Wood/stock protection

Manny Clothakis · Post by **Manny Clothakis** » Sat Dec 20, 2003 7:35 am

I should be getting my Sporter #1 next week. I would like some info on what is the best way to protect the wood finish, what is recommended by the group. Thanks in advance, Manny

ironramrod · Post by **ironramrod** » Sun Dec 21, 2003 12:16 pm

Manny,

I have used a couple of things on stocks, and they both work well. My favorite is straight linseed oil. I put 5 or 6 drops in my hands and rub them together, and then rub this light coating of linseed onto the stock. Rub it in really good until your hands start to feel really warm. The oil does a nice job of moisture protection for your stock, and with additional applications over time will fill in any scratches in your stock, too. However, if your stock has checkering you need to be careful with the linseed, because it will gradually fill in your checkering, too. It can be removed with the right shaped awl or similar tool, but that is somewhat time consuming. Further, a good coating of linseed on the inside of forearm barrel channels, and on stocks where they connect to the action will add a lot of moisture resistance to your rifles or shotguns. Other commercial products are available as well (e.g. tung oil, etc.) and I'm sure they work very well, but I have never used them.

My second method is old time paste wax. This stuff works really well, too, but is somewhat less moisture resistant than the linseed oil. Further, it will not fill in scratches nearly as good as the linseed oil, but it much more forgiving around checkering. It is applied with a rag, and buffed with a second rag; about like shoe polish. Additionally, you can apply it on checkering with a used soft tooth brush, and buff it off with a 2nd tooth brush and not worry about filling in your checkering.

I'm sure others will have additional ideas that will help you.

Regards

powderburner · Post by **powderburner** » Sun Dec 21, 2003 12:47 pm

that is pretty much what I do except I use tung oil and rub hard til it gets hot on the hand

dozer · Post by **dozer** » Sun Dec 21, 2003 1:46 pm

First of all, you did not say what finish you were starting with. Is it the "standard" finish or one of the upgrades? I purchased a used Shiloh and did not like the standard finish. (I'm a cabinet maker and I'm a bit picky about finish) I redid the stock with "Linspeed" finish. It takes a very small amount (4-5 drops) and many hand rubbed coats (each allowed to dry at least a day). Sand lightly every 3-4 coats until the grain is filled and you will have a very good finish and a well protected stock. If you have checkering, just brush it out with a tooth brush after each application to prevent build up and filling of the checkering.

Doz

Stan Koslow · Post by **Stan Koslow** » Thu Dec 25, 2003 3:16 am

I am a woodwright by trade and finish means everything. Hard English paste waxes provide a durable shell and is easy to "repair". Linseed oils need to be applied and allowed to fully cure. (30) coats depending on grain may be not considered exsessive. If a top coat goes over the previous coat that has not hardened, it never will. Most finishing oils have a palmorizing agent (forgive the spelling). That is when it comes into contact with o2 they harden. The walnut oil used in cooking will do the same. Linspeed and similar sub-topicals provide a higher "cut" and thus are a little more simple and some argue more reliable as they work better in higher humidity. Boiled Linseed is great but you should allow 48 hours between coats in 30 % humidity at 68 degrees and applied only with a lint proof cloth and dried in a dust free enviroment. Water spray your room before applying and then close the heaters off and door. The thinner the oil the deeper the penatration and more coats needed. For a mirror like what I would use on a high end table a little Johnsons baby oil and fine jewler rouge mix as an abrasive rub will smooth that puppy out like glass. Always tape off your checkering. A fine buffed out hard paste wax will always do good for a rifle stock good. Don't forget to finish the butt the same. Watco danish oil can be a good and simple finish in natural color. My two cents, sorry for the long post.

Ken Hartlein · Post by **Ken Hartlein** » Thu Dec 25, 2003 1:09 pm

Stan, what do you use for the hard paste wax?? I like the ideal of that, so I'm curious what brand you use?? If you like a couple of different ones, please list them so If I can't find one, maybe the other would be available. Thanks.

Stan Koslow · Post by **Stan Koslow** » Thu Dec 25, 2003 2:53 pm

Ken, there are a few. Briley is one. Go into any pro or semi pro woodworking store. White can with metal seal lid and green plastic lid on top of that. Look up Woodcraft Stores, they can probably ship to you guys that have a long dusty driveway.
Waxes come into two basic forms. Soft and hard. With the hard you want to apply it when it is a paste. Heat will thin it down in the can and the properties won't be as even. Wait till a dry scaley surface appears. Use window light to check it. Keep it cool before applying. You can buff out with with a soft flannel rag. Three coats will give a lot of protection and water will bead off. Use it as well in medal/wood fit areas. Keep the wax away from checkering. It will fill it as it is two thick.
Everyone has there pets so just ask around. Don't cheat by paying for the cheap stuff. It just doesn't pay. For what it's worth. Stan

Stan Koslow · Post by **Stan Koslow** » Fri Dec 26, 2003 7:56 pm

To much nog. Bri Wax, sorry, could see it but could not spell it.

Ken Hartlein · Post by **Ken Hartlein** » Fri Dec 26, 2003 9:01 pm

Thanks Stan, I will try to find some of that..that ...that .. nog nog nog.