How do you lubricate your block?

Free_Stater · Post by **Free_Stater** » Thu Jun 16, 2011 5:15 pm

As we all know, the Sharps block can get awfully hard to move because of powder fouling, so what do you do to prevent this?

I was my block in hot water and Simple Green after a shooting session, then after rinsing it goes on the electric stove element set on something cooler than "Medium" until it's hot and totally dry. After much experimentation, I came up with the idea of melting bullet lube on the surfaces while the block was still hot. DGL Bullet Lube is made for use with black powder, and it keeps the block lubricated during extended shooting sessions instead of burning off or drying out as many kinds of oil can do.

holdover · Post by **holdover** » Thu Jun 16, 2011 9:08 pm

been using "Lubriplate" for over 10yrs, tried many othere including high pressure/ high temp lube, but come back to it all the time

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=6525 ... EC__GREASE

Jay Yuskaitis · Post by **Jay Yuskaitis** » Fri Jun 17, 2011 1:53 am

"Lubriplate". Jay Y.

klw · Post by **klw** » Wed Jun 22, 2011 9:54 pm

I thought that Shiloh blocks didn't have this problem??????

Free_Stater · Post by **Free_Stater** » Wed Jun 22, 2011 10:22 pm

klw wrote:I thought that Shiloh blocks didn't have this problem??????

What would give you that idea? The block is exposed to the same black powder fouling as the bore, and it's going to cause problems. Lubrication helps mitigate those problems.

Brent · Post by **Brent** » Thu Jun 23, 2011 5:51 am

Free_Stater wrote:As we all know, the Sharps block can get awfully hard to move because of powder fouling, so what do you do to prevent this?

Not mine. Not ever. And there is no way in hell mine would be set on a stove burner. Not once, not for a millisecond. Never heard of such things.

Free_Stater · Post by **Free_Stater** » Thu Jun 23, 2011 6:52 am

Brent, I didn't know you shot a 63. If you know how to keep the block from getting dirty, please tell me and I'll do what you say.

Heating the block is an efficient and safe way to get all the water out of the flash channel; the only other options are to let it air dry, try to dry it out with a Q tip, or use some sort of oil to displace the moisture. Heating the block to dry it saves a lot of time. Since the block doesn't go over 250-300 degrees, I don't see a problem--I've been doing the same thing with black powder revolver cylinders since the late 1960s, and to date doing so has caused exactly zero problems.

I use a whole other protocol on the 74s, and in fact, my 45-90 block came out of the rifle for the first time since February just a day or two ago, and cleaning was a lot easier than with the 63s. Basically I used a patch and a little oil on it and put it back in.

Brent · Post by **Brent** » Thu Jun 23, 2011 6:56 am

Indeed, I don't shoot a 63. Not sure how I got on this side of the forum. I didn't realize it was the 63 page. My apologies

Free_Stater · Post by **Free_Stater** » Thu Jun 23, 2011 6:58 am

I figured it was something like that.

With all the Sharps shooting you do, though, you really should try a 63. It's hugely fun and open to lots of interesting experimentation.

Jay Yuskaitis · Post by **Jay Yuskaitis** » Thu Jun 23, 2011 3:19 pm

I guess we all can get lost time and time again, it's happened to me more than once. Jay Y.

Free_Stater · Post by **Free_Stater** » Thu Jun 23, 2011 3:57 pm

I have NEVER been lost.

Powerful confused for a month or two, but never lost.

GST · Post by **GST** » Fri Jun 24, 2011 10:16 pm

I may have to track down some lubriplate, I guess the auto parts store will be a good place to start. As far as cleaning the block, simple green and water has been my choice for all my BP guns. I use aerosol brake parts cleaner and an air compressor to void any moisture from the inards of the block.
I have had a love/hate relationship with my '63 for about 15 years. I have to be in the right mood to mess with it. Sometimes I think a good Hawken would be a better way to go.

Scott

Southron Sr. · Post by **Southron Sr.** » Wed Aug 24, 2011 5:47 pm

I did a less than $20.00 "O" Ring job on my Pedersoli Sharps and can go for 60 to 75 rounds before fouling becomes an issue.

Why would I need to lubricate my block?

Oregon Bill · Post by **Oregon Bill** » Sat Aug 27, 2011 7:59 am

I sure admire you guys running the 63s. I once owned a Maynard Second Model .50, as well as an original Merrill. Those old back loaders are sure eye-catchers at the range.

SHARPSSHOOTER5090 · Post by **SHARPSSHOOTER5090** » Sat Mar 14, 2015 3:00 pm

I melt SPG and pour the cavity in the breach block and gas check full. It eliminates the air space and it takes many many shots before it is melted away. what does melt with each shot keeps the breach block lubricated and sliding easily for a long time. The minimising the air space seams to help with accuracy a bit.

sharpsshooter5090

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How do you lubricate your block?

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