Trapdoor ........... perhaps

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mdeland
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Re: Trapdoor ........... perhaps

Post by mdeland »

About the lapping job. I started with 220-300 grit mix and gave it 250 round trips with a lap grit fresh every 50. At 250 I cast a new lap , cleaned the barrel and went to 400 grit. Same regimen of with the grit fresh every 50 and complete at 250 round trips. Usually 1000 strokes will make them as good as they can be made unless your putting in some taper than the count can go way up.
mdeland
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Re: Trapdoor ........... perhaps

Post by mdeland »

I went to drill and tap the barrel for the Buffington sight last night and the first thing I did was fumble and loose the small front screw. It hit the floor , made a bounce and went into the nether world as I could not find it in a half hour search. The threads seem something like a 24 tpi pitch and between a #8 and 10 size that I didn't have a tap for. The screws are shouldered to match a conterbore in the sight body so had to make new screws. I threaded them 6 x48 which is plenty for a sight base. Any way I then proceeded to snap off a tap in the barrel which made me want to throw a hammer through the wall ! I feel the tap bottoming out but will I listen to what my fingers are saying , Noooooooooooooooooo I just have to give it one little bit more of a tweak to make sure it's at bottom and snnnnnapppp! Oh it's enough to make a grown man weep ................. and almost did ! :lol:
Any way it's on and about all that is left is to make and install a front blade sight and blue the ole girl.
I took a picture of the easy to make, rubber "dry fire" neoprene pads I make up from glass thermo pane setting blocks that can be picked up at most any glass shop. I figured it would be a good discovery to pass on to you guys that have trap door guns. They stay by themselves if made right and you can dry fire to your hearts content without any harm to the gun. Any one can fabricate them with a couple of wood chisels and dry wall knife.
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mdeland
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Re: Trapdoor ........... perhaps

Post by mdeland »

I had four pictures but can only get three on each post. Here is # 4.
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mdeland
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Re: Trapdoor ........... perhaps

Post by mdeland »

The pad alone picture is what the back side is shaped like to fit the latch contours. Don't know what the white stuff is on the block. Paint or some kind of oxide from rolling around in the parts bin I'm guessing.
Woody
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Re: Trapdoor ........... perhaps

Post by Woody »

Mike,

Your sight is on backwords.

Woody
Richard A. Wood
If you are surrounded. You are in a target rich environment.
mdeland
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Re: Trapdoor ........... perhaps

Post by mdeland »

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: Yes. that is so like me, better check my shoes as well !t shows how much I'm familiar with trapdoors. That's really funny and makes me have a good laugh! Thanks woody ! I would have wondered what in the world is going on when I tried to sight it in!
First the bands and now the sight. :lol: Take that ego! :lol:
mdeland
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Re: Trapdoor ........... perhaps

Post by mdeland »

Here you go Woody. Thanks for the help! When i got that on last night and took a look at it I remember thinking "I don't remember that big gap between the band and the front of the sight" but it still didn't dawn on me it was back words. Now I see how the front of the staff fits into that cut out in the top of the barrel band. I was having a rough night with the snapped off tap and then this but I sure have appreciated the input and help from all you guys who have commented and helped me up the trail while I learn about these great ole rifles.
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alfajim
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Re: Trapdoor ........... perhaps

Post by alfajim »

Mike very pretty. Woody beat me to the punch on the rear sight. What did you use to get out the broken tap?

Jim O
mdeland
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Re: Trapdoor ........... perhaps

Post by mdeland »

First I took a deep breath and said a prayer. I've broken many taps over the last forty plus years but it still gives me heart burn when it happens. This one broke while in the Forrester sight jig bushing which rarely happens as canting them is what usually causes them to break and the jig bushing prevents this. Also they should be retired after several holes as it puts a lot of stress on the hardened High speed steel and they are going to give way sooner or later but being the tight wad I am I always want to see if I can get just one more job out of them.
I first took a punch and busted off the ears sticking up out of the hole, soaked the break with rust penetrating oil them applied some heat with a propane torch. After it cooled a bit I blasted it with some compressed air to remove any fracture fragments and then inserted a three finger tap removal tool . I slowly put presser on the T handle while holding down firmly on the tools slide collar that supports the fingers , heard a little pop and out she unscrewed.
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alfajim
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Re: Trapdoor ........... perhaps

Post by alfajim »

In the race engine shop I worked at for a long time our primary engine was the 4AGE Toyota 16valve 1600cc Formula Atlantic engine. One mod we have to do was bottom tap all the cam bolt hole to use longer 6mm allen screws in place of the stock cap screws to keep the cam caps on. Also had to drill and tap 3/16 screw holes for screws to hold down the cast race cam cover. Drilling was done with a jig but hand tapped, lots of broken taps over the years very seldom could we get it out so off to the ESD shop the get them burned out, neet stuff that ESD. Never had much luck with the three prong tap remover tools usually damaged the tool.

Jim O
Woody
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Re: Trapdoor ........... perhaps

Post by Woody »

Just an aside Mike,

My dad was the inventor of the Spindle Tap Wrench that machinist use to keep a tap aligned and reduce breakage. He bought the house, ($18K), I grew up in with the funds he received from Walton, (think broken tap remover), Tool. I use his proto-type wrenches when I thread holes.

Woody
Richard A. Wood
If you are surrounded. You are in a target rich environment.
mdeland
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Re: Trapdoor ........... perhaps

Post by mdeland »

I've always found that the combination of penetrating oil , compressed air and heat usually does the trick. So far I have been able to clear every broken tap I have had to deal with . On occasion I have had to resort to a carbide center drill and easy out again with penetrating oil and some propane heat. I suspect the expansion and contraction of the heat is the main loosening factor. It does not need to be a great deal of heat either just enough to get the metal to expand some.
Drilling and tapping reminds me of dry balling a muzzle loader because it ain't a matter of if, only when it's going to happen. :lol:
mdeland
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Re: Trapdoor ........... perhaps

Post by mdeland »

That is to cool Woody,I remember you mentioning that your Dad was a cracker jack machinist. That kind of skill is just flat out genius gifting on loan from God! Got a picture of it to show?
Woody
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Re: Trapdoor ........... perhaps

Post by Woody »

Here you go Mike.
Tap Wrenches.JPG
The wrenches at 12 o'clock and 9 o'clock are the proto-types. The wrench at 3 o'clock is a production model from Walton Tool Co. The wrench at 6 o'clock is a die wrench proto-type using the same principle as the tap wrench. See the below photo.
Die Wrench.JPG
Woody
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Richard A. Wood
If you are surrounded. You are in a target rich environment.
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alfajim
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Re: Trapdoor ........... perhaps

Post by alfajim »

Woody, that's cool I have used them a number of times just great for making sure the hole is threaded straight, we found it was quicker on the Alum. Toyota heads to hand tap all the 3/16th holes with jig in place. We even tried one of the drill press auto tappers it worked well for breaking taps,ugh.

Jim O
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