Advice for building Rolling Block

[SchuetzenDave]

If you already have a MVA tang sight just buy the MVA Remington base and you can use it on your Rolling Block.

And reduce the trigger pull with a Womack piano wire trigger spring.

[SchuetzenDave]

I have obtained original parts (hammers & sears), new trigger guard screws, new tapered stock bolt and piano wire trigger springs from:

Kenn Womack

http://www.rollingblockparts.com/

[bobw]

Those rollers in 7x57 worth anything? Used as is or as a donor? Bobw

[mdeland]

I sure like mine Bob after I set it back one thread and re-chambered. I shoot it at our clang and Bang matches with a 174 grain gas check.
First 7x57 I ever owed and it is a great cartridge! It's got a good barrel and looks like it almost was never shot but the head space was long from the factory.

[mdeland]

I like to sand blast then follow with a glass bead blast before case coloring jobs which knocks down the bright finish of the coloring. It works very well and the colors stay on better because of the texturing. I also found that putting a coat or two of True oil on to protect from UV light fading also knocks down the gawdyness of color that often emerge from a polished finish of the steel.
Same is true of rust bluing or browning. Color is deeper and resists wear better.

[mdeland]

One more thing you will want to do when building a rifle on a roller or for that matter any other single shot action. Check the breech face and barrel hole face for square and make it so before fitting a new barrel. The rollers are notorious for being out of square and will make a far better gun if this is corrected. I also like to bush to small diameter firing pin which really is not necessary for black powder cartridges but is necessary for smokeless.

[bobw]

I sure like mine Bob after I set it back one thread and re-chambered. I shoot it at our clang and Bang matches with a 174 grain gas check.
First 7x57 I ever owed and it is a great cartridge! It's got a good barrel and looks like it almost was never shot but the head space was long from the factory.

Is that. A 7x57 or a 7x57R ?

[mdeland]

By the way,since were on rolling blocks, keep your eye peeled for the occasional little #4's. They make really neat little.22's. I just sold my take down model and kept the standard model. Both have been relined with Redman liners.
I hope to find a # 2 I can rebuild into a neat little walk about rifle in perhaps 25-20 or .32 S&W.

[mdeland]

7x57, the rotary ejectors spring over the rimless case head and eject as well as extract depending on how smartly one opens the block.

[mdeland]

Here are a few pictures of both the 1902 in 7x57 and the little #4 in 22 RF relined.

[mdeland]

A few more. I show a picture of a rear aperture that works well with the standard barlycorn front sight and a neoprene dry fire block.

[mdeland]

There out of sequence but you can sort them out. This is how a sweat in reline job turns out as opposed to a glue in. The joint is peened shut and the solder joint is just about invisible.

[mdeland]

Notice the dry fire block in place on the match rifle and also on the 7x57. It goes around the front side of the hammer, between it and the block. You can dry fire to your hearts content and never make contact with block or firing pin.

[mdeland]

Here is a picture of the two rollers from the other side. The case colors on the little gun came out really nice IMO.

[mdeland]

The 1902 also has a piano wire spring return and a sear lift but I left the flat main spring after dressing it. I just went out and measured the pull and it breaks clean at 3.75 lbs. I make my piano wire trigger return springs with a right angle leg at the business end to span the width of the trigger body which seems to work well by applying the pressure more evenly rather than to one side.
The sear lift and main spring dressing is what does the most weight reduction though.