dulled wood finish on 1874 Quigley rifle

[Quigley_Up_Over]

If I sent the rifle in, how much would it be to fix the finish?

You really are asking the wrong people here. Call Shiloh. It is pretty obvious that only they can answer your questions to your satisfaction.

I thought this was Shiloh, and I thought Kurt was a Shiloh engineer.

[Lumpy Grits]

Wrong Kurt......
Call Shiloh-Ask for Kirk or Lucinda. They are co-owners.
Looking forward to seeing full pictures of your rifle.
G.

[Quigley_Up_Over]

Wrong Kurt......
Call Shiloh-Ask for Kirk or Lucinda. They are co-owners.
Looking forward to seeing full pictures of your rifle.
G.

Wait, Kurt isn't Kurt?

Now that's...that's funny is what that is!

[Don McDowell]

Kurt owns a lot of Shiloh rifles, but doesn't work for Shiloh
KIRK owns Shiloh...

I agree with Brent, a well worn rifle with honest wear spots has a much better story to tell and is much more interesting than a rifle that looks like it just came off the rack.
But in the case of the spots on your roughrider, or #1 or LRE, ( as rdnck says that's not a Quigley) your best bet would be to call the folks at Shiloh and visit with them about the problem as you see it with the wood.

[Kurt]

I guess I better stop posting in the support section

[Quigley_Up_Over]

I guess I better stop posting in the support section

Nah, you know your stuff. I remember you from years ago.

[Yellowhouse]

A ML builder put me on to this product years ago to touch up a finish (it goes on top of most anything). My 1991 era Shiloh was an entry rifle and I thought the finish could be improved. I went to work with Arrow and came out with a nice finish. It doesn't polymerize without rubbing so its does require some elbow grease. The finish can be brought up to whatever level you want. http://www.arrowwoodfinish.com/

[BFD]

A ML builder put me on to this product years ago to touch up a finish (it goes on top of most anything). My 1991 era Shiloh was an entry rifle and I thought the finish could be improved. I went to work with Arrow and came out with a nice finish. It doesn't polymerize without rubbing so its does require some elbow grease. The finish can be brought up to whatever level you want. http://www.arrowwoodfinish.com/

I've used it also. It is good stuff, but it doesn't set up hard, even with lots of elbow grease. It's perfect for this style of rifle.

[Kurt]

That sounds like pretty good stuff I will have to give it a try. I read the instructions on how to use it and it's just like I do applying a tung oil finish.
TNX. Sam.
Kurt

[BFD]

It mostly is a tung oil.

[Yellowhouse]

Make sure you wipe the stock down with mineral spirits to remove any waxes or oils first.

[Quigley_Up_Over]

I just remembered, it's a Sporter #1, not a Quig.

[Lumpy Grits]

What happened was the chems in the foam of the case reacted to the chems of the wood finish. If you are going to store the rifle in this case. Put the rifle inside one of those silicon sleeves.
If it was my rifle-I would put a coat of either Linseed or Tung oil on. Wipe as much as I could off with a terry cloth towel and let air dry for several days. May need to do it again......
Gary

[Quigley_Up_Over]

What happened was the chems in the foam of the case reacted to the chems of the wood finish. If you are going to store the rifle in this case. Put the rifle inside one of those silicon sleeves.
If it was my rifle-I would put a coat of either Linseed or Tung oil on. Wipe as much as I could off with a terry cloth towel and let air dry for several days. May need to do it again......
Gary

I'm worried about stuff getting on the metal.

If it were any of my other rifles, I'd take it apart. Not sure that's a great idea on this one...

[Lumpy Grits]

The chems in the wood finish vs the foam is the deal.
No need to worry about the metal if you keep it oiled.
G.