Stock finish

[TimW]

...have had good luck with TruOil. It has never let me down...................

That crap has never FAILED to let me down! Doesn't soak in for sh!t and leaves a gloppy, drippy mess, and yes, I do know what I'm doing with wood finishing.

I use Watco Danish oil on my Garands and it does a fantastic job IMHO.

Tim

[Steve Rhoades]

Tim W,
Are you related to BFD?

[boge]

That crap has never FAILED to let me down! Doesn't soak in for sh!t and leaves a gloppy, drippy mess, and yes, I do know what I'm doing with wood finishing....

That shows that perhaps you don't know what you're doing as you should only put on a very small amount per coat and letting it dry after thoroughly rubbing it in. After each coat dries you have to LIGHTLY polish/buff it down before applying a 2nd coat. I use #0000 steel wool ever so lightly. The 'coats' have to be built up one at a time of course. I have found that five coats are perfect for my needs.

[TimW]

Tim W,
Are you related to BFD?

Nope

That shows that perhaps you don't know what you're doing as you should only put on a very small amount per coat and letting it dry after thoroughly rubbing it in. After each coat dries you have to LIGHTLY polish/buff it down before applying a 2nd coat. I use #0000 steel wool ever so lightly. The 'coats' have to be built up one at a time of course. I have found that five coats are perfect for my needs.

Shows that you make assumptions that aren't correct.

Your method is EXACTLY how I do it.

Not saying it doesn't work for YOU, but my experience has been otherwise.

4-5 coats of Danish OIl and I have a PERFECT (for my tastes)satin finish.

The problem with TruOil is that it does NOT penetrate well at all and simply dries on the surface, didn't matter to me how little I used.

[boge]

...The problem with TruOil is that it does NOT penetrate well at all and simply dries on the surface, didn't matter to me how little I used.

Yes it does as it's merely linseed oil thinned with mineral spirits & added dryers. Wood finishing requires patience.

[TimW]

...The problem with TruOil is that it does NOT penetrate well at all and simply dries on the surface, didn't matter to me how little I used.

Yes it does as it's merely linseed oil thinned with mineral spirits & added dryers. Wood finishing requires patience.

Well, I'll admit I only used it on two stocks years ago. It was a "new" bottle when I bought it and possibly was old. I just know that I'll never use it again as I have what I feel is a better product on hand.

Discussions like this are why I like forums, as you (usually) get all points of view and others experiences.


Tim

[boge]

I am redoing an Uberti carbine stock & forearm and have put on three coats of Truoil since about 4 PM today. I will try & get some photos posted soon. Truoil is actually more varnish than oil if the truth be known. I am simply putting on one thin coat at a time with a cut up T-Shirt as a rag and after drying I use #0000 steel wool lightly before the next coat. So far it's flawless. At least for me, Truoil has always been 'bulletproof'.

[1minute]

I asked the identical question several years ago, as I was considering adding a bit more depth to my rifle's finish. The response from the company was "tung oil."

[Laowho]

Mr. Kidwell's post had me doin a search. When I decided to enhance my standard finish I came across a bowl turner who showed the various finishes he'd applied, one of wh/ was Formby's wh/ surprised me. Lotta talk out there re: whether the various tung oil "finishes" contain any tung oil at all. Seems that Formby's actually does (and others don't).

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread. ... l-question

I used pure tung oil cut by varying degrees throughout the process, but might have a try w/ Formby's too now that I know it actually contains tung oil. (And b/c that bowl turner's end result using it was remarkable.)