Lead hardness for PP bullets.

[CaptnJack]

Howdy, all.
I have over 300 lbs of pure led in 30lb ingots I collected years ago. I will be shooting a 540 gr PP bullet in my 45-110. Just curious about the PP shooters, what led hardness seems to work and shoot the best. I was looking at 20-1 and it there anything extra you might add besides led and tin? Or other things I might want to look at.
Thanks.

[bruce m]

jack,
anything between 12:1 and 20:1.
softer for hunting and possibly harder for targets.
the odg long range shooters used as hard as 11;1, while a lot of factory mid range and hunting ammo was loaded 20:1.
you will have to experiment to see what works best for you.
keep safe,
bruce.

[Don McDowell]

A lot depends on the nose shape. The "money" bullet noses tend to slump a bit if softer than 16-1, the more traditional style bullets will do alright with 20-1. But just to keep things simple I've been casting most everything from 16-1

[Orville]

Pure lead will work just fine in the bullet with a short nose and flat tip, hunting bullet like the original sharps bullets

[Orville]

Pure lead will work just fine in the bullet with a short nose and flat tip, hunting bullet like the original sharps bullets

[kenny s]

I shoot a 40 70 SS with 64 1 1/2 OE and a 420 grain custom PP bullet .392 with 55 W 8 pound paper
I have tried both 1/16 and 1/20.
Both print under 2 inches at 100 yards, (my longest range here in FL)

I've tried 8 pound and 9 pound paper and still no difference.

Ken

[Distant Thunder]

Assuming you're shooting targets of some sort, hunting is a different game.

I would advise you start with 16:1 hardness (11 BHN) and work out the details of casting, patching, loading, and shooting paper patched bullets, including fouling control. Then after you have that all working for you and you feel a need to experiment go ahead, but you'll probably just end up back at 16:1 anyway. Save yourself some time and frustration and start with 16:1. It can be a long way around that circle, at least it was for me (about 3-4 years). 16:1 will not hurt anything.

There are many ways to get to 16:1 hardness, lead:tin is one of them.

If hunting, then a blunt nose bullet and 20:1 or as soft as will shoot minute of critter for you will work well.

DT

[Distant Thunder]

As far as accuracy goals, a good target load with paper patched bullets should produce 10-shot groups of 3+ inches or less at 200 yards (1 1/2 MOA). I never had a load/bullet that shot well at 200 that did not work for me out to 1000 yards, some just worked better than others. For BPTR I consider 100 yards groups as next to worthless for determining down range accuracy of and load/bullet.

DT

[Dennis Armistead]

Anneal your brass, 1F or 1.5F powder, 16-1 lead bullet, 150M primer, .250 compression good place to start.
Dennis

[sass2924]

There are many ways to get to 16:1 hardness, lead:tin is one of them.



DT

Would 16:1, 11 bnh, work the same if using pure lead and tin vs lead, tin and antimony?

[Clarence]

16:1 refers to lead/tin. Most people use lead/tin mixtures. Some choose to add antimony; I know it will work; some very good shooters use it. Because the composition of wheelweights has changed over the years, the most predictable way to use antimony is to have a supply of linotype.

Using the lead/tin/antimony alloy just adds one more variable to an equation that already has quite a few. I'd suggest starting with a lead/tin alloy, working up a good load (bullet, lube, powder, seating depth, compression, primer, wad type and thickness, neck tension (or lack of same), fouling control are all significant variables), and then experimenting with the other alloy if/when you have the time, energy, itch.

Clarence