Setting up to reload 40-65, what dies would you suggest?

[Trigger1212]

Gents,

Well we are now into the homestretch on spec'ing the 1877 build. Have decided on 40-65 with a 14" twist. Have no reloading for the 40-65 so looking for some input.

1. What brand dies? I'm personally partial to Redding.

2. Neck size only, or should I get FL sizer AND neck sizer dies? Will be shooting greasers to start out anyway.

3. To get a sliiiiiight crimp (for hunting) would you suggest just using the FL die w/o the stem in to get a very light taper crimp?

4. Just use BACO for expander/compression dies? Any other suggestion?

5. Will probably get Redding completion seater dies.

Thanks!

PS. Will be purchasing new Starline brass and annealing it before first use.

Wade

[Don McDowell]

Haven't used Redding dies in the 40-65, but do like them in the other cartridges I have sets for. The Lyman M die set works well for the 40-65's that live here.
A compression die from BACO is a must have whether or not you size the cases after fireforming.

[beltfed]

Personally, for my 40-65 I form the brass with Redding FL die from 45-70s( Like RP, but using WW now for
slightly greater case capacity),( I also have a Lyman set. The M die in it is very useful:
I use the M expanding die from my LYman dieset to do the expanding.
Then, once I have fire formed the brass, I ONLY run the M die thru the brass
to "catch" any brass that may have had a ding on the case mouth from handling or
from cleaning them in tumbler with ceramic media.
Since you are going to use 40-65 Starline, no need to FL size.
Just anneal, then run an M die into the neck to make sure it is round,
The M die also has a step on the plug to make sure of a 0.411-.412 mouth
for easy SLIP FIT hand seating of bullets.
Of course for hunting loads, a person could neck size/expand to hold the ctg together better
beltfed/arnie

[Don McDowell]

I have also used the M die to compress the powder.

[gunlaker]

I've got a couple of Shiloh Sharps rifles in .40-65. I like the RCBS dies made specifically for the Shiloh .40-65 chamber.

I've been either slip fitting or using a Redding Competition Seater to seat bullets. Both work extremely well, but I like to experiment and have now got the inline seater setup from Shiloh. I haven't tried that yet.

You will want a custom expander or two from Buffalo Arms. I use a 0.408" expander for a 0.409" bullet most of the time. And a BACO powder compression die of course.

Chris.

[art ruggiero]

i prefer to resize 45/70 brass as the 40/65 starline usually is a little short art

[kenny s]

I shoot a Sharps 40 70 SS, original, ez to shoot and load,
brass IS around and I use the 30 40 Craig. it works very well, and I like the rounded rim which makes it ez to
use in the Sharps dropping block.
I know the more 'modern' 40 65 is a 45 70 base case, but not for me....
after all, we shoot 'antique' guns...right?
just sayin' Ken

[Trigger1212]

Gents

Thanks for the feedback, should get me going in the right direction. Feel silly going with the 40-65 as I have everything in need to hit the ground running in 45-70.

But have never heard anything bad about the 40-65 and I think it will suit my needs well going forward. Just annoying having to spend all that $$ to gear up for another cartridge.

Kenny, I did give some serious thought to the 40-70SS. That is one sexy looking round, no question! I feel the same way about the .257 Weatherby magnum, just looks cool and mean setting there!

Not too long ago there was quite a thread discussion on the 40-70SS. It seems like the overall general feeling is that it was a finicky round to get shooting well. No experience with it myself but sure looks like it should be a straight ahead round to load. If I was to hazard a guess I’d say the limiting factor on that round is the brass. To many varieties with varying levels of quality. If someone like Starling would make a batch I bet you would see some more consistent results by the average user.

Art, I’ve heard a lot of people say Starline is generally a bit short and it generally true. I’ve got some Starline brass that is a bit short but that was my fault. When I started this BP loading journey I bought a bunch of 45-70 brass and the first thing I did was trim it all to min spec just like I would do with any of my CF smokeless rounds. Shortly after that I found this forum and realized I had made a big mistake, Doh!

So I will probably be getting a case stretcher tool to correct that brass for my roller chamber and will use the tool to do the same thing for my 40-65 brass. I like my headstamps to match the chamfering, even if I have to spend a little to get it that way!

Cheers!

Wade

[gunlaker]

Wade if you form your own .40-65 from .45-70 cases you will never need a stretcher. You also won't need anything other than a .40-65 sizer die to form the cases. In my Shiloh .40-65's I have to trim a lot off of the Remington .45-70 cases after they have been sized & fire formed.

If you are set up for the .45-70 it will be easy to get the .40-65 up and running.

Chris.

[rgchristensen]

Why do people think that annealing cases "improves" them? Next thing you know, you will be doing regular trimming because of stretching of the softened cases. As I posted on the previous topic, I have a batch of 40-65's with ca 60 rd thru each ctg case, with no case failures. If you NEED to anneal cases, you are working them too much.

CHRIS
RGChristensen

[ChrisF]

I use all Redding dies with good results