new case annealer
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new case annealer
How does the new case annealer advertised in the "new items for sale" section work ?
- Don McDowell
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Re: new case annealer
You chuck it up in a drill drop the case in, and then hold the end of the case in front of the flame of a bunsen torch, with the drill turning at slow speed.
AKA Donny Ray Rockslinger
- kenny s
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Re: new case annealer
or....you can go to the hardware store, with a case, then find a long rachet to fit it loosely,
then get a bolt and two washers and two nuts, and screw it together .
slip it in your drill. slip in a case...rotate lowly to heat , tip into a bucket of cold water...Done
cost six bucks ....
I also have the drill head chuck case holder...and use it bevel the ends of the trimmed case.
but the bolt thing works easier...slip in..slip out...
Ken
then get a bolt and two washers and two nuts, and screw it together .
slip it in your drill. slip in a case...rotate lowly to heat , tip into a bucket of cold water...Done
cost six bucks ....
I also have the drill head chuck case holder...and use it bevel the ends of the trimmed case.
but the bolt thing works easier...slip in..slip out...
Ken
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Re: new case annealer
You don't need the water. Once annealed the water only cools it, and additionally gets your brass wet. Now you have to dry it. The brass has been annealed all it's going to be as soon as you remove it from the heat source. Just drop it into a aluminum cake pan so it doesn't roll away, and go to the next one.
Woody
Woody
Richard A. Wood
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Re: new case annealer
Which brings up a subject slightly off topic I've wanted to address. It appears most shooters tumble their brass then anneal it. Not liking the texture of the inside of my cases after annealing ( probably from not tumbling long enough) I've tried doing it the opposite sequence. Seems to work in what little testing i did. Needing a lot less wire brushing of the inside of the case to get it smooth.
Any input here?
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Re: new case annealer
good point semtav.
you can think inside case necks are clean, but annealing heat can produce rough scale from carbon etc still in there.
0000 steel wool on a brush can work.
bruce.
you can think inside case necks are clean, but annealing heat can produce rough scale from carbon etc still in there.
0000 steel wool on a brush can work.
bruce.
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Re: new case annealer
Just my opinion,but you need to anneal after tumbling because I feel the tumbling work hardens the cases.
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Re: new case annealer
Possible I suppose but I doubt it. I've never noticed any signs of it in my brass from ceramic tumbling and I only annealed once a year for mid range work but then I've never hardness checked them with a Rockwell either. Interesting question!
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Re: new case annealer
That was my thoughts too. Now not so sure.
I remember some years back someone on this site said he had better groups after one firing than directly after annealing.
Maybe tumbling after would do the same.
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Re: new case annealer
I don't think it hardens them a lot, I think its little each time they are tumbled. after a second tumbling and being shot once without annealing I can feel a difference from them and a fresh annealed case when sizeing on the press, don't think shooting once would harden them that much. but maybe?
A man must standup before you can see how long of a shadow he will cast
- kenny s
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Re: new case annealer
I was getting ready to say quench in water, but I pulled this up from a metal site. guess I won't wet them any more.....Ken
To Quench or Not to Quench
Notice that there was no mention of quenching the brass. To anneal brass, all that is required is heat and time. Once you have allowed the structure of the brass to transform, it's done. You can cool it as slowly or as quickly as you like and it won't matter.
The myth that you need to quench brass comes from the requirement to do so when heat treating some kinds of steel. Those steels harden by a very different mechanism that has nothing to do with brass or work hardening at all.
To Quench or Not to Quench
Notice that there was no mention of quenching the brass. To anneal brass, all that is required is heat and time. Once you have allowed the structure of the brass to transform, it's done. You can cool it as slowly or as quickly as you like and it won't matter.
The myth that you need to quench brass comes from the requirement to do so when heat treating some kinds of steel. Those steels harden by a very different mechanism that has nothing to do with brass or work hardening at all.
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Re: new case annealer
Hipshot,
Brass hardens from being worked, as in resized and expanded. Your observation may say that one resizing may produce significant hardening; I've never paid that much attention, so can't comment on it. I just anneal every firing. I really doubt that tumbling hardens them, since it doesn't work the brass.
Clarence
Brass hardens from being worked, as in resized and expanded. Your observation may say that one resizing may produce significant hardening; I've never paid that much attention, so can't comment on it. I just anneal every firing. I really doubt that tumbling hardens them, since it doesn't work the brass.
Clarence
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Re: new case annealer
Clarence
I wish there was a good way to test this, I have a couple ideas but will have to wait tell I get some brass that needs tumbled. Iam thinking that if ss pins can peen case mouths they can harden the brass, Not a big deal though because I anneal every shooting also. Thanks for your thoughts.
Dave
I wish there was a good way to test this, I have a couple ideas but will have to wait tell I get some brass that needs tumbled. Iam thinking that if ss pins can peen case mouths they can harden the brass, Not a big deal though because I anneal every shooting also. Thanks for your thoughts.
Dave
A man must standup before you can see how long of a shadow he will cast
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Re: new case annealer
I agree with hipshot. The cases get somewhat work hardened.Tried it both ways went back to tumble clean then anneal with my Annie machine. Also polish the inside of the case with 0000 steal wool on a nylon cleaning brush in my cordless drill.