Farmingdale 1874 Sharps
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Farmingdale 1874 Sharps
I have a mid 70's Farmingdale Sharps that I recently purchased. I posted a thread over at the Castboolits forum on my Farmingdale 45-70 rifle. I'm hoping that I might be able to get some advice on this rifle here on this site.
First of, I love the rifle. It is a #3 Sporter, mfg in mid 70's (sn 3289), 45-70, bore .450, groove .457, 1:20 twist. The freebore is .375 with a .465 diameter. I have only shot this at an informal session to acquaint myself with recoil and general operation, so I don't know the accuracy potential. I don't ever expect to be a 1000 yard shooter - 600 yards likely the max. I'm experienced at smokeless reloading and with black powder muzzle-loaders.
My responses received at Castboolits have been varied, as to direction to take, and I appreciate their varied advise. I would even entertain using paper patched rounds if required. I suspect that if I could seat the bullet as close to the lands would be best, but the free-bore presents some challenges with this. One of the replies was to use bullets of .460 diameter. However, with these I can't seem to seat the driving band past the chamber mouth and that leaves quite a gap. I have considered re-chambering to 45-90 to reduce the distance to the lands. I am aware that I need to try some different loads to actually see what the rifle is capable of. I am hoping to get some additional direction on the options for loads with this particular firearm.
Any insight that you could provide would be great.
First of, I love the rifle. It is a #3 Sporter, mfg in mid 70's (sn 3289), 45-70, bore .450, groove .457, 1:20 twist. The freebore is .375 with a .465 diameter. I have only shot this at an informal session to acquaint myself with recoil and general operation, so I don't know the accuracy potential. I don't ever expect to be a 1000 yard shooter - 600 yards likely the max. I'm experienced at smokeless reloading and with black powder muzzle-loaders.
My responses received at Castboolits have been varied, as to direction to take, and I appreciate their varied advise. I would even entertain using paper patched rounds if required. I suspect that if I could seat the bullet as close to the lands would be best, but the free-bore presents some challenges with this. One of the replies was to use bullets of .460 diameter. However, with these I can't seem to seat the driving band past the chamber mouth and that leaves quite a gap. I have considered re-chambering to 45-90 to reduce the distance to the lands. I am aware that I need to try some different loads to actually see what the rifle is capable of. I am hoping to get some additional direction on the options for loads with this particular firearm.
Any insight that you could provide would be great.
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Re: Farmingdale 1874 Sharps
calling bobw. This one is yours
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Re: Farmingdale 1874 Sharps
you say that you cannot seat a 0.460 bullet past the chamber neck, yet the freebore is 0.465.
could you explain this more clearly to a simpleton.
normally it is a good starting point to fill the fired case neck with bullet, and if freebore exists, fill that too with correct diameter bullet.
either the 45/100/2.4 or the 45/100/2.6 sharps cartridges might be more appropriate chamberings for that rifle than the 45/90 which is a Winchester express cartridge meant for light bullets.
keep safe,
bruce.
could you explain this more clearly to a simpleton.
normally it is a good starting point to fill the fired case neck with bullet, and if freebore exists, fill that too with correct diameter bullet.
either the 45/100/2.4 or the 45/100/2.6 sharps cartridges might be more appropriate chamberings for that rifle than the 45/90 which is a Winchester express cartridge meant for light bullets.
keep safe,
bruce.
ventum est amicus meus
- Don McDowell
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Re: Farmingdale 1874 Sharps
Bruce you do realize the 45-90 winchester uses the 2.4 inch case?
AKA Donny Ray Rockslinger
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Re: Farmingdale 1874 Sharps
Any insight that you could provide would be great.[/quote]
Thanks Brent
I am a firm believer of fixing problems as cheap as possible. 1st thing I'd do is buy 100 cast paper patch bullets 1 in 20 or harder alloy at .449-.450" diameter and patch them with 9lb onionskin paper. Yes they will need to be seated out to the lands. 450-500 gr range. You will need to use 2 card wads, 1 on each side of a grease cookie 3/16" thickness (help prevent blow by) and keep fouling moist. Determine the OAL length of the cart seated to the lands ,adj powder and compression as needed. If you can't get it to shoot this way rechamber to 45-2.6" that will clean out the over bore and have them put a 7 degree leade in at the same time. Last resort will be a re barrel job $700 +. ???????????????
A lot of guns have a little freebore so the owners can seat one lube groove out for more case capacity, it works for them ,it's the overbored dimension that craps on your potential accuracy.. bobw
Thanks Brent
I am a firm believer of fixing problems as cheap as possible. 1st thing I'd do is buy 100 cast paper patch bullets 1 in 20 or harder alloy at .449-.450" diameter and patch them with 9lb onionskin paper. Yes they will need to be seated out to the lands. 450-500 gr range. You will need to use 2 card wads, 1 on each side of a grease cookie 3/16" thickness (help prevent blow by) and keep fouling moist. Determine the OAL length of the cart seated to the lands ,adj powder and compression as needed. If you can't get it to shoot this way rechamber to 45-2.6" that will clean out the over bore and have them put a 7 degree leade in at the same time. Last resort will be a re barrel job $700 +. ???????????????
A lot of guns have a little freebore so the owners can seat one lube groove out for more case capacity, it works for them ,it's the overbored dimension that craps on your potential accuracy.. bobw
bobw
- Don McDowell
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Re: Farmingdale 1874 Sharps
First thing you may want to do is measure the nose diameter of your bullet. With that long freebore you should be able to seat that bullet out 1 or 2 lube grooves, unless the nose ahead of the driving band is larger than your bore diameter. Also go into that barrel and do some serious lead mining, you may have lead build up in the throat.
Once you have that sorted out, take a 45-90 case and start trimming it down until it chambers freely, the case length will likely come out at 2.25.Trimming cases to 2.25 has been the fix on 2 rifles for me.
In the end rechambering might be the easiest/best fix, but that needs to be done by a qualified gunsmith that will do a proper chamber cast to see which longer chamber will , if possible, will clean that old chamber up.
Once you have that sorted out, take a 45-90 case and start trimming it down until it chambers freely, the case length will likely come out at 2.25.Trimming cases to 2.25 has been the fix on 2 rifles for me.
In the end rechambering might be the easiest/best fix, but that needs to be done by a qualified gunsmith that will do a proper chamber cast to see which longer chamber will , if possible, will clean that old chamber up.
AKA Donny Ray Rockslinger
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Re: Farmingdale 1874 Sharps
It seems as though I am the simpleton. The .465 measurement is taken from my lead impact impression of the chamber, free-bore and lead. When I either drop a bullet into a chamber (rifle vertically secured in a vise) or try to seat a cartridge with an extended seated bullet, either will stop at the chamber mouth. Remeasuring the impression doesn't show damage to this area. I am likewise mystified.
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Re: Farmingdale 1874 Sharps
Don: Thanks for your insight. You pose some workable tasks to pursue. Does anyone have a 45-90 case or two that I could buy? Keith
- Don McDowell
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Re: Farmingdale 1874 Sharps
Stoneke, a chamber cast using cerrosafe is the only way to get a true measurement.
AKA Donny Ray Rockslinger
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Re: Farmingdale 1874 Sharps
Looking down the road, maybe without necessity, but - any suggestions for a good gunsmith/machinist to rechamber this rifle. Keith
- Don McDowell
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Re: Farmingdale 1874 Sharps
You might want to call Shiloh and see what they suggest.
AKA Donny Ray Rockslinger