Lead for PP Bullets

[Tuscarora]

More education please. I have seen many places now that the seeming preference for PPB casting alloy is 1-16. While there are exceptions to this, I see this mix most commonly used as opposed to the the softer alloys. Yet, there are also available swaged PPB's of pure lead which would have a lower BHN than the alloys. Casters of GG bullets seem to be up and down the scale with their choice of alloys, but not the PP crowd. So why is this? If we are looking for bump-up of bullet diameter with a bore diameter patched bullet, wouldn't as soft as possible be the standard of choice? Does this have to do with those casting their PPB's looking for good fill out in their casting? Thanks!

[Don McDowell]

It''s more about accuracy. 16-1 holds the nose better on long pointed bullets. Some nose styles work well with 20-1. This "bump up " thing isn't much to worry about as even bullets as hard as 10-1 will engrave the rifling.

[MikeT]

Tuscarora,
The alloy of the bullet has a lot to do with;
- how long the unsupported nose of the bullet is;
the nose configuration is dependent on the bullets use, ie. hunting, midrange, or long range.
- how "fast" a powder are you using;
1Fg powder will start the bullet moving softer that 3Fg powder.
- and the wad material under the bullet;
soft like a cork wad or hard like a plastic wad.

In my particular case; I shot a money bullet for many years, cast 20:1.
I load 82.5 grains of Swiss Fg in the case with two cork wads [0.090" each] under the PP bullet.
That is my 1000 yard load in my 45-70. I tried 18:1 & 16:1 alloys, but they did not shoot better then 20:1 so why waste the tin.

Keep on hav'n fun!
MikeT

[Coltsmoke]

Maybe Kurt will post the pics. of his recovered snow bank bullets in different alloys and you will fully understand after seeing that.

[ian45662]

Here are some 14:1 money bullets we shot into the pool a few days ago. I was a little surprised to see how much they are bumping up

[bobw]

Yup too all that ,if it works for you that is what you do. Personally I don't shoot any much harder than 1 in 30 and use 1-40 to 1 - 60 more often than not. I shoot 1 Fg and don't use needle nose bullets that slump. Bobw

[MikeT]

bobw,
I am thinking that you are too practical. Reloading must be more fun when there are problems to be solved.

Keep on hav'n fun!
MikeT

[BFD]

bobw,
I am thinking that you are too practical. Reloading must be more fun when there are problems to be solved.

Keep on hav'n fun!
MikeT

Three cheers for Mike! You understand what this game is about! Load development is never done.

[BFD]

bobw,
I am thinking that you are too practical. Reloading must be more fun when there are problems to be solved.

Keep on hav'n fun!
MikeT

Three cheers for Mike! You understand what this game is about! Load development is never done.

[martinibelgian]

Ditto here, still shooting that 32-20 and determined in getting those PP bullets to work... I'll get there - eventually! For the moment at around 2.4 MOA including the barrel fouler. Load development never ends!
Same with the 45-70, back out of the cabinet and retrying greasers with that one, an old-style CBE bullet. Won last 300m match with it, so must be doing something good...

[bpcr shooter]

with the 3 DDPP bullets we load for ALL are cast from 16+1, swiss 1.5, .060 poly wads, .050ish compression, fed 210M, and they will shoot WAY better than I can hold.
45-100..108.5gr
40-82.. 86.5gr
44-100.. 104.5gr
45-70....next in line for DDPP.

[beltfed]

the lead alloy that has worked well for me is:
9+1 COWW/Lino
Est: 94.5% lead
4.5% Antimony
1% tin
Definitely no slumping of Elliptical noses of my DDEPPand Elliptical Minigroove bullets.
Kurt's snow shooting of some of them showed no shortening.
beltfed/arnie

[bobw]

bobw,
I am thinking that you are too practical. Reloading must be more fun when there are problems to be solved.

Keep on hav'n fun!
MikeT

Mike when you find a load that works and gives you the results you want, do you throw it away? I don't , I use it, and the extra money to make hard alloy is spent on the next rifle or more cases or more powder or better sights and not become a member of the mold of the month club. Spending more dollars on tin to shoot needle nosed bullets is not part of my plan, but if you want to , go right ahead. I will applaud your success. You know what I would really like to do is find some original molds in good working condition and cast with them to use what the old dead guys had to work with and see what the potentials were. It is basically a desire to be able to try the original stuff as close to it as I can get. Bobw

[Don McDowell]

40 cents a pound difference between 16-1 and 30-1 isn't going to buy much powder or brass... But it might make the difference between being able to shoot consistent groups..
Best alloy is dependent on the bullet design, and velocity.

[bruce m]

Here are some 14:1 money bullets we shot into the pool a few days ago. I was a little surprised to see how much they are bumping up

ian,
i am not surprised.
i happily shoot 12: 1 for target shooting by choice.
if those bullets were mine i would use a longer patch, as there is exposed alloy with rifling marks on it.
potential leading.
as a rule of thumb, study the confetti to see if the patch is too long, and study the bullet to see if it is too short.
i have found that bullets breech seated with an airgap do not need the length of patch that fixed ammo with the bullet on a wad does.
some guys like kenny w short patch successfully, but they use sophisticated wad stacks that may well reduce setback a little.
i just use a single wad, usually 0.060, of veg or ldpe, which ever shoots best.
bruce.