1f powder

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Glen Ring
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1f powder

Post by Glen Ring »

Another old bud passed away and today I was allowed to go through his reloading stuff. I came away with several pounds of Black powder and some of it was 1f. Will this be alright to shoot in my 45-70? I was given several pounds of 1.5 swiss , but I'd like to use the 1f if it's usable.
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George Babits
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Re: 1f powder

Post by George Babits »

I don't know why not. Works just as well as the other granulations. A full charge will be a bit lower velocity than 2 or 3 Fg though. I just shot a batch of reloads in my 40-70 that I had loaded about 15 years ago with Fg and got some really nige groups. I also use Fg in all of my duplex loads.

George
Glen Ring
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Re: 1f powder

Post by Glen Ring »

Thanks George...I'll go with it.
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mdeland
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Re: 1f powder

Post by mdeland »

What brand of 1F? Swiss also?
Glen Ring
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Re: 1f powder

Post by Glen Ring »

Mdeland
I think it's Goex 1f.
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mdeland
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Re: 1f powder

Post by mdeland »

I've used it in my bowling ball mortar and it works just as well as cannon grade. Ball flight time is about 17 seconds with a 500 grain charge.
Lots of guys use it in muzzle loading muskets of very large bores usually over .58 cal.
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bpcr shooter
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Re: 1f powder

Post by bpcr shooter »

mdeland wrote: Thu Aug 26, 2021 3:26 am I've used it in my bowling ball mortar and it works just as well as cannon grade. Ball flight time is about 17 seconds with a 500 grain charge.
Lots of guys use it in muzzle loading muskets of very large bores usually over .58 cal.
we use blasting powder i our mortar, a 35mm film canister full. makes a 8lb ball just about disappear in the sky. If we double charge it....she's gone!
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Coltsmoke
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Re: 1f powder

Post by Coltsmoke »

A bowling ball mortar, 2 or 3 good ole boy rednecks, and a keg of beer. :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: Watch this Billy Ray.
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mdeland
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Re: 1f powder

Post by mdeland »

Yeah, mine will stand more powder as well but I want to recover the ball and it really helps to not loose sight of it. The 12 -16 lbs balls last about four flights before they come apart midair from the lift charge pressure. With the 500 grain lift charge the ball is a tiny spec at the top of the arc which is just about perfect for maximum fun and recovery.
Two years ago we were firing it up North into a loose shale cliff wall and it was tough to figure the trajectory out so the ball would strike near the top and roll back down to us. The first went right over the top and into the wood behind never to be seen again.
The trajectory is set with a jack screw from the sled base and will go from as low as 17 degrees to vertical which is were we load it with a harness to keep body parts clear of the muzzle . Never use any wadding to hold embers and keep all body parts clear of the muzzle when charging or loading the ball because it would take an arm with little trouble. One would probably get a real bad flash burn and broken ear drums if an AD occurred with this loading protocol but would sustain no lasting injury. I also always wait at least five minutes before recharging.
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1578Tiger
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Re: 1f powder

Post by 1578Tiger »

mdeland wrote: Thu Aug 26, 2021 3:26 am
Lots of guys use it in muzzle loading muskets of very large bores usually over .58 cal.
It works great in my Long Land Brown Bess (.75 caliber), I use it for priming powder in the Bess as well.
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mdeland
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Re: 1f powder

Post by mdeland »

Yeah, those Brown and Bess locks throw so much spark you could light a wet oak log ! :lol: I use the Meal-D Goex for my SMR in .45 cal for the pan powder which is Black powder dust it is so fine. I knapp the flints from flakes left over from point making. The Keokuk heat treated chert was not supposed to work very well but I prefer it to the dark English flint I tried from Track-of the Wolf. I have never tried French Ember but hear it is pretty good as well.
Point knapping is enjoyable to me and the debetage ( left over chips) are usually large enough to make all the gun flints I could ever use.
A saying in the flint lock muzzle loader community " no caps................. no problem!" :lol: :lol:
mdeland
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Re: 1f powder

Post by mdeland »

One thing I have a question about is, does 1F in a pan collect less or more moisture than would 4F or Meal-D. I believe the Brown and Bess military issue was made to use part of the paper cartridge charge which was 1F if I remember correctly, to fill the pan before loading the bore.
mdeland
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Re: 1f powder

Post by mdeland »

One of the deals about F size in cartridge guns is the more efficient burn rate when ignited by pressure as well as priming powder flash. The powder it self has it's own oxygen supply and does not need space between the grains to enhance it.
The grain size does effect the burn rate though as well as the compression profile of the charge which effects the volume and thus case capacity.
I think 1F should produce less hard fouling if the case is large enough to contain enough powder to get the desired velocity .
George Babits
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Re: 1f powder

Post by George Babits »

Because of its finess (larger surface area) 4Fg is the most hydroscopic granulation of powder. I NEVER use it in the pan of my flintlocks. Generally I use whatever goes in the barrel in the pan. My standard hunting load for my 54 flint Hawken is 100 grains of FFFg and I use the same in the pan. With my Charliville smoothbore I use 2F in the barrel and the pan. Never tried 1F in the pan but I am sure it would be just fine. In the days of flintloack muskets, the military had an extra 10 grains of powder in the paper cartridges for priming the pan.

George
Glen Ring
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Re: 1f powder

Post by Glen Ring »

When i grow up I want a flint lock rifle.
There are those that talk, and those that act. Make a choice.
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