Paper Patch Setting Tool

[patchbox]

Hello All,

Was patching some bullets the other day and I thought up an idea for keeping the same amount of patch fold-over at the base of the bullet. I don't know what everyone uses to keep this consistent, and maybe some are using something similar but here is what I came up with. I can adjust the amount of fold-over that I want by screwing the center screw in or out and locking it with the knurled nut. This also adjusts where the patch ends at the ogive to a small degree. I roll the patch with approximately 1/32" off the base of the bullet, then slip the small boss into the paper patch until the bullet touches the end of the tool and gently slide the paper down until it touches the tool base/body. The patch is then tightened and the fold-over completed. I find this method to really work well for me.

Best,

Eric

[patchbox]

Here is the drawing for it:

[patchbox]

The component drawings:

[ian45662]

If you can keep your patch height consistent then I think you have a great idea there. The way I do it ( for now) just to expedite the process that height will vary a little for me. I have a way of keeping the distance where the patch ends and the ogive begins consistent. Some bullets will have more fold over at the base than others though but one of my projects this winter is to figure out how to cut lots of patches that are exactly the same in a short period of time. I have some ideas so we will see. If it works then your tool would be handy in insuring they are all patched exactly the same

[patchbox]

Hi Ian,

I compared all the bullets I patched with this tool and the paper at the ogive end is spot on at the same place every time.

Best,

Eric

[patchbox]

Adjusting the tool for a different fold-over distance will change where the paper ends on the ogive end.

[Distant Thunder]

Eric,
Interesting tool, simple and well presented.

The amount of fold over hasn't been something I worry about because like Ian I don't seem able to maintain a consistent patch height. In part because I'm still trying to come up with the best way to do just that. My patches probably very as much as +/- 1/32, well maybe not that much but it is very noticeable.

I am much fussier about where the patch starts in relationship to the ogive. Most of my molds are cut with a faint line at the start of the ogive so I can line the start point of the patch up consistently. In some of my molds the line is put in after the mold is made. The fold over just ends up where it does and since it doesn't seem to affect my scores I just don't worry about it. At least not after the bullets are loaded. When I'm wrapping it bugs me, but once the bullets are in the cases and I can't actually see the variance I tend not to think about it.

I'll have to try and make a better effort to be consistent with my patch cutting going into this coming year. The biggest area for improvement being the height. I have already learned to keep my patch width (around the bullet) much more consistent and therefore the gap between the ends is more consistent and I believe that to be more the important of the two. I think that with any hand cut patches there is going to be some variation and like everyone else I've always shot what I had to work with, imperfections and all. Luckily they have done well for me.

Obviously anything that gives you and more consistent projectile as it leaves the muzzle is a good thing and your tool would help with that. I just have to work on that darn height thing!

[kenny s]

we need a u tube video.... I'm a slow learner....Ken

[Kurt]

I just put a very small dimple in the mould cavity where the ogive meets the shank. The dimple does not hurt a thing.

IMG_2812.jpg

[patchbox]

Hi Kenny,

I’ll try to create a short video and post on YouTube. As long as the patches are cut with consistent height they will be located at the same place on the ogive end of the bullet every time and as the tool is adjustable the position in relation to the ogive can be adjusted +/- .060” in relation to the ogive for a given paper width. Any more movement than that in relation to the ogive will simply require a different patch height cut. For me, I find my 12” engineers scale to be a perfect width to cut patch strips with a razor blade and a cutting mat. I get roughly +/- .005 tolerance on patch cut height with this method.

Best,

Eric

[mdeland]

Must be an optical allusion in the picture Kurt as the dimple looks to be a good bit above the shank/ogive transition. There shows a transition line on both of your bullets.

[patchbox]

Just a quick note: if you are patch “wet” then the little tool idea probably won’t work as the paper will not slip on the bullet easily. I gave up patching wet some time ago. I was a pita for me.

[Kurt]

Must be an optical allusion in the picture Kurt as the dimple looks to be a good bit above the shank/ogive transition. There shows a transition line on both of your bullets.

The transition line is on the Danielson prolate bullet on the left and what you on the right is a reflection of the left bullet transition line. The dimple is about 1/32" up as near as I can measure Mike by laying the bullet on a sheet of plate glass and sliding a double edged razor blade under the ogive. This works out just right with the alloy I use with the bullet obturation.

IMG_3334.jpeg

[mdeland]

Thanks for the picture, now I see it! I was thinking there was something I wasn't seeing or understanding correctly.

[BFD]

If you don't like dimples, you can insert a cast bullet in the mould backwards as far up as it will go (the beginning of the nose by definition), and then scratch the mold around the circumference of the base with the back of the point on your pocket knife or Exacto blade. It will create a very fine line that you can't even feel but is easy to see when patching.