Trapdoor ........... perhaps

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alfajim
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Re: Trapdoor ........... perhaps

Post by alfajim »

mdeland wrote: Tue Apr 20, 2021 2:55 am The Woodruff is .100 wide by .500 diameter. The upper portion of the extractor is circular but then the lower leg describes a larger curve which will have to be partially shaped with the cutter run out but some file and chisel work will be needed for a close fit me thinks.
I have always found fitting these extractors closely to be the most challenging part of good barrel fitting.
Why not try the 1" dia. carborundum cut off wheel in a Dremel tool to dress it up it would be just a small point of contact to grind off? That is what I am going to do when I clean up the weld repair on my new barrel. How did you clock it to make sure it is square to the receiver?
mdeland
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Re: Trapdoor ........... perhaps

Post by mdeland »

The barrel is of course now indexed to the receiver so I held the extractor in it's receiver mortise and scribed around it on the breech face for reference. I then put the barrel in the mill vice and used the end of machinist mic slide to hold across the bottom of the Woodruff cutter while lining up the perpendicular of the hing cut in the top of the barrel. This gives me vertical square for the Woodruff cut. The height of the circular part will be cut and try with the old barrel as reference a bit at a time using calipers to keep re indicating until final position depth and contour is accurate.
I then blend the minor Woodruff cuts into a close fit with Swiss files and for sharp corners an engravers chisel.
I don't care for Dremel tools in this close fit work. I'm reminded of an ole adage about nothing being so screwed up that a Dremel can't make it worse! :lol: At least in my hands!
Gamerancher
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Location: Central NSW Australia

Re: Trapdoor ........... perhaps

Post by Gamerancher »

Actually, I find that the Dremel can be used to do a fine job, right up to the point where it's finished and then the voice inside my head says, " Go on, just give it one more touch", that's usually when the job goes to shit! :shock:
Out in western NSW where it don't rain much.
Australia
mdeland
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Re: Trapdoor ........... perhaps

Post by mdeland »

Yeah, I have a Forrester on a flex shaft I use all the time and I may have to break down and use it here for the last little bit but most of the steel removal will be the Woodruff cutter and Swiss files. I have these rubber gratrex abrasive wheels for cleaning up the machine cuts that work well for this sort of thing.
These extractor cuts into the chamber need to be kept to a minimum for maximum case support in the web area.
Truth is the Woodruff can screw things up ten times faster than a Dremel mishap, Buuuuuuuuuuuuuut after you have thought through, remeasured and planned as best you can at some point you have to make chips to move forward.
mdeland
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Re: Trapdoor ........... perhaps

Post by mdeland »

Just about there! Last few thousands is spot and cut with file for a close fit.
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mdeland
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Re: Trapdoor ........... perhaps

Post by mdeland »

Well the extractor is fit the best I can make it but I don't ever seem to be completely satisfied with them even though they work very well. It's really tough for me to ever get a perfect form and nearly seemless fit. There always seems to be a wider gap some where or another I which were tighter.
It's slow work spotting in steel with graving chisels and Swiss files. :lol:
All the hand work never shows anyway so it shouldn't be a big deal but things like that under neath should be as good a fit as what shows and so I keep trying to improve. :lol: I simply would starve if I were trying to make a living in gun work hence it is only a Hobby!
mdeland
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Re: Trapdoor ........... perhaps

Post by mdeland »

Finished fit of the extractor set with GO gauge. I'll get going on the taper today.
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mdeland
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Re: Trapdoor ........... perhaps

Post by mdeland »

With the tail stock set over the calculated amount and the steady rest positioned it's time to check the set over with a taper cut and then check a give length for major and minor diameter. The difference should match the old barrel taper. I have found that almost always the calculated set over needs to be adjusted slightly to match.
I started with the muzzle taper as it has the most material to be remove and I needed to form the sight lug ring.
The taper at the muzzle was lathe cut to .006 over and striking (draw filing) will bring it up to spec.
I'm glad I don't have to do this all day every day !
I was standing beside the lathe watching it make a pass , minding my own business and a hot chip flipped off the tool, made a big arc and dropped down the front of my shirt. In that instant I made a discovery I had heretofore not been aware off. Apparently somewhere along the line I had learned the rudiments of how to do the Watusi ! :lol:
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Clark Badgett
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Location: Indiana

Re: Trapdoor ........... perhaps

Post by Clark Badgett »

I've had blue hot chips in my ears, lips, up my nose, the corner of an eye while earing safety glasses and down my shirt so frequently I can't even count. Nothing pleasant about those blue hot chips.
mdeland
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Re: Trapdoor ........... perhaps

Post by mdeland »

It is pretty amazing how hot the barrel steel gets after turning for an hour or two. About the cut max for this light bench lathe is .030 (.015 tool projection) at a pass and .020 leaves a smoother finish. As the barrel gets thinner it wants to flex more and that tends to set up chatter vibration. So far no chatter and that from keeping the tool sharp and steady rest adjusted snug at mid barrel.
It would be much better if run in cutting fluid but not set up for that.
ndnchf
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Re: Trapdoor ........... perhaps

Post by ndnchf »

Have you considered a set of roller fingers for your steady rest? I put a set on mine 5 or 6 years ago, I really like them.
Steve
Never trust a man who wears both suspenders AND a belt.
mdeland
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Re: Trapdoor ........... perhaps

Post by mdeland »

That's a great suggestion! If I turned long lengths ever day it certainly would be a necessity. I don't think it would work in this instance unless I could swivel the base to make the rollers track with the offset of the tail stock. When I reset it to bearing on the cut taper contour, for the other half of the barrel taper cut, I would also need to be able to adjust the rollers parallel to the cut taper.
The fingers of this steady rest are solid brass so I just let them wear to the offset taper by frequent re-adjustment until the bearing area settles to the barrel contour and offset angle and remains supportive-ly consistent.
Clark Badgett
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Joined: Sat Apr 18, 2020 2:14 pm
Location: Indiana

Re: Trapdoor ........... perhaps

Post by Clark Badgett »

Usually I've found the heavier the cut the smoother the finish. You could get a squirt bottle to apply coolant.
mdeland
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Re: Trapdoor ........... perhaps

Post by mdeland »

What happens Clark is as these barrels get thinned down they want to flex so you either have to lighten the cut or move the steady rest closer to the tail stock to get enough rigidness to resist chatter and maintain the taper profile. The other thing is when off setting the tail stock it works better with live centers than dead and they never are as accurate as when using a dead center.
Clark Badgett
Posts: 60
Joined: Sat Apr 18, 2020 2:14 pm
Location: Indiana

Re: Trapdoor ........... perhaps

Post by Clark Badgett »

Do you have a follower rest attachment? Live centers are usually out a few thousands.
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