Shiloh Rifle Forums

I have an original New Model 1863.

Can someone tell me the tools needed to remove the gas check from the breech block?

What is the technique to remove it, please?

Mr. Stewart,
I’ve used a small bearing/bushing puller with good success. It needs to be removed evenly without cocking it to either side. You may need to soak the block in penetrating oil first. However, they are not usually real tight because they are intended to move slightly when the rifle is fired. There is a company making a removal tool.i can’t remember who it is at present. Google “removing Sharps gas seal” it should come up......
Hope this helps,
Tom Klinger

Thank you.

My original Sharps carbine doesn't have the "notches" on the sides where something can be hooked under the gas check pace. How on earth do you use a mini gear puller on ne. Do you go inside the large center hole or what?

George

I have an early version of the Pedersoli Military Model which (as far as I can tell) has a pretty authentic copy of the Lawrence gas check system. The block plate is almost a press fit to a thin line, and there are no grasping grooves.

I grind a cheap wood chisel as sharp as I can, put the edge on the line on one side, and press or gently tap it in until I see a slight widening of the line. (It will be slight; don’t try for more.) Then I move to the opposite side and repeat. Then the top and bottom. To the first side again. By now pressure or a few light taps should widen the line a bit more than the first time. Then around the block again, and repeat until the line becomes a gap, then a space, then (finally!) loose enough to grab and wiggle out.

My check plate is hardened, but I don’t want to do any bending by trying to get any side out too far by itself. Slow and easy, round and round, does it. I have used single-edged razor blades, mounted in a vertical wooden handle, but they break a lot and the pieces stick in the gap, so the chisel is mostly what I use. Get a cheap one at a swap meet or yard sale, and grind the bevel as gradual as possible.

Hope I’m not putting too fine a point in this, but slather the plate and seat with anti-seize before reassembly. If you shoot the thing, you’ll be glad you did. It’s still the worst part of the cleanup; a cap&ball revolver is a breeze by comparison.

Yes, that is about what I did too. Got it off this morning. The gas check plate was a bit easier than the cleanout screw for the cap channel, but I got that too. I didn't lube it up with anti-seize compound yet because it will probably be a while before I shoot it, but will do that before shooting.

I have been using Lyman's 54 caliber minie bullet with my Shiloh, but am thinking about ordering one of Accurate Moulds 54 caliber heeled moulds (54-440. Has anyone used this bullet with their paper cartridge Sharps?

George

I’ve just started using something similar. It’s a Lee mood produced for the Eras Gone bullet mold company out of Alabama. It drops a heeled bullet at 510 grains and looks pretty close in profile. Got about 30 shots with it now. Seems to do ok. I would probably use something better than elmers for the glue on the heel. Had two bullets come out of the cartridge in my box when I went to pick them up.

They sell a glue pen in crafts stores, which is what I use. The paper tubes are glued around a slightly tapered mandrel and a glue line drawn around the inside top. I drilled out a cheap wire stripper such that the hole is the proper size to hold the tube tight against the flange of the Rapine Christmas Tree bullet that I use till the glue dries. It’s some kind of acrylate, that dries quickly.

Haven’t done any aftermarket block modifications or used any newfangled tubes. Berdan’s Sharpshooters didn’t use them, and their “management” of the system should be rediscoverable. So far, I’ve been anointing the line between the gas check and breech block with a drop of 10:1 water:Ballistol every three shots or so. I can shoot about 25 rounds before the breech block needs to be taken out and wiped, then it’s diminishing returns for another 5-10 shots and by then I’ve had all the fun I can stand. I’m going to try the lube in the block cavity trick next time and see how that works.

I close the rear of the paper cartridge with a home made plastic die and plunger, and keep it closed with a drop of glue in the center. The cartridge is just long enough to fit in the chamber, then I poke a hole in the end before closing the breech. The gas check would snip the end off the cartridge but I don’t like wasting powder.

Would a 20-gauge Lee Loader work on these cartridges? A “pie crimp” on the end would be neat, reproducible and less likely to come apart or leak than the amateurish ones I make with my homemade setup.

just bought an original 63 carbine. soaked it in Kroil, and gently used a razor cutting knife to tap into the edge of each side. it started to move and slowly came out.
it really is a tight fit. this one looks brand new after 140 years.
I'm tempted to smooth it out to make it easier..but hey..I'm only the caretaker of it ...I'll leave it alone for the next guy.
Ken

My gas plate does have a slot on both sides so removal is pretty easy. I did file off some material. It was just in way to tight. Comes out much easier now and still not a speck of blowby.