Shiloh Rifle Forums

I’m currently restoring a M1866 Allin trapdoor as much as I can. Everything looks sound in it. Should I proof it a couple of times before using it as a shooter? Just how do go about making the proof rounds in .50-70 with its fixed capacity?

Personally, I would only shoot black powder in an old original gun.
If a competent gunsmith looks it over for "issues" and pronounces it sound,
there should be no need for proof charges.

Keep on hav'n fun!
MikeT

MikeT wrote: ↑Wed Feb 24, 2021 2:11 pm Personally, I would only shoot black powder in an old original gun.
If a competent gunsmith looks it over for "issues" and pronounces it sound,
there should be no need for proof charges.

Keep on hav'n fun!
MikeT

I should have mentioned my intent to only use BP. Finding a competent gunsmith in my area is not easy. Last one I visited, I knew more about this than he did. Thus my desire to proof it from a safe distance.

My way of "testing" or proofing an old rifle that I have questions about is to load up 3 or so "standard rounds" for the rifle. By standard I would say 70 grains of FFg and a 450 grain bullet for the military 50-70. Then get an old tyre, put the butt inside one side and tie the front end of the rifle down to the opposit side of the tyre. Get a 25 or 30 foot piece of small diameter cord (parachute cord) and tie one end to the trigger. I seem to recall that the old Dixie catelogs showed this somewhere in the back if you need a picture. Load it up pointed in a safe direction, duck behind something and give the cord a yank. If the rifle doesn't come apart on the first round, give the brass a really critical study to look for problems. If the brass looks good, just to be sure, do the same with a couple more rounds. If all holds together you are probably good to go.

Liability suits being what they are, you do this at your own risk. I accept no responsibility for anything I just said!

George

Could do a chamber cast too and check the measurements first.