Shiloh Rifle Forums

Here are a couple of pics of the deer I shot
this season with my #3 in .50 1 3/4. 473 ppb, 70gr 1.5 swiss.

This one I shot while hunting with my two boys
80 yard shot then he ran into a slough with about
3 feet of water in it and died. Really had a time getting
him out.
[img][img]http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o304 ... 5228_2.jpg[/img][/img]

This one I shot while hunting in Canada. I killed a deer
about 200 yards from this spot in 2006. Lots of bucks running
around that clearing during the rut. 125 yard shot, which is
the longest shot I ever taken in that area. Most shots are around
30-50 yards, about as far as one can see.
[img][img]http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o304 ... 0012_2.jpg[/img][/img]

This is a picture of my rifle case, loading tools and related stuff.
The case isn't all the way done yet and have a few more tools to
add. I fix up all my loads with the original style tools.
[img][img]http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o304 ... 2156_2.jpg[/img][/img]

I'm not much of a regular poster but hunting with the Shiloh's
really cranks me up and I enjoy seeing others hunting experiences
with these rifles.

Adios

G. Larson

Great looking bucks G Larson and a nice looking 74 also.Enjoyed you hunt photos of the past also. bobw

Great looking Bucks, out standing.
I also like your rifle. I wish my .44 had a single trigger. The right way to go for a hunting rifle.

Kurt

By the way! looks like you have some of Orville's loading tools?
And tell me about the mould, is that a Sharps? MFG? or a copy?
Kurt

Real nice bucks. Definately a good season for you. The configuration of the left side of the Canadian deer's rack resembles a muledeer. Very nice rifle box and accoutrements too. Congratulations.

Whats the trick for molding with short metal handles? Be quick and tough?
I've got a little mold here even smaller than yours and wondered how in the world they held onto them, even with gloves, to manipulate a good cast. MD

Thanks for the comments. As far as the rifle goes it was my
idea of the perfect (for me) hunting sharps. The single trigger
came after 4 or 5 years of hunting with DST's. I never have liked them on a hunting rifle. The final straw was
after I shot before my sights were lined up on a buck because
my fingers were so frozen I couldn't feel the trigger and shot the
ground between the deer and myself. I still got the deer with the
second shot but had to actually look at my finger to make sure it
was outside the trigger guard while lineing up and then actually on
the trigger just before I shot. It has a 26" heavy bbl. I'm ambivilant
about the half oct bbl but got it to improve the balance of the rifle, which I
think it does. So far I have 13 one shot kills with it, shots from
8 yards to 167 yards.

Kurt, I don't think the guy that made the loading tools and mould wants to
be mentioned but yes there is a connection with Orville.
To me there is nothing cooler than casting bullets with that mould,
loading up some shells with those tools and going out and hunting
something up.

I made the reducer, one end is counterbored and threaded to
accept mecham sizing rings so I could adjust the amount the
shell was reduced to accomidate slightly different dia bullets, paper etc.
Now that I have things the way I want them I will make another without that feature.

The mould is a copy of an original in the minutest detail.
It is on the money at .500" patched with 9lb. onion skin.
It is a good killer and I have shot up to 20 rounds through
it with out cleaning, blowing or anything and still hit my deer
target in the kill zone.

Thanks again

G. Larson

mdeland, I use a doubled up pair of cotton chore
gloves. The most I've ever cast at one sitting
was 100 bullets and the handle was getting hot
through the gloves but not unbearable. I don't
know how the old timers did it and could only speculate.

A big "Way to go" for you, Greg. That is what these things are all about. Your approach just makes the experience more satisfying and takes it to another level. You're shooting straight, rdnck.

I have wondered if they perhaps had some wood scales that clamped on to the small metal mold handles but don't remember seeing anything like that in loading kits.

They do Mike.
A friend collects the old Sharps and Maynard moulds that were made by Sharps and he has a couple with wood on the handles.

Kurt

Well that makes sense. Do you happen to remember if they were an option for the molds as seen in most loading kits with bare metal handles and how did they attach?
I assume from the shape of the metal which is usually tapered toward the hand for heat dissipation and no obvious screw hole , that they probably clamped on in some fashion.
You guys sure have me wanting to build a single shot BPCR hunting rifle with all your very cool game pictures.
I have a # 5 Roller action that will be my candidate. MD

The ones he has are similar to the Lyman handle.

I think a trapdoor carbine in the 50 is a nice combination. You can cam the round in if the bullet is a little tight.

Greg. I like that gun case, Have to look and see if I have enough Oak in the shed

I would say any wood on the handles of sharps moulds it something which was added at a later date.
The mould work just fine with heavy cotton gloves, when they get too hot for the gloves the mould it too hot also.
Also the buffalo hunters or any one using these moulds could have cooled the handle just as cowboys cooled the handle of branding irons, a wet gunny sack or other wet cloth.
I know about the branding irons, when I got old enough to go along from ranch to ranch branding, the irons were heated in an open wood fire, a wet gunny sack was always kept handy to cool the handles of the irons.

Thanks for the western lore Orville. I have seen a fair number of those molds mostly in pictures but at some gun shows as well in old cased pistols and rifles often thinking they would be a bear to use much , especially with bullets in the 500 grain category.
Some where at the farm in Michigan there is still a set of the old pliers type Ideal mold and loading tool. I never did know what caliber it was for.
If memory serves me correctly it had the mold in the head, a de-capping and recapping pin and seating die prong lower on the handle. It's been 50 years since I last saw it. MD