Hi Rich,
Sorry it took so long to give a response but busy at work. Yes the steamer can be used to clean anything in the house and outside. The one I have is called a Shark which my wifle purchased, it seems to be a pretty good one from the way its built. It has all kinds of different hookups and nozzles which seem to fit pretty good into all the openings of the rifle. the trick is to make sure its hot enough before hitting the part with the steam, it has two lights on it one is red which means you have to wait while it builds up pressure, the other is green which means you can go ahead and spray the steam. It dosen't take long for it to turn to green, maybe thirty seconds or less once it turns to green after first plugging it in.
We are planning a trip to my friends place in Maine so i'll give you an e-mail when I know its for sure and mybe we could meet up someplace up there.
Ken
The dreaded cleaning of the '63
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HvyMtl
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Rich Siegel
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- Location: Maine
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klw
- Posts: 180
- Joined: Thu Mar 31, 2005 11:04 pm
Interesting Reading
I was just about to order a 63 Military Rifle until I read this description of how to clean one. It isn't that I would mind the effort so much as it is that I don't want to do this five times a week.
As to the other guns mentioned, I've got both a Romano Maynard and a Navy Arms Smith. I've looking forward to trying Greg Ellington's self-cleaning bullets in both.
Cases for the Maynard aren't expensive if you are a careful shopper. I buy the brass ones several hundred at a time from Rapine. Given that size of order they cost about $1 each. You have to ask for that price but, well, 50%+ off is worth a question.
I haven't shot Greg's bullet yet but I have tried several different ones in the Maynard. So far Larry Romano's bullet works best. Incidentally, you can use pistol caps or Musket caps on that gun depending on how you have the rifle set up. I've got both as well as both calibers. I bought, however, when these guns were MUCH less expensive.
If I do EXACTLY what Larry says as to loading the gun is highly accurate. If I deviate from his advice accuracy declines.
As to comparing a Navy ARms Smith to a Romano, that's a bit difficult. Older NA Smiths had there barrels factory installed backwards. Don't ask. Mine had that problem. Tom Ball was still alive then and I had him accurize the gun. I also bought a MVA sight for the gun (yes they did make a few but not many) which Tom installed. So my "accurized" Smith is about as accurate as the Romano .
Both of these guns, incidentally, have several possible "cartridges" that you can use. Navy Arms sells thos huge brass cylinders but there are also plastic cases. The plastic works better as it is easier to get a good fit between the bullet and the case. Plastic and brass cases are also available for the Maynard. Don't have much experience with the plastic yet.
But I appreciate the details on how to clean a 63. I'm going to pass. Just ordered a cartridge Shiloh Military in 30-40 Krag. That will have to be it.
As to the other guns mentioned, I've got both a Romano Maynard and a Navy Arms Smith. I've looking forward to trying Greg Ellington's self-cleaning bullets in both.
Cases for the Maynard aren't expensive if you are a careful shopper. I buy the brass ones several hundred at a time from Rapine. Given that size of order they cost about $1 each. You have to ask for that price but, well, 50%+ off is worth a question.
I haven't shot Greg's bullet yet but I have tried several different ones in the Maynard. So far Larry Romano's bullet works best. Incidentally, you can use pistol caps or Musket caps on that gun depending on how you have the rifle set up. I've got both as well as both calibers. I bought, however, when these guns were MUCH less expensive.
If I do EXACTLY what Larry says as to loading the gun is highly accurate. If I deviate from his advice accuracy declines.
As to comparing a Navy ARms Smith to a Romano, that's a bit difficult. Older NA Smiths had there barrels factory installed backwards. Don't ask. Mine had that problem. Tom Ball was still alive then and I had him accurize the gun. I also bought a MVA sight for the gun (yes they did make a few but not many) which Tom installed. So my "accurized" Smith is about as accurate as the Romano .
Both of these guns, incidentally, have several possible "cartridges" that you can use. Navy Arms sells thos huge brass cylinders but there are also plastic cases. The plastic works better as it is easier to get a good fit between the bullet and the case. Plastic and brass cases are also available for the Maynard. Don't have much experience with the plastic yet.
But I appreciate the details on how to clean a 63. I'm going to pass. Just ordered a cartridge Shiloh Military in 30-40 Krag. That will have to be it.
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Todd Birch
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- Location: Somewhere in the Cariboo ....
cleaning '63s
klw
Sorry to hear you're gonna pass on a '63. The percussion guns are where it all began with the Sharps legend. Shades of Berdan, and all that....
Granted, it is a bit of a chore to strip the flash hole clean out screw and shear plate every cleaning, but it's a trade off with no brass to clean and prep.
Ken seems to have a good idea with the steam cleaner and I intend to get one as I shoot cap & ball as well from time to time.
Although it isn't authentic (neither are some of the calibres offered by Shiloh in their '74s), I recommend that people contemplating the purchase of a '63 Military go with .50 calibre. It allows you to use the same bullets as you would in a .50-70 (an incentive to buy another Shiloh!) and ease of manufacture for paper rounds.
I discovered that I could roll a .54 calibre 60 gr. Pyrodex pellet with a sized/lubed bullet and get an authentic looking round that handles well.
I use letter paper, but one could also use onion skin or cloth.
I think that a gauze wrap could be coated with a shellac making it virtually waterproof for hunting.
The NSSA won't let you use these rounds, but it's almost as easy to make paper tubes loaded with BP.
Ken
Good to hear first hand that the steamer eliminates the removal of the shear plate after cleaning. What are you spraying in as a lube? I don't have an air blower so I'd have to be sure I used a good water displacement product.
On the other hand, I could use an air compresser for other things.....
T
Sorry to hear you're gonna pass on a '63. The percussion guns are where it all began with the Sharps legend. Shades of Berdan, and all that....
Granted, it is a bit of a chore to strip the flash hole clean out screw and shear plate every cleaning, but it's a trade off with no brass to clean and prep.
Ken seems to have a good idea with the steam cleaner and I intend to get one as I shoot cap & ball as well from time to time.
Although it isn't authentic (neither are some of the calibres offered by Shiloh in their '74s), I recommend that people contemplating the purchase of a '63 Military go with .50 calibre. It allows you to use the same bullets as you would in a .50-70 (an incentive to buy another Shiloh!) and ease of manufacture for paper rounds.
I discovered that I could roll a .54 calibre 60 gr. Pyrodex pellet with a sized/lubed bullet and get an authentic looking round that handles well.
I use letter paper, but one could also use onion skin or cloth.
I think that a gauze wrap could be coated with a shellac making it virtually waterproof for hunting.
The NSSA won't let you use these rounds, but it's almost as easy to make paper tubes loaded with BP.
Ken
Good to hear first hand that the steamer eliminates the removal of the shear plate after cleaning. What are you spraying in as a lube? I don't have an air blower so I'd have to be sure I used a good water displacement product.
On the other hand, I could use an air compresser for other things.....
T
"From birth to the packing house, we travel between the two eternities ....." Robert Duvall in "Broken Trail"
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HvyMtl
- Posts: 256
- Joined: Tue May 25, 2004 6:44 pm
- Location: Soviet state of New Jersey
Steaming:
Hi Todd,
I don't know if I trust the steam cleaning enough YET to eliminate the removal and inspection of the plate. I use a synthetic grease that i'v had for many years to coat the back of the plate. The last time I had to clean the 1863 rifle when I took the plate off it was clean, next time I will steam clean it, blow it out and then spray the metal protector in and then remove it for inspection. I don't remove any parts of the block for cleanout but apply the steamer to the nipple and then blow it out with compressed air and spray in a product called amsoil MP metal protector I also blow this out prior to using the rifle again. This makes the cleaning of the rifle much easier.
Hope this helps
Ken
I don't know if I trust the steam cleaning enough YET to eliminate the removal and inspection of the plate. I use a synthetic grease that i'v had for many years to coat the back of the plate. The last time I had to clean the 1863 rifle when I took the plate off it was clean, next time I will steam clean it, blow it out and then spray the metal protector in and then remove it for inspection. I don't remove any parts of the block for cleanout but apply the steamer to the nipple and then blow it out with compressed air and spray in a product called amsoil MP metal protector I also blow this out prior to using the rifle again. This makes the cleaning of the rifle much easier.
Hope this helps
Ken