner paper solved the problem.
mdeland
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Re: stuck shell

Post by mdeland »

Did you have any moisture in the chamber that you can think of? If not I'm beginning to wonder if some of this is caused by to much annealing.
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kenny s
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Re: stuck shell

Post by kenny s »

Ok guys....
no sizing lube...don't use it
water in chamber.
.yeah. possible. I wet then dry patch..so I'll chamber swab it....
not too much annealing..
.just did it once...at trimming...
PP bullet is custom mold...bore .400 diameter at front and groove .408 at rear 1/4 inch...fits shell fine...
so I don't think it's that.

breaking on firing then the top part being pushed forward
..Now that makes sense . so I'll check each shell again for length and signs of any separating.

You guys are always right on....thanks...Ken
martinibelgian
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Re: stuck shell

Post by martinibelgian »

I had an issue with walnut tumbling media building up in the case necks, giving a gritty surface that gripped the bullet enough to tear the necks off. Thought I had worn brass, not so. Either don't tumble with walnut media or clean the inside case necks after tumbling.
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kenny s
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Re: stuck shell

Post by kenny s »

thanks Martin, but I use ceramic. threw away the walnut.....kept getting stuck in the case, went to steel....kept turning the necks over....went to ceramic....no problems,,, Ken
cat1870
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Re: stuck shell

Post by cat1870 »

mdeland wrote: Wed Sep 18, 2019 11:46 am Plug the bore ahead of the chamber with a patch, melt some cerosafe into the broken case section and let it set for about a half hour . It will grip the interior case wall and you can drive it out from the muzzle with a cleaning rod. Cerosafe expands initially then contracts.
This will work.
Used this method a few times in the past.
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kenny s
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Re: stuck shell

Post by kenny s »

exactly what I did and it popped out easily. cerro safe is a must. BUT. I'd like to find a way to do something at the range.
by the way. Kirk from Shiloh returned my call...nice guy....they really take care of us....Ken
hipshot1
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Location: Forsyth Montana

Re: stuck shell

Post by hipshot1 »

I don't know how to post pictures on but I will try to explain what I have built for friends the last couple of years that works to pull broken cases.
I make a t handle that has a tapered bell on the end, this is about 5 inches long. on the shaft between the handle and the bell is a 2 inch piece of 1/4 tygon fuel hose (tygon is very flexable and soft) the end of the hose faceing the bell has two half inch cuts at 90 degrees so when hose is slipped over the bell half slides up each side. you slide the bell and the hose in the broken case and hold the hose in place while pulling on the t handle, the bell goes in the hose pushing it out against the case, if you cant pull it out by hand you can run a cleaning rod down the barrel and tap on the bell and out all comes.
Ive been making one with 1/4 hose for 45 cal and one with 3/8 hose for 38 and 40. the bell has to be made to fit in case with a little room. the shaft of the t handle has to slide inside the hose.
I also make a tool to push the hose in against the bell, it is a washer with a piece cut out of it so it looks like a horse shoe. a t handle is welded to it. the washer will slip over the shaft of the puller behind the hose and then you can push the hose up on the bell.
Hope you understand this, it works very well.
Dave
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mdeland
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Re: stuck shell

Post by mdeland »

I understand exactly what you are describing but would sure like to see a picture of it. What is your bell made off, brass or steel. I'd think hard brass or mild steel would be the way to go so if you slip off they're is no chance of galling the throat or chamber wall.
I've seen some really messed up chamber walls when hard tools like knife points, screw drivers or drill bits were used.
Also a crown and even bore interior can be screwed up when driving obstructions out with a steel rod if it isn't first padded with a tape ring ever few inches and a crown guard used.
hipshot1
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Re: stuck shell

Post by hipshot1 »

I have been making them out of mild steel, I am sure brass would be better. I make the shaft and bell on a lathe, (one piece) and polish best I can. With the bell being centered in the hose it would be pretty hard to mess up the chamber, but I know some people that could hurt a anvil. :lol:
Dave
A man must standup before you can see how long of a shadow he will cast
hipshot1
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Re: stuck shell

Post by hipshot1 »

The first ones I made out of a screwdriver handle from craftsman they had a nice tapper, but cant get them anymore.
Dave
A man must standup before you can see how long of a shadow he will cast
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desert deuce
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Re: stuck shell

Post by desert deuce »

Now understand that before you read any further that it was necessary at one time to have the ability to remove the front third of a separated case that was lodged far enough up into the rifling that is was about three inches past the throat, AND, that the method of removing that part of the separated case that was "FIRMLY" lodged in the rifling had to be sufficient to remove that obstruction during a match while on the clock.

The .44 Cal tool is a 1.75" long solid brass cylinder .432" in diameter and is threaded on one end to fit the male end of my cleaning rod.

Upon extracting the partial fired case run one patch up through the barrel from the breech end to clear most of the fouling and then insert this tool on the cleaning rod through the muzzle. Tap, tap and the broken piece comes out. Remove the cleaning rod, do your fouling control, load and shoot. Takes less time to do it than it takes to write about it.

Opened the mouth of the chamber about one and one half thousandths and didn't need the tool any longer. Keep it with me all the time anyway.

The .45 Caliber one measures 1.75" long solid brass cylinder .447" in diameter. Works the same
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mdeland
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Re: stuck shell

Post by mdeland »

Sounds like one needs a coupled different broken case extractors for match shooting depending on where it breaks off. Never have had one break off and drive up bore yet.
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