.36 cal Percussion Revolver

[Glen Ring]

So if i find a used .36 cal revolver, What should I look for to make sure it's good?

[Chief Beck]

https://www.coltforum.com/forums/

[mdeland]

I'd start with sticking with a steel frame gun and then check cylinder/barrel alignment and timing. Most folks insist that the arbor (open frame models), well be matched to arbor length for rigidness which is easily fixed with some filler washers but I have never found that to be necessary to good accuracy if the wedge fits the arbor and barrel slots are level and is set to the same depth each time. It's nice for ease of consistent barrel cylinder gap (wedge depth set) but not necessary for good accuracy in my experience.
Consistent wedge depth is the deciding factor when the light comes on and that can be hash mark indicated.
By the way a drag line on the cylinder from early bolt/ cylinder latch drop is not a reason for rejection. Bad timing in when the hand tries to turn the cylinder before the bolt nose clears the cylinder notch. A pre- drop bolt/cylinder latch drag line is actually beneficial in my opinion as it aids in slowing cylinder rotation inertia before the bolt drops into the next cylinder notch and slams into the back notch wall. Most want the bolt to drop only in the lead in cuts before the notch on models that have them.
Another thing in checking barrel cylinder alignment. it can easily be checked without a range rod in any revolver with a pin light shining down bore from the muzzle at each chambers lock up. Poor chamber alignment with the bore is hard to correct and is reason for rejection in my view.
Bolt noses/tops need to be polished without changing width or depth so they don't gall the cylinder. I also like to break any sharp edges on cylinder notches which aids smooth bolt drop.
IF the loading lever has a creeping ratchet (60 Colt example) check to make sure all the teeth and their seats are in good order. Some things I look for.

[Chief Beck]

I own a 2nd generation C series .36 1851 Navy that I bought new in 1976 paid $125.00. It is very well used now, many round balls and a few conicals have been down it's barrel. I also own an F series 2nd generation .44 2nd model Dragoon which I also bought new 1988 ($300), quite a step up in power over the .36, I love them both.
I have been tempted with Uberti's there finish has improved over the years. The link for the colt forums that I posted earlier has good info on Colts and the Italian copies in their Percussion section.

Dennis

[Glen Ring]

Thanks gentlemen. I am VERY experienced with Smith and Wesson revolvers, but this Black powder stuff is all knew to me. I'll be on the hunt at gun shows and pawn shops now. I have a Lyman .375 round ball mold I use to mold balls for slingshots. Should the balls for a 36 cal pistol be pure lead, or will wheel weights do ??

[Chief Beck]

Glen,

I used the balls you could get from Hornady in the plastic box, I think it was 100 to the box. As far as I knew they were pure lead. With the hardened lead I think you would have tough time trying to ram those home using the pistol's rammer and possibly bending or breaking it.

Dennis

[Glen Ring]

Thank you Dennis. I want to start off with knowledge on this project.

[mdeland]

Ww will be a little harder on the loading ram if it's of the creeping ratchet models but the gun won't care once there in the chamber. You do need to make sure they are big enough to shave lead when you load them to prevent front end chain fire although most chain fires are from the nipple end using loose caps.
I've started using felt lubed wads instead of grease over ball of late and like it better so far.

[Glen Ring]

It's all new to me Midland. I have wanted one for years and now's the time to get it done . I looked in a couple of pawn shops today and will visit a couple more Monday.

[Castaway]

One of the best guides for beginning percussion revolver shooters:

http://www.geojohn.org/BlackPowder/bps1Mobile.html

Combine the above with wool wads saturated with Gato Feo’s lube under the ball and you can shoot all day without binding your cylinder

[Clark Badgett]

.375" balls are fine, but for the real experience, get the proper conical ball from Era's Gone and shoot them like the ODGs did. Combustible paper cartridges with only the ball end dipped in lube.

[Glen Ring]

Castaway
That is GREAT !! Thank you for taking the time to post that link.

[mdeland]

I believe all percussion revolvers were designed around ball shooting and the military were the primary promoters of conical bullet and paper cartridge application. Balls are almost always the most accurate of the two but are slower to load because the components are separate (loose).
Balls have very good speed and killing power even though up to a third less mas.

[mdeland]

One thing Glen in the article that is not true is the idea that Remington 58's never cap jam. I can assure you they do . Still my worked over Pietta target 58 model is one of the most accurate pistols I own. It is even better than my Centennial Ruger Old Army. ROA's are commanding 750.00 bucks now if you can find one but are practically indestructible except for the loading ram linkage which only bends or breaks if not fully seated before use.
ROA's are very accurate too but are not made any longer except for a few hundred special edition promotions. These special promotion guns (original design nothing fancy) were going for 1200.00. I'm told English shooters snap them up as soon as they can at just about any price.

[Clark Badgett]

It wasn’t just the military that promoted conicals. Colt did as well. Each mold in from the factory had a round and conical cavity. And by the time the ‘51 Navy gained its fame factory cartridges were available. The ‘51 remained very popular and common into the 1880s