New to Black powder reloading

Discussions of powders, bullets and loading information.

Moderators: Kirk, Lucinda

Post Reply
barrowsr
Posts: 9
Joined: Tue Nov 18, 2003 10:00 am
Location: Buckner, MO

New to Black powder reloading

Post by barrowsr »

First I must say that this site provides a wealth of information - thanks to all who contribute. Can anyone tell me the pros and cons of using wheel weights for rifle bullet casting? My 40-65 arrives today and I would like to use nickel plated brass. Are there any problems with necking down 45-70 nickel cases and will the standard 40-65 dies accomplish this? Which brand and type of die sets would you all recomend?

Thanks,

Robin
Semi Conductor
Sass # 51020
User avatar
Lee Stone
Posts: 2817
Joined: Tue Jan 07, 2003 2:27 pm
Location: Lacombe, Louisiana, USA
Contact:

I

Post by Lee Stone »

barrowsr

The only problem I have heard of in regard to nickeled brass is that case life is shorter. But since I have only used regular brass this is only hearsay.

I do not use wheel weights because I do not know what the composition will be. A lot of wheel weights have antimony as a hardening agent and I personally do not want antimony in my alloy. I like to shoot 30 to 1 lead to tin alloy. Since I like to know exactly what them composition of my alloy is, I buy pure lead from a source who will certify it is pure (well, as pure as the smelters can get it) and my pure tin the same way.
Lee Stone
Gunny
Posts: 388
Joined: Sun Dec 22, 2002 5:41 pm
Location: California

Post by Gunny »

Robin,

Mr Stone has it just about right, well completely right actually. The nickle cases will work just fine, they do have a somewhat shorter case life as they are harder than brass cases and in time you may see some split necks. But even with that they will reload many, many times. Your 40-65 dies will form the 45-70 cases down to 40-65 just fine. Do it in a couble of pass's and don't get in a hurry.

The wheel weights will make and cast into bullets. However you then will have a bullet of unknown hardness, but on the hard side for sure. These bullets will also age harden, this is a property of the antimony and can not be helped it will happen. But antimony is not the worst stuff in the wheel weights. There also can be arsenic, zinc, and severeal other compounds in there makeup. They are designed to be heavy for tire balancing and these compounds are harmless in that roll. However when you cast them into bullets a function they where not designed for, you the caster are going to have to deal with all of that stuff in there makeup. To make things even worse wheel weights have no standared as to there makeup. One co may put X Y and Z into there lead weights and the next batch from another co will have A H and W in there's, there just is no standared. Many, many and I do many shooters are using wheel weights with good results, so they have learned to deal with all of these varibles, so it can be done. However you as a new reloader of BP and probably new to casting as well, will be better served by staying with a known alloy for now. After you have aquired some experiance casting these big ole bullets maybe then you could try wheel weights sometime in the future. Good Luck

Gunny
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in one pretty and well preserved piece, but to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, worn out and defiantly shouting "WOW, what a ride!"
8iowa
Posts: 187
Joined: Mon Apr 07, 2003 10:53 am
Location: Gainesville, FL and Michigan's UP

Post by 8iowa »

I've been loading amunition for 30 years but have found that black powder cartridges were a whole new learning curve. I also load 40 caliber, 40-70 SS.

Since I had never casted bullets, my first loads were with Lyman's 400 gr Snover which I purchased from Midway. I now have a complete casting setup and am molding this bullet. I have a new RCBS bullet mold on order as I'm concerned that the Snover doesn't hold enough lubricant. My first attempts were with lead of unknown composition and the results were terrible. I now buy 30-1 alloy. I also had to purchase a lubrasizer and the proper die and top punch. I use SPG lube. The lubrasizer shares the same spot on my bench as the case trimmer.

I have found that it takes five dies to load a cartridge, FL sizer, neck expander, powder compression die, bullet seater, and taper crimp die. I love my RCBS Rockchucker, but I got awfully tired of screwing dies in and out of this single stage press. This often required getting them adjusted properly all over again. Reluctantly, I took my Rockchucker off the bench and installed a new Lyman Mag II turret press in it's place. The turret has six places so I can also install my neck sizing die next to the FL die and use either one as the occasion requires.

I have now loaded 40 new cartridges on the turret press and I can highly recommend this type of setup. Once the dies are properly adjusted they stay that way. I plan to purchase an additional turret head so that I can load 45-70.

To throw my charges, I have a Lyman 55 black powder measure with the two foot drop tube. It is very consistent. I then place a Walters wad over the powder and then put the case in the press and compress the charge about .25 inches. You need to do the math carefully to compress just enough for the bullet to be gently seated on the wad at just the right OAL. I'll be glad to answer any questions if you care to email me.
Post Reply