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Paper Sharps Ammo

Posted: Mon May 31, 2004 11:25 am
by Todd Birch
Hey Ken

Those of us with '63s have all had the same growing pains.

Sounds like the bullet you described to Bobby is the classic Sharps "Christmas Tree" design - one size fits all bores. There was so much variance historically that it was the logical solution.

In my Farmingdale .50 Military Rifle, I started out shooting 60 grains in a paper tube behind a breech seated bullet and wasn't getting consistent accuracy due to powder loss. I reduced the charge by 5 grains and pushed the paper tube far enough in so that there was no shearing action and no powder loss - Bingo!

My next effort was to make up rounds with .54 calibre 60 grain Pyrodex pellets which made up into an authentic looking round that took handling well. I had to punch a hole into the base of the pellet with an awl or tear off the paper folded over the base to get 100% ignition.

These shoot very well if you can get past the use of Pyrodex. Too bad Hodgdon doesn't make a pellet large enogh for use in .54s. They told me they are hard pressed to keep up with current production.

Todd

The phanthom bullet

Posted: Mon May 31, 2004 7:02 pm
by HvyMtl
Well good news, my son is going to post a picture of the bullet described earlier. I would try to do it but with my computer skills I would probably lose the bullet. I will try to get it done by tomrrow.

Todd, thanks for the vote of confidence.

I don't want to say anything to get anybody angry with me, but my 1859 Ped.54 at 100yds. is more accurate and easier to shoot than the three 45/70's I have, but now that i"m going to make the paper cartidges I might start singing a different tune once I get started.

Ken

...paper Sharps stuff...

Posted: Mon May 31, 2004 7:34 pm
by Todd Birch
Hey Hvymtl

I didn't comment re: your earlier inquiry as to the difference between shearing off a paper cartridge and loose powder in a '63.

Once you shear off the end of a paper tube, you effectively have a "loose powder" situation as the powder falls into the recess of the breech face.

This being the case, I am at a loss to answer your question. By pouring in a set amount of powder, you eliminate the variance of an inconsistent powder charge from shearing so it would seem to be a better idea.

I think it would be a bad idea to pour a chamber full and close the action as some of the excess will accumulate in the lever spring recess and that was known to cause problems way back when.

Like you, I was surprised at the accuracy level I got from my '63 at 100 and 200 yards, especially considering the sights. At least as good as my .45-70. Beyond that, its a different matter.

A good tip someone posted is to coat the taper of the shear plate and flash hole clean out screw with an anti-seize compound. I turned down an otherwise good Farmingdale '63 carbine in .45 calibre because the head of the clean out screw was broken off.

Todd

Indexed wrong

Posted: Mon May 31, 2004 8:37 pm
by HvyMtl
Thanks Todd, first thing I did when I got the rifle home was to take it apart and antiseize all threaded parts in the block. Oddly enough when I was first looking at this rifle in the store I thought the sights were off to the rightside when held it level. I have reached the age where I need glasses to see anything up close, so I asked my friend that was with me and doesn't wear glasses what he thought? he said it looked fine. Ends up he's the one who needs the glasses. I sent the rifle back to Navy Arms so they could reindex the sights on the barrel. All they had to do was turn the barrel in a little more. The result are the sights were now set in the middle of the barrel, and guess what I ended up with a very nice fit between the breach and the block. Not overly tight but snug, so no blow by.

Buy the way they offered me a new rifle but I told them I felt I was destined to own this rifle. Once I got it back and shot it I new I made the right decision.

Cartridge Paper

Posted: Tue Jun 01, 2004 5:45 pm
by gmartin
Ken,
It may be presumptious of me to recommend a paper with out having shot it, but darn it the stuff looks quality. As I told you my '63 is in the shop so I've been busy making cartridges. And I follow Terry Behm's recipe closely. I'm even not nitrating due to his advice about fouling, except for the base. Try using Vellum cotton tracing paper by Helix. It is purchased in standard 8.5 X 11" sheets in a small book of paper. The stuff is very clean and white and seems in stiffness between Sub Way paper and copy type. I made a template to copy from of dimensions 1 3/8" (35mm.) x 2 3/4" and then used the paper in a copy machine rather than copy paper. The base is a CIRCULAR 1 1/4" tissue type nitrated. Boy do these look good! Also used this paper to make a cartridge to attach to the base of my ring tails given me by a friend, glued not tied. With these I used both Sub Way and Vellum type and the stiffer Vellum helped when it came to lubing. I am sure that when you find a paper cartridge you like your shooting will not suffer.
I VOTED! Gregg (see Black Powder Shooting)