tang sight trick needed

[kenny s]

After receiving the new Shiloh 74, and I put on an MVA tang....works great. sighted in.
BUT.
because the tang was not straight, I had to shim the rear and I'd like to make it more permanent.
I don't want to mess up the Bone hardening colors, and in the past I've used Epoxy, first putting on
car wax so it will not stick to the tang but forms a tough base for the tang sight.

Any other tricks? I'm thinking of putting a piece of wax paper between the two , let it set and then removing the paper.

must be a better way without filing off the base in a file and try situation a little at a time.

Automotive Epoxy? etc. Ken

[Lumpy Grits]

Straight as in side to side, or front to back?
Gary

[kenny s]

side to side Gary...
it's tight and shooting well at 100 yds. but I'd like the tang sight to be firm on the rifle tang. and straight.
I've used epoxy as a filler in the past and it works, but I'm wondering if there is a better trick. ken

[mdeland]

I always fit the underside of the sight base curve to bring the staff to top dead center. If you don't have a mill and fly cutter it can be done in a vice over a mandrel and sand paper with the same OD curve as the top tang of your rifle. I have done it both ways and can testify they both work perfectly.
You have to change the ID curve and position of the sight base to match the upper tang and hole placement. This usually entails moving the ID radial curve to one side or the other of the base. This will laterally raise or lower the base, mate it up with the tang radius and tilt the staff to one side or the other to Top Dead Center and get rid of any gaps between the base and the tang.
I really can't stand seeing sight bases shimmed either, especially on a rifle that is other wise perfectly fit and finished.

[Lumpy Grits]

Go and buy a set of cheap steel feeler gauges and cut & trim the gauge stock to fit the length of the sights base.
That should be about 1/8" wide and however long the base is.
Do not 'stack' shims. Just use one......

G.

[Lumpy Grits]

Kenny s, can you post a picture or two so I can be sure we are on the same 'page'?
G.

[firefighter1990]

On my Hartford 50-2.5" I had the same dilemma. I'm not a big fan of shims and wanted something permanent as well. I reshaped the contour as noted above until my sight staff was dead plumb on the X, Y, and Z axis. I then epoxy bedded that sight base to that rifle, same as I do with my precision rifles and their scope bases. My go-to release agent is Kiwi's shoe polish. My epoxy is devcon plastic steel. I only trade sight staffs between rifles so once a globe sight and rear base are committed to a rifle; they stay there unless something major calls for them to be moved, which hasn't happened yet.

[kenny s]

I like the plastic steel idea, rather than the move fluid epoxy.
I'll try that. I use car wax for the release putting plenty on the screws and holes..

thanks..Ken

[Lumpy Grits]

On my Hartford 50-2.5" I had the same dilemma. I'm not a big fan of shims and wanted something permanent as well. I reshaped the contour as noted above until my sight staff was dead plumb on the X, Y, and Z axis. I then epoxy bedded that sight base to that rifle, same as I do with my precision rifles and their scope bases. My go-to release agent is Kiwi's shoe polish. My epoxy is devcon plastic steel. I only trade sight staffs between rifles so once a globe sight and rear base are committed to a rifle; they stay there unless something major calls for them to be moved, which hasn't happened yet.

You are better served for true long range shooting, with w 2*-3* forward lean(towards muzzle)of the sight's staff.
G.

[firefighter1990]

Oh yeah! Good point, Thanks Lumpy.

I can't measure that precise of plumb but what I usually do is; once I find that the bore is dead level with the use of an indicating rod (same as what machinist use to square a barrel in a lathe) I set the base spring so that it's about level with a slight forward lean. I honestly can't tell you what degree that is though. I learned how to do this the hard way first-That is by not leaning it forward and my sight picture was distorted because I wasn't looking through the barrel of the rear aperture straight.

[Lumpy Grits]

Raise the muzzle 2*, and set the staff 'square'.
A bubble protractor is really handy for this.
G.

[kenny s]

OK, did it.
small level on the barrel, another on the flat part of the staff. got them both to agree in plumb,
covered the gun tang with Turtle car wax, let it dry, put it in the screw holes, on the screws, under the hole for the spring and the spring screw. don't go light here....don't want it to lock in place. a small brush works well

then used epoxy weld....long set type. don't use the 5 min type, not strong and not enough working time.
it comes out dark gray....

put a little under the tang sight base, avoiding the screw holes. put on the sight, leveled with a Small piece of hammered lead the length of the tang sight base to get it to tilt the right way.
Tightened everything down so the two levels are perfectly in plumb.
cleaned, trimmed the lead,

it will be on there for life... it can be removed if necessary, but won't...will NOT move and Cannot be seen....

done and done..Ken

[Lumpy Grits]

Kenny-Does your front sight have a bubble level?
If so-you 'plum' the rear sight to that bubble.
PLZ post up pictures of the work you just did.
G.

[rdnck]

Bubba is alive and well. rdnck.

[rdnck]

Bubba is alive and well. rdnck.