Black bear in my hip pocket

[Tasmanian Rebel]

Mike,
Not completely positive but 99% sure it's an alloy frame.
Keith Lay

[Woody]

Woody correct me if I've got it wrong but I think it was Combat Commanders that have steel frames and the Commanders with the alloy frames, no ?

Mike,

You are technically correct. The Commander series of Colt pistols was introduced in the fifties and initially was only available as the "Commander" with an alloy frame. Later, a variant, with a steel frame was introduced and called the "Combat Commander". Symantec's. They are both Commanders.

Woody

[SSShooter]

Put 100s of rounds thru my alloy frame 'Commander' and it very quickly loosened up to the point it became a 'rattle-trap' and would stove-pipe light loads (200gr SWCs). In my opinion, not one of Colt/Army's better choices. For its intended use, I guess it is 'OK' if not shot much, but the steel model is considerably better for those who want to puts some rounds thru their pistol.
For CCW I've got a Ruger SP101 (the lady who does the leather-work in Solano's in Raton made a custom holster for a very reasonable $$ a couple of Nationals ago) and, like Woody, think 38Spl+P is adequate, but am thinking an Airlight 351C or PD might be a good alternative for 'walking around'.

[mdeland]

I see, there was no design change in the two . I've read that even the best tuned 1911 will maybe go 10-K rounds before needing tuned up again as the frame rails loosen up,especially when the slide is pinched but a Glock will go a 100-K and on occasion an extractor will give up.
A common fault with 1911's is most folks don't know to relieve the link down,barrel lug stop in the frame and the back of the barrel lug cracks it (frame) eventually. Shock buffs are another improvement I believe all 1911's should use for longevity in my opinion.
I rebuilt my series 80 Colt and fitted a Barsto-barrel, it will hold and inch at 25 yards from a Ransom rest. The 80 is a safer pistol with the striker block preventing a run-a-way when I guy gets to fancy with his sear engagement.
Another good mod is the four finger sear spring for fine trigger adjustment.
I still don't think ramped barrels are that big of a deal for accuracy or longevity enhancement.

[bpcr shooter]

I carry a 6in 1911 when in the woods or western woods, is it heavy.....yes is my life worth a few extra beads of sweat.......YES. I ALWAYS have it cocked and locked, in a chest holster, if your not a fan of that, I would get a double action pistol of your liking .357mag, 45colt, 41mag,44mag heck even 10mm, call up buffalo bore and get some heavy ones!!

stay safe man!!!

Matt

[bpcr shooter]

A common fault with 1911's is most folks don't know to relieve the link down,barrel lug stop in the frame and the back of the barrel lug cracks it (frame) eventually.

how is this done???

Thanks, matt

[mdeland]

Disassemble your gun and put the barrel and link back into the frame, then link the barrel down to the seat/nest at the top of the frame running parallel to the barrel. This is the designed barrel stop not the 90 degree shoulder in the frame in front of the lower barrel lug. Now while holding the barrel down level in the nest there should be at least .002 of clearance between the front of the lower barrel lug and the perpendicular frame cut out wall in front of it. I use inletting stock black for the job but soot will work just as well. If it's making contact then remove enough barrel lug material at the contact point, from the front of the lug, to make it have at least .002 clearance. Keep it square and don't remove any more than is necessary to get it clear. If it has been making contact it will be battered. Before removing any lower barrel lug material try to fit a larger diameter pin which may also correct the situation.
The link height and fit of the pin determine not only link down clearance but also lock lug engagement at the barrel top. There should be about .070 lock up depth of the barrel lugs into the slide lock cut outs. Any more and they usually start crowding/binding the slide clearance in out lock at link down.
All this stuff has to be accounted for when you swage or weld the frame rails and/or pinch the slide to take up the dual axis slop that comes with factory Colt guns. The gold cups are better but if you have a chance to handle some high end guns they don't have hardly any movement either direction. Browning designed it for reliability not target work but they will really shoot when worked over correctly.

[Michael Johnson]

Mike, in general how does Kimber stack up with their 1911's?

[mdeland]

I think Kimbers are a lot of gun for the money! I bought my series 80 Colt with the intention of learning how to smith them. I got a Jerry Kuahnhausen manual as I trust his methods about like De Haas on any thing that is a single shot rifle. When I got done with my Colt I had more money in it than the first Kimber I saw cost in the store an the Kimber looked better. I bet it wouldn't out shoot mine though but I didn't get to try the Kimber.
I then spent quite a wad on setting up a 1911 tool box with all the good stuff to over haul them and begin to learn for myself what he suggested plus some of my own discoveries. I did the same for Smith and Wessons and Ruger pistols. The man knows where of he speaks and can articulate it well.
Any way that is how I got my feet wet in hand gun work. We covered the basics in Gun school but you really start to learn when you work on your own stuff and fail a few times.
When you get into lowering slides, welding up frame rails, fitting new barrels and bushings etc, it gets kinda hair raising at times, like when I cracked a brand new slide trying to tighten it for a better frame fit. As usual I learn more from my dismal failures than anything I do a hundred times without a hitch. Then you have to learn the why of it not just that something works a certain way most of the time.Actually as the crack was back by the extractor and not near the barrel lock lugs I milled out the crack and MIg welded it to the core , milled in some slide grips to cover the weld and the gun is still going strong. The only way you can tell it was welded is that the rod was slightly different steel than the slide and the touch up blue is slightly off color. You don't want to weld any slide near the lock up cuts.
Frames are fine to weld up or swage to get a tighter slide fit. The trouble with any of these alterations is to keep the firing pin on center and they usually wind up a bit off when you start moving things around course there not always dead on from the factory either.

[mdeland]

Kieth, a magnate will quickly tell the story!

[mdeland]

Oppps I just noticed I don't spell so good some times "Magnet"!