Sealing The Breech

Support for the 1863 shooter. Discussions of powders, loads, bullets, etc.
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klw
Posts: 180
Joined: Thu Mar 31, 2005 11:04 pm

Sealing The Breech

Post by klw »

How does the Sharps mechanism work and how hard is to take apart to clean? Could someone take digital pictures?
WV SCROUNGER
Posts: 12
Joined: Tue Aug 05, 2008 5:38 pm

Breach seal

Post by WV SCROUNGER »

The original Sharps produced by Christian Sharps sealed the breach utilizing two parts . A sliding sleeve in the breach which slide towards the shooter when the gun was fired and a pressure plate which was pushed toward the sleeve when the gun was fired. WHen the two parts ( the sleeve and the plate ) came together under pressure they formed a seal.
In order for the two parts to effectively form the seal the parts must be kept clean ( free of black powder fouling).
Shooters today apply antiseize grease to the pressure plate and the underside of the sliding sleeve instead of trying to keep these two parts clean while in the midst of a shooting section.
To answer the second part of your question: dissassembly of the parts for cleaning is not difficult at all.......
klw
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Joined: Thu Mar 31, 2005 11:04 pm

Thanks

Post by klw »

That was helpful. How many rounds can this arrangement take before it wears out?

Rather had hoped for an answer to this as that was going to determine whether or not I ordered one. What I've heard is that they wear out rather quickly, 1000 shots or so. Anyone know if that is true?
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snapcap14
Posts: 279
Joined: Thu Sep 21, 2006 10:07 am

Post by snapcap14 »

have not worn one out in 5 years. about 10 + shoots a year 100 rounds +-per shoot. plus practice sessions powder 2ffg swiss
Standing on the ROCK
14th VA. Cav.
N-SSA
Charlie Hahn
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Joined: Wed Jul 12, 2006 11:38 am
Location: Maryland

Post by Charlie Hahn »

Finally have my shop up and running.

I am working through several guns modified by Art Crowther and have found a progression in his design for the breach block and sleeve. The final design is a solid block and small sleeve with compressed o-ring. The modification he did which requires a new "matched" machine block which is expensive and "if" or "when" the breech block etches will require a new block to be made. I see this as not practicle for the average pocket book, and the amount of shooting that is done by fellow Skirmishers. I know many have guns they have shot for years with the original desing with minimum issues, but I see more that don't fit this profile.

I am finalizing what I refer to as a re-newable modification that should provide the same down range results as the final design by Art.

I am putting together a loaner example that will be done a range tested later this winter, it is on an Itailian frame, and I am getting ready to modify my Shiloh.

Having all these examples has been very informative, and I did do a "bread board" mod to my Shiloh with no perminate changes that produced one hole groups at 50 yards.

Basically the modifcation takes your breech block and removes the moving plate, and moves the fire tranfer hole forward to be flush with the breech face. Adding a solid chamber if it has the sliding sleeve, a small moving sleeve, and a slight chamber modifcation. The center portion of the breech face is intended to be replacable and hard, as is the moving sleeve.

I have used both forward and rearward o-rings, and found this to be a "match" solution that will hold up with minimal care.

When possible I match the modification with a prefered bullet and my tubes to give this a cartridge feel, and repeatable consistant performance with no "magic".

Assuming no other modifications, this "Crowther" modification will cost about $300.

I will post when the loaner is ready, and will report the results of both carbines.
Charlie Hahn
Charlie Hahn
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snapcap14
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Post by snapcap14 »

charlie mine was done a little diffrent AL Ogden had it done for me.
Don't remember who he said it was.
the clean out screw was removed a solid bar was pressed in then the clean out screw was cut back next the gas check plate opening was opened to an even dia. the flash cone was removed. A block was milled screwed into the cone hole then the gas check press fitted to that. finally a new streight flash channel was drilled from center of the block to under the nipple. cost to me at that time was about 85. my oring mod was done to the chamber sleeve by Bobby.
Ithink that accomps. what you have done but a new complete milled block is not needed. It was done a few yrs ago and the block shows no sign of wear yet.
I'll stopby and see you at the spring Nationals.
Standing on the ROCK
14th VA. Cav.
N-SSA
Charlie Hahn
Posts: 38
Joined: Wed Jul 12, 2006 11:38 am
Location: Maryland

Post by Charlie Hahn »

What I am doing is very similar to what was done to yours. I do a chamber modification to add a modified forcing cone, and match to one of my tubes. I make all parts hard, and I expect a long life as well. I don't like press fits in this application as dissassembly is very difficult or impossible if an issue occurs. I plan to keep records of the parts I make, so if a customer needs a replacement, I can supply one.

Charlie
Charlie Hahn
klw
Posts: 180
Joined: Thu Mar 31, 2005 11:04 pm

Art's Conversion

Post by klw »

Mine, as I recall, was a replacement block with an absolutely flat front surface. The chamber had been cut in half with an o-ring between the two pieces. Amazing amount of work for the price. My only regret is that I sold it without firing it. Someone offered me a lot of money for the gun and I took it.

At the time there was also another completely different approach. Mike Newhause would take the Italian made breech block completely apart and nickel plate it. How well the nickel plating worked to eliminate the problem I don't know. Mike wasn't real good at returning rifles in a timely fashion.
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