I held, today, a Sharps Conversion that had been rebarreled again to .40-70. I did not buy it, though I could have. If the orginal conversion barrel been there, I probably would have.
So, as a really long shot, does anyone know of a Sharps original barrel in .50-70 or .45 anything that might have a forearm and could be for sale? Something that would be appropriate for a well traveled rifle?
In looking at this rifle I'm convinced it is a factory conversion, but do not have Seller's excellent book handy (spent 2 hrs looking for it). It shows the cut out in the buttplate for the patch box and the buttstocke has the steel insert for the saddle ring (hole in action for the other end of this attachment.
The lock plate was unshaped. Mike Venturino's latest book shows one of them ground to more or less the 1874 shape but I have seen other conversions that did not.
Can anyone tell me if this was a conversion for the Government, or a return from a dealer for refitting? Also, how to tell the different percussion sharps models from which these were made?
Here's hoping to a wayward barrel needing a home...
Thanks,
Brent
Sharps Conversion Longshot
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Brent
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MLV
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Brent: I don't have a barrel for sale, but perhaps can give a little information. The Sharps factory basically made two types of conversions. In the late 1860s they converted percussion carbines and some military rifles to .50-70 caliber. These have distinctive hammers and the pellet priming device housings are not ground off. Some of those were later rebarreled again to various calibers.
Then in the late 1870s the factory converted several thousand percussion carbine actions using mostly Model 1874 parts such as breechblocks, hammers, triggers, barrels etc. You have to look pretty close at one of those to tell it isn't a true Model 1874. In fact the Sharps on the cover of my Buffalo Rifles book is a Model 1874 "factory conversion" and so far no one has mentioned that they noticed that. They were made as .45-70s and .40-70 Straights but I've seen several of the latter that were punched out to .40-90BNs and so marked. My .45-70 one is extremely accurate with both grease groove and PP bullets.
Good luck with your project.
Then in the late 1870s the factory converted several thousand percussion carbine actions using mostly Model 1874 parts such as breechblocks, hammers, triggers, barrels etc. You have to look pretty close at one of those to tell it isn't a true Model 1874. In fact the Sharps on the cover of my Buffalo Rifles book is a Model 1874 "factory conversion" and so far no one has mentioned that they noticed that. They were made as .45-70s and .40-70 Straights but I've seen several of the latter that were punched out to .40-90BNs and so marked. My .45-70 one is extremely accurate with both grease groove and PP bullets.
Good luck with your project.
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Brent
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Mike,
Thanks for the reply. The rifle in/on your book was what I was hoping for. What I saw was a heavy Douglas Barrel with MVA windage front sight, paper patch bullet mold and many extra bullets, lots of cases (.40-70 SS) a decent vernier tang sight, but the parts I really wanted were not so hot. The butt was okay but the receiver had the saddle ring slide hole unfilled, the forearm was butchered somehow, like the last 1/3 cut off and then placed with black epoxy cast and shaped. The trigger was a single and the lockplate unground.
If you ever want to part with an original Sharps, let me know. The one on the cover will suit me just fine :)))). I probably can't afford one, but who knows? The price for the one I was looking at was $2000 and not a penny less. That I could afford, and I am pretty sure it shoots very accurately, but it is not what I wanted. So, I wait. Perhaps forever.
Brent
Thanks for the reply. The rifle in/on your book was what I was hoping for. What I saw was a heavy Douglas Barrel with MVA windage front sight, paper patch bullet mold and many extra bullets, lots of cases (.40-70 SS) a decent vernier tang sight, but the parts I really wanted were not so hot. The butt was okay but the receiver had the saddle ring slide hole unfilled, the forearm was butchered somehow, like the last 1/3 cut off and then placed with black epoxy cast and shaped. The trigger was a single and the lockplate unground.
If you ever want to part with an original Sharps, let me know. The one on the cover will suit me just fine :)))). I probably can't afford one, but who knows? The price for the one I was looking at was $2000 and not a penny less. That I could afford, and I am pretty sure it shoots very accurately, but it is not what I wanted. So, I wait. Perhaps forever.
Brent
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Howard Haworth
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To continue the theam on Shrps conversions.
I have an 1863 carbine 50-70 that is in need of a new barrel liner which I am having great dificulty in finding. Would I be better off having a Badger barrel or the like installed instead of trying to find another liner? I have been having this hankerin for a 45-110. Would this action be able to handle this round (with black powder only loads)? Any input would be appreciated. Thanks Howard.
I have an 1863 carbine 50-70 that is in need of a new barrel liner which I am having great dificulty in finding. Would I be better off having a Badger barrel or the like installed instead of trying to find another liner? I have been having this hankerin for a 45-110. Would this action be able to handle this round (with black powder only loads)? Any input would be appreciated. Thanks Howard.
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hepboy
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- Location: Armour, South Dakota
Howard,
As to the action being strong enough to hold the 45-110, I have a 63 Sharps carbine that was re-barreled to 50-140. I have not noticed any problem with this firearm. The work was done for the previous owner by the “other” Sharps company and a new forearm was installed. He sold it to me after his dr. told him to quit shooting it as he had several vertebra fused in his neck. He did not have the original barrel or forearm, so the gun could not be restored.
If I may be so bold as to make a suggestion: Please leave the gun in original condition. I realize that this is your property and you may do with it as you wish, but consider the fact that this is also a piece of history that has been entrusted to your care. Because of the efforts of several people in the past 100+ years this gun exists for your enjoyment, and with reasonable care you may pass it on to future generations 100s of years from now. If you decide to re-barrel, keep the original parts so they may be reinstalled at a future date. Since it has been relined once perhaps this is the best way to go.
Another option if you just want a shooting gun sell or trade it for the type you want. This way your original Sharps will be undamaged. I am sure that there is a collector out there who would love to own a Sharps carbine regardless of bore condition.
I also own another 63 Sharps that was converted to 50-70 with a liner, then at some point the barrel was reamed out to 20 gauge shotgun. The bore is poor, and the top tang is broken, but I would never change this fine old gun from what it is. This gun possibly fought wars, Indian battles, or traveled west as a shotgun in the hands of an immigrant farmer.
I do not wish to presume to tell you what to do with your firearm, only in a friendly way to ask you to consider other options. I know that this makes tough decisions.
Good luck,
Keith
As to the action being strong enough to hold the 45-110, I have a 63 Sharps carbine that was re-barreled to 50-140. I have not noticed any problem with this firearm. The work was done for the previous owner by the “other” Sharps company and a new forearm was installed. He sold it to me after his dr. told him to quit shooting it as he had several vertebra fused in his neck. He did not have the original barrel or forearm, so the gun could not be restored.
If I may be so bold as to make a suggestion: Please leave the gun in original condition. I realize that this is your property and you may do with it as you wish, but consider the fact that this is also a piece of history that has been entrusted to your care. Because of the efforts of several people in the past 100+ years this gun exists for your enjoyment, and with reasonable care you may pass it on to future generations 100s of years from now. If you decide to re-barrel, keep the original parts so they may be reinstalled at a future date. Since it has been relined once perhaps this is the best way to go.
Another option if you just want a shooting gun sell or trade it for the type you want. This way your original Sharps will be undamaged. I am sure that there is a collector out there who would love to own a Sharps carbine regardless of bore condition.
I also own another 63 Sharps that was converted to 50-70 with a liner, then at some point the barrel was reamed out to 20 gauge shotgun. The bore is poor, and the top tang is broken, but I would never change this fine old gun from what it is. This gun possibly fought wars, Indian battles, or traveled west as a shotgun in the hands of an immigrant farmer.
I do not wish to presume to tell you what to do with your firearm, only in a friendly way to ask you to consider other options. I know that this makes tough decisions.
Good luck,
Keith
It is better to have a gun and not need it---