Pyrodex vs Black Power

[lastchip]

Greeting All

Sometime this fall, I'm expecting the local UPS man to deliver a shiny new 63 rifle in 54 cal to my door, can't wait! I've a lot of research to do in the mean time to keep me busy till them. I'd like to ask you veterans of the 63, whats your opinion of using pyrodex verse black power as a charge for shooting the shiloh sharps 63? Safety, cleaner burning, easier cleaning, more consistent, less corrosive? Or any other opinion you might have

Thanks in advance
David

[Free_Stater]

I've shot my 63 with .54 caliber Pyrodex pellets, and it works okay. I don't think velocity is quite as good, and cleanup is somewhat easier than when shooting black powder, though not enough easier to justify using all Pyrodex. For plinking, when I want to shoot a lot of rounds, I often use American Pioneer BP replacement. Again, I don't think this produces the same velocities as black powder or Pyrodex, but cleanup is incredibly easy, much better than even Pyrodex. When shooting American Pioneer, cleaning involves rinsing off the block, then drying and giving it a light coating of oil, along with pulling the flash hole plug screw and flushing out the flame channel, and then I use a transmission funnel inserted into the breech and pour a gallon of hot, soapy water through the barrel, then finish off with patches and some Bore Butter. Be advised that cleaning after shooting black powder isn't much more difficult than this.

But also be advised that Pyrodex is NOT non-corrosive. Leave Pyrodex in the bore, and you will soon have a very rusty gun. On the other hand, I have run tests with the Pioneer, and an 1860 Army revolver, fired 18 times with Pioneer and left on a shelf without any cleaning was still rust free after four weeks. This does not absolve the shooter from cleaning his guns, however; no matter what you shoot, it's a good idea to clean any firearm immediately after use, and this applies especially to any which use black powder or substitutes.

[Alvin]

I have not been shooting the '63 very long although have been shooting traditional muzzeloading for about 45yrs, the true black powder is more reliable regardles of weather conditions than any of the replacement powders. I really like the eazy clean up of clean shot although in rainy or wet fog conditions soaks up moisture like a spounge. slow fires / no fires very common,so now only use in my revolvers;, pyrodex not any easer to clean than the true black powder and a little harder to ignight; in rifles ; for hunting I use true black powder, so that is what I use to pratice with.These symptoms may not happen in the '63 since the powder is more protected,& the spark is hotter & centered, but I am not going to chance it. In my '63 have only used swiss 2f,& CCI 6 wing caps, happy with the results, hot soapy water or mupheys wood soap for clean up,dry & protect with bore butter, works for me.

[4570sharps]

I tried pyrodex in my military rifle and got hang fires every time. I NEVER have had a hang fire with black. I even tried a duplex load of 5 to 10 grs. fffg black as a primer in the bottom of my paper ctg. Even then I still got hang fires. And by the way, if you don't clean your gun promptly, pyrodex will eat up your bore. It is more corrosive than black. It has picric acid in it, and I've seen guns that were neglected by folks who thought "hey, it's pyrodex, not black, so I can get away with not cleaning",and as a result, their guns were ruined. I make my ctgs with a flat bottom, and clean my guns religiously and with regular ffg black have never had a problem. I tried pyrodex in an 1863 springfield replica once, and it was the ONLY time it ever failed to fire! I guess you know now how I feel about pyrodex! HA HA!

[lastchip]

I want to Thank You Gents who have replied to my query so far, about Pyrodex vs Black Power. Very informative so far, I hope others will add their opinion in time. "American Pioneer BP replacement" is completely new to me, Thanks again for the mention of it. So far, It seems BP is the way to go. Also Thanks for the cleaning tips, I noticed no one mentioned the use of a brass bore brush to remove and lead fouling, is it not needed after every outing? And while we're touching on cleaning, is it advisable to remove the forearm stock for cleaning. So, no water gets trapped between forearm and barrel?

Thanks once more gents
David

[snapcap14]

can't help only use the real stuff. Will not insult my sharps by using anything else. REal BP dose not go bad so do the 5lb min pay the 20 hazemat and be done with it

[Alvin]

I bought my military '63 used, was advised to remove the forarm & check for unburned powder, there was just enough there too ruin my sharps & hand, probably from someone doing free pour but I remove at every cleaning after shooting, is a good time to get some linseed oil rubed in the channel anyway.I won't skimp on the cleaning ! it deserves the best care I can give it.

[4570sharps]

My cleaning procedure is as follows: At the range or in the field, I carry a small squeeze bottle (empty hoppes black powder solvent bottle from the '80's) Full of soapy water, old toothbrush, q-tips, small screwdriver for removing the gas seal, and small spray can of WD-40. When done shooting, first I clean the bore with a 100% Cotton flannel patches on jag-tipped rod. I use spit on my patches and after the bore is clean, I run a oily patch down last. As to leading, I have never had any leading in my .54 cal. '63. Then, I clean my breech block. I take the gas seal plate off,Very carefully, and squirt the soapy water into the recess on the block face, and all over the rest of the block. then I scrub with the toothbrush till the fouling is loosened, then flush with more water. When clean, I squirt a bead of Teflon lube gel (sold at radio shack) into the recess where the gas seal slides. I then re-assemble the rifle and wait till I get home to clean the nipple, because I don't want to risk losing my nipple in the weeds. To clean the nipple, I use pipe cleaners and hot water. when clean, I coat the threads with "never-seize" paste, and re-assemble. I also take the flash-channel screw out and hold the block under the faucet and flush it out then run pipe cleaners into the flash channel. When dry, I spray everything down good with WD-40, and re-assemble. I live in a very humid region, (North-west Georgia), and have never had a problem with rust using this procedure. In the field, I don't take my forearm off, but at home I do. Some of my friends say I'm a bit obsessive with my cleaning, but I have never had a missfire as long as I stayed with real Black powder.

[buffalocannon]

I've never had a rusting problem except back in my muzzleloader days when I was using Pyrodex.

[lastchip]

I want to Thank everyone who has replied with opinions and advice on cleaning, it is truly helpful to someone just starting to explore black powder. If anyone else has more to add, please chime in.


David

[lastchip]

OK....So, it would seem, Going with black powder would be the majority choice and recommendation. Can someone kindly tell me were I can buy black powder, where a minimum purchase of 5 pnds is not required? That just seems like a lot of BP to have stored in the house.


Thank you all once again
David

[lastchip]

..and what the opinion of Schuetzen black powder? I have not seen its name mention in the chat of BP only Swiss and Goex


David again

[snapcap14]

its ok tried it once. I buy goex because it is made here. used Swiss for awhile a lot less fouling same acc as goex w/10% load reduction. But w/ using 15 - 20lbs a year went back to goex.

[Kitsap]

Here is another option.......

http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/201 ... est-award/

Doug

[lastchip]

Here is another option.......

http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/201 ... est-award/

Doug

I've don't some research into the Black MZ, everything seems to be positive about it, including a small write up in a reason issue of the NRA magazine, American Rifleman. Trouble gonna be finding it, it would seem.