First attempt at casting

Talk with other Shiloh Sharps shooters.

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lmontee
Posts: 54
Joined: Wed Apr 15, 2020 9:43 pm
Location: Silver Springs, NV

Re: First attempt at casting

Post by lmontee »

Also as a side note I also took several folks advice for suggested reading..I have Ruminitions of a Life Long Bullet Caster, by Robert Ballowe , Casting Premium Bullets for the Black Powder Cartridge Rifle, by Paul A. Matthews, Preparation of Black Match Ammunition for Black Powder Cartridge Rifles by Robert Ballowe, and last but not least...the Black Powder Cartridge Reloading Primer, by Steven P. Garbe and Mike Venterino...all handy here so it's not like I'm going in blind. And yes I have read them all at least once and will continue to reference their knowledge 8)
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VenisonRX
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Location: Mayflower, Arkansas

Re: First attempt at casting

Post by VenisonRX »

You’re starting off much better prepared than I did. My first casts look like they came out of my daughters’ play dough molds. It’s just a matter of trying different things and see what works and what doesn’t now. Keep up the good work and I think you’ll be satisfied with your results in fairly short order.
—Tom
DeadEye
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Re: First attempt at casting

Post by DeadEye »

Those photos are about 15 years old and I have learned a few things along the way, thankfully not the hard way. :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll:

Paul
"My heroes have always been cowboys and they still are it seems."
horsefly
Posts: 265
Joined: Mon Jan 05, 2004 8:59 pm
Location: West Texas

Re: First attempt at casting

Post by horsefly »

Good morning;

You're going to have to sort through all the things you have been told and then develop your own technique. Don't take anyone as telling you the gospel that you have to do ... that includes me. Except now!!! Believe me. This is the gospel.

Mostly.

You mentioned your lead temperature ... and that is important ... but that is POT temperature. The most important temperatures are the relationship between mould and lead. Everything you do except heat the pot allows the lead to cool. Move the dipper: lead cools. Wave your dipper around while you wait to pour: it is cooling. Pour: the lead is cooling because you're pouring it into a mould that has already cooled enough for the last casting to solidify. The mould cools to let the solid casting solidify and then it keeps right on cooling until you pour more lead into it.

The real point I want to make is this: the lead is always cooling and it cools more and more with time and environment. Melted lead in the pot is one temperature. How you handle your melt after it leaves the pot determines the temperature of the lead in the (cooling) mould. Be steady and consistent when you handle the lead.

I use a timer to keep my rhythm consistent. I warm the bottom of the (closed) blocks resting on top of the melt and it only takes a couple of castings to warm up and produce good bullets. As others have said, it looks to me like the nose of your bullet is a little cool. There are ways to warm up the bullet nose besides raising the pot temperature.

Good luck. It is greatly satisfying to cast a bunch of good bullets. But remember that your key is temperature management ... not just how hot is the pot.

Y'all be good.

horsefly
Ray Newman
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Location: between No Where & No Place, WA

Re: First attempt at casting

Post by Ray Newman »

This may be of some help:

The 8-Phase Casting Cycle, Part 1 -- http://www.longrangebpcr.com/Part1.htm

The 8-Phase Casting Cycle, Part 2 -- http://www.longrangebpcr.com/Part2.htm

Horsefly -- good to hear from you again!
Grand PooBah
WA ST F. E. S.

In real life may you be the bad ass that you claim to be on social media....
lmontee
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Joined: Wed Apr 15, 2020 9:43 pm
Location: Silver Springs, NV

Re: First attempt at casting

Post by lmontee »

Hello Ray,
Yup I referred to that as well..that's where I got the 15 second wait time from. I'm going to give this a second shot Saturday keeping in mind suggestions made here and see if I can have better results. Will followup later.
thanks
lmontee
Posts: 54
Joined: Wed Apr 15, 2020 9:43 pm
Location: Silver Springs, NV

Re: First attempt at casting

Post by lmontee »

Well...I fired up the pot again today and tried out some of your guys advice. Mainly heated up the mold more and reduced the time I waited for each bullet to cool to maintain mold temps. Also sped my pour up a little.

No more wrinkles or ripples. Also the bullets are heavier than my first batch. After the first 3 coming in between 538 grains to 539 grains, the rest of the 25 that I cast came in between 540.1 to 541.4 grains. Not the plus/minus you guys are talking about but I think with more practice and timing I can reduce that. By the way it is a Steve Brooks 540 grain Creedmoor mold.
Thanks for the previous comments and advice from y'all
Larry
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VenisonRX
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Location: Mayflower, Arkansas

Re: First attempt at casting

Post by VenisonRX »

Congratulations Larry! It’s pretty satisfying stuff. Going to be even more enjoyable when you get your gun and splatter those bullets all over some metal.
—Tom
marlinman93
Posts: 200
Joined: Fri Nov 26, 2004 7:17 pm
Location: Oregon

Re: First attempt at casting

Post by marlinman93 »

One thing I do if I need to stop casting for a few minutes is to leave the last bullet in the mold. It acts as a heat sink to help retain the heat in the mold, so when I restart I don't have to preheat the mold, or drop any culls. Just cut off the sprue, dump the bullet, and start pouring again.
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JonnyV
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Re: First attempt at casting

Post by JonnyV »

There's a definite rhythm to casting, and temp plays a crucial role as well. Keep an eye on that thermometer and make sure the temp doesn't wander off....
flatsguide
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Joined: Mon Jul 30, 2018 3:44 pm

Re: First attempt at casting

Post by flatsguide »

My WAAGE pot is temp controlled by a PID that is easily made. I cast at 815 degrees, use a hot plate to pre heat my mold and ladle. Only need to cast a few bullets ( .45cal. 534 gns.) before the mold is up to temp. After the sprue frosts I count to 13 before I cut the sprue by hand, I used to not have to wear a glove to do that but now getting older, 83, I need a glove. :roll: Waiting that extra 13 seconds insurers a clean cut sprue and the bullet has shrunk enough to fall easily from the mold. Most important is to get into a rhythm, count to yourself or use an old photo darkroom timer from eBay. If a bullet is stubborn and does not want to fall out of the mold easily only use a hardwood stick to tap the mold joint. The mold is a precision tool and will not take abuse, so close the mold gently and the pin and pin hole will not wear out till you are to old to shoot.
Cheers Richard
mike herth
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Location: Buffalo, WY

Re: First attempt at casting

Post by mike herth »

And another question as casting season arrives…
Can you overheat your mold, i.e. warp it, when preheating it prior to casting? I don’t know how hot these hotplates get. I have a cheap one and set it on medium to heat the mold for 10 minutes or so.
DeadEye
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Joined: Wed Jan 31, 2007 3:38 pm
Location: The Flatlands of Canada

Re: First attempt at casting

Post by DeadEye »

Yes you can Mike, don't ask me how I know, please.

Paul
"My heroes have always been cowboys and they still are it seems."
WVsmoke
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Location: West Virginia

Re: First attempt at casting

Post by WVsmoke »

Mike,
I have a cheap Walmart two burner for heating molds and melting lube. One very good improvement is adding a steel plate about 1/4 inch thick and about 10 inch square on each burner. This adds thermal mass, eliminates hot spots, and slows heat transfer to pot or mold. An infrared thermometer is real helpful as well, especially the first time. Check temp often, and when mold gets to 400 degrees or a little higher I start casting.
Allan
lmontee
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Joined: Wed Apr 15, 2020 9:43 pm
Location: Silver Springs, NV

Re: First attempt at casting

Post by lmontee »

Allen,
That's a great suggestion...I happen to have an infrared thermometer that was given to me when I built my wood fired pizza oven.
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