1st try with PPB

[mongo40]

Was finally able to get out yesterday and try shooting some PPB out of my Shiloh 45-70 LRE, there were two different Bullets that Matt (bpcr shooter) had sent me to try, one was a DD the other a straight wall, I'm not experienced enough to tell the difference in how they preformed, they both shot good, over a load of 80gr 2F Goex 75gr and 70grs of the same, filled from a long drop tube I made from an old arrow, a .060 card wad on top, the only compression I did was to make sure the card was level so bullet would sit flush on top, both bullets weighted 500gr. and of course they both had slightly different points of impacts. I only shot them from 100yrds at a six inch target, as I wanted to check consistency of the load and bullets, not my shooting ability. I will say the majority all went into the target, had a couple of flyers that were just outside but I'm sure that was me not the load. I first shot three of my greasers just to make sure my zero was good and they were a nice group with the last being dead center in the bullseye, so I know those shoot well and if I ever hunt with this that's probably what I'll use, I then cleaned barrel good and started with the PPBs, I didn't get any in the bullseye but they were all on target, biggest observation for me is I wiped after each shot and the fouling in the barrel was a lot less before I wiped with the PPB than with my greasers and it was easier to run a patch down the barrel. When I look down the barrel after firing a GGB it looks fuzzy down through there, after the PPB it just had a matte appearance and wiping patches went through the barrel a lot easier. I also like the fact that I can get so much powder under the bullet as opposed to my GGBs. I could easily get 81 to 82 grains in there (more if I compressed it) but stuck with 80, then just because I loaded some at 70 and 75. No big difference in shots other the POI, which I'm sure would be a lot more exaggerated once I get to 300yrds and farther, Which I plan to do later this week just to try it out and see. So basically I did like shooting them over the GGB and now I just need to decide on a bullet and mold which at this point I'd be happy with either styled bullet. Thanks again bpcr shooter (Matt), just gives me another reason to go shoot, like I need one. Also it was a perfect Sunday afternoon for shooting, cool weather and no wind at all which is strange for SW Okla.
I should have took a pic of target!
Chris W.

PPB.jpg

MyShiloh.jpg

MyShiloh2.jpg

[kwilliams]

Chris
It looks like your loaded rounds have a fairly large crimp? Probably not a way to go with paper as you may cut the wrap as the bullet leaves the case.
kw

[mongo40]

Just the light, I've already discussed this with Matt, but I don't have the proper taper crimp I need but its supposed to be here Wednesday, so what I did was remove the bulled seater from my die and run the shell up in it and put just enough crimp to snug up on the bullet, still loose and can easily spin bullet with fingers, and I chamfered the inside of the case so it wouldn't hang on the paper. But hey thanks for being so observant and good catch
Chris W.

[bobw]

Load the ppb round with everything except the bullet.then run the cases up into a 45 colt size die enough so it will hold your ppb. Then finger seat the ppb. Some of the taper crimp dies aren't tight enough. Bobw

[mongo40]

Wished I'd thought of the colt die trick yesterday, thanks I'll give that a try. That should be just the ticket!
Chris W.

[bobw]

You just keep adj down till you got enough tension. Your inside case mouth needs a vld chamfer if you have one. Bobw

[Trusty Dog]

Chris, did I see that correctly, you are only using a .060 wad between the powder and the bullet, no lube wad or another ..030? How deep is your bullet, 150 thousands? You are getting a lot of powder in that case. I agree with you, cleaning a PP barrel is much easier than GG. Also, recoil is lighter with PP than with GG. Your bullets look great but I also noticed what appears to be excessive crimp. Your on the right track. Jon

[ian45662]

If you can get your hands on a neck sizing die that takes bushings. That’s what I use and it works great. I will compress my wad about .080 below the mouth of the case and then use this bushing die to only size down .080 of the case. I can adjust neck tension by switching out bushings. After sizing I can slip a projectile into the case and we are off to the races. Mecham made mine but I don’t think he is making stuff anymore. CH4D makes a bushing die. Also if your able to get your hands on any Swiss 1.5 and or 2F give that a whirl as well. One last thing.... Try annealing your brass before you prime any cleaned cases. My accuracy seems to fall off if I don’t anneal after each firing. I assume that is because I am working the mouth of the brass so much.

[SSShooter]

If you can get your hands on a neck sizing die that takes bushings. That’s what I use and it works great.

+1 - CH4D offers one and the large size neck bushings needed for same. They generally stock the bushings in 0.001" increments and will custom make whatever you request. If you use different brands of brass you will likely want more than one size.

[mongo40]

What is CH4D?

[ian45662]

They make reloading dies. Here is a link to their bushing dies. https://www.ch4d.com/products/dies/sizing/lbns

[Coltsmoke]

Chris buy a cheap Lyman Taper Crimp die, cut 1/2" off the bottom of the die. Then you can adjust the die to do what you want it to do. That's all you need.

[mongo40]

Why trim a half inch of the bottom of the tapper crimp die?

[MikeT]

mongo,
Remember what bobw stated? "Some of the taper crimp dies aren't tight enough", so take material off of the bottom
to be able to adjust the taper crimp die down to a snug but not tight fit.

Keep on hav'n fun!
MikeT

[mongo40]

Right I'm just trying to understand why you need to trim it I guess it allows you to run the case farther up in the obviously, I'm also guessing that sticking it farther in makes it tighter right???