Another keeper Roller

[mdeland]

I often times lap my brand new barrels as a rule. You would be surprised what a plug gauge or bore scope reveals, even in high end barrels.
Strange but true, you can tell much more about a bores interior and how it will probably behave by what is felt (lap) apposed to what is seen (scope).

[mdeland]

Firing pin retraction cam on bottom of block.

Spring loaded cam lever that retracts firing pin and tensions the block opening

Most accurate way to work on any barrel is between centers and using a dog to drive it.

Old gunsmith trick I picked up somewhere and use all the time for barrel crown work that leaves the finish on marked. The steady rest bearings run on the raised filaments.

Reacy to turn the muzzle face with a crown tool,

Finished cut and dressed with 400 grit emery.

[J.B.]

Great photos and following the thread is certainly interesting. You make it look easy. Be interesting to see how the original chambering performs for you.

J.B.

[mdeland]

Been together for better than a century. It took some real blows from a 2 lbs hammer to break it loose in the vice with the action wrench.

[mdeland]

Well good,this is fun leaning stuff together with folks of common interest.

[mdeland]

I was thinking yesterday ,while running the lap rod , that I would hate to arm wrestle a fella that run one every day for a year or two. Have arms, wrists and shoulders like King Kong!

[Woody]

Mike,

Nice thread. Thanks. Instead of the filament, I turn a close fitting aluminum sleeve and then turn it true between the centers before installing the steady rest. The same sleeve can be re-used several times before it gets turned too small. a set screw with brass or copper pad locks it in place.

Woody

[mdeland]

In this photo you can see the wear impression on top the muzzle crown. This is not a drop dent as it is not puckered but rather has been worn away. I think it is from a stirrup boot. I think the gun is carried on the side behind the cavalryman by the action ring and the muzzle is, I think, down in a stirrup boot to keep it from flopping all over the place. I'm sure I have seen this set up somewhere in the past.
I wanted to retain that bit of history but the pit in the crown made it necessary to remove if there was any hope of getting it to shoot well.

[mdeland]

Hey, thanks Woody, I bet that idea can work on an octagon as well, no? I really hate to fiddle around with a spider and shims on octagon barrels.
The filament tape is so quick and easy for round barrels I never have developed anther method.

[Woody]

Mike,

It does work great on octagon barrels.

Woody

[Woody]

Mike,

It does work great on octagon barrels.

Woody

[mdeland]

Woody, can you post a picture of your aluminum bearing sleeve? I'd like to see if it is how I imagine it looks. I really love getting these new methods (to me) and ideas. Like finding a gold nugget in a stream bed!

[Woody]

I can't Mike. Photobucket and I are not getting along right now.

It's just a simple sleeve cut from solid aluminum bar stock and bored to a close fit. I then drill and tap it for one set screw. I pad the screw with a small piece of copper so the barrel is not marred. I set it between centers and turn the sleeve to be true to the centerline of the bore. I have the same Altas lathe that you have. The sleeve must be re-cut if it is loosened or is to be re-useed on another barrel. Works especially great on octagon barrels. It's amazing how far off-center some bores are.

Woody

[mdeland]

Does the steady rest bearing finger run right over the set screw hole (on sleeve center) or is it off set to the side? How long do you make it?
I guess a fella could plug it and then turn the sleeve co-axial with the bore center so the set screw and steady rest bearing would be on center with each other.

[John Bly]

Mike, here's one I did for a 1st mod Kentucky Ballard barrel. The collar is a standard set collar purchased from industrial supply houses. They are available in fractional sizes from small to up several inches. I bore it to just fit over the octagon corners. The set screw must be shorter than the height of the OD of the collar. It can run right under the finger of the steady rest or you can offset it a little so the rest runs on a continuous surface.

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