Pyrodex

[crashresidue]

Cheers to all,
This is my first post here - seems to be a friendly forum.
I've been on Greybeards a couple of times, but thanks to a computer melt-down, have since lost the site address - can anyone help?
Anyway, the title of the post is the problem - I live in Hawaii and you CAN'T get blackpowder here - unless you want to try to "boot-leg" it in and I'm not really looking forward to jail time to get the stuff! So, I use what I can find locally. Pyrodex.
The Shilo I have is a 45-110, that I bought used in a Bute MT pawn shop back in the early 80's for ( don't cry) $600 USD. It's got the #3 barrel (16#) and (now) a custom curley maple stock (bad idea - it requires cleaning from the muzzel only), but it sure looks pretty.
My problem stems from the fact that I've never really had the time to do the research and shooting to refine her into the accurate rifle that she is. I've always shot her with what ever round I could build with a "pac-tool" on the occasional weekend that I had time to waste.
Now, I've got 5 to 6 months per year ( after fire season, on the mainland) that are MINE and I'm trying to make-up for the lost time.
Now, for the "rest of the story" - I buy Bell brass and have found the actual length of the new brass may vary, to as much as .20" between the shortest and the longest in a box of 20. Is this the problem that I think it is as far as loading?
Is sizing that important? I cast a .458 slug, but recently have tried "sized" slugs in the .457 diameter. Honestly, I can't see the difference - but, it may be my shoddy reloading that's the problem!
Powder loads - I'm presently loading 55 grns of RS, by weight, with a greased wad over a cardboard wad. I'm thinking about upping(sp?) the load to 60 grns to insure uniform compression. With the 55 grn load, I'm right around 1200 fps through the crony. Too fast - too slow?
The old brass that came with this rifle is now failing. It's "OLD" RCBS Basic and it fails about 3/4 of an inch from the base and usually shows itself by cracking the brass, either lengthwise down the case or around the case. I talked to RCBS about it. Since I don't know how many times the previouse owner shot them, we just sort of agreed that I could shoot them till they failed. With the barrle she's got, it isn't a safety problem.
Any suggestions or advice offered will be appreciated. I've got a "fine lady" here that needs a lot of "make-up" love to let her, and me, to find out what she's really capable of.
Sorry for the long post.
Genlte winds,
Russ

[Kirk]

Hi Russ, I am kind of confused here, if this gun is a 45-110 it should hold a little more than 55 grains of pyrodex. The brass has to be trimmed to length ( 2.875). The bullet needs to measure .458 x .449 and weigh at least 500 grains, 540 being the best. You mentioned your shoddy reloading, I am here to tell you, 45-110 and shoddy do not mix and have an accurate outcome. You mention a problem, but you don't really say what the problem is, so this is about as much as I can help you. Sorry, Kirk Bryan

[Redhawk1]

Hello Russ here is Graybeards site. I hope it is ok to post.
http://www.graybeardoutdoors.com/phpbb2/index.php

[crashresidue]

Cheers Kirk,

Sorry I got verbose in the initial post - it was one of my "three drink letters" and I tend to do that after a bad day.

My problem is that I know nothing about how Pyrodex should be loaded in a 45-110 - for accuracy. Like I said somewhere in the other post, I can't get "the holy black" where I live.

I've shot it (Pyrodex) enough to know that after about 10 rounds, I'd best be cleaning the barrel ( actually, it's the throat that fouls, not the barrel). But, I don't know enough about how to load it. What's the best compression, what's the best way to clean up after a shoot - do I need to swab the barrel with white vinegar like I do the brass? Do I need to do a duplex load?

I use a lubed button in front of a cardboard button because I was told that the reason I was having "keyhole" problem with long range targets was that the barrel was "dry". Hince, the keyhole - it worked!

See, so many questions and not a lot of people to ask them too.

I need to talk to others that shoot Pyrodex in BPCR's. Or, just give me your best guess, if you only shoot "black".

My mold is a Lyman .460-322-132 and casts a 520 grain slug. If you have a better suggestion for a mold (sp), I'd sure like to have it.

Thanks for your time and trouble - sorry, this one is a little verbose too. It happens!

By the way, Pyrodex "replaces" black by volume, not weight. A full pyrodex cardridge will have less "weight" than one with "black". My "P" load is equivilant to 77 grns FFG and shows 55 grns on the scale. If I up it to 60 grns "P", it'll be about 85 grns FFG. Too hot - or not hot enough?

Thanks, and gentle winds,
Russ

[Kirk]

Hi Russ, What I would do is load the pyrodex by using a drop tube, I wouldn't comprees it to start with. The bullets need to be sized to .458, I wouldn't use a lube cookie, I would make a blow tube to use between shots and that will solve the fowling problem. I have seen some remarkable groups come in the shop from pyrodex, I think if you just do little changes one at a time here and there it will work out fine. You may want to order the SPG primer that we sell, it has some good loading advise in it. Hope this helps, Thanks Kirk

[rdnck]

I think that if I couldn't get black powder due to local laws where I lived, I would simply move. Either that, or rebarrel the rifle to a 45-70 and shoot 37 grains of 3031. That long 2 7/8 inch case loves to be filled with Goex 1f under a 550 grain bullet. You are just indulging in mental gymnastics and kidding yourself if you think you are going to get that 110 to shoot by using a Band Aid approach. This is a no drink post. Honest. rdnck.

[crashresidue]

Cheers rdnck,

Leave Maui for "the holy black"? - sorry, I don't think I could convince the wife that I hadn't lost my mind. And, I can guarantee that she'd have me committed before the powder cleared the drop tube.

But, I apperciate the advice! If I decide to go back to the "boot-legging" business, I'll try your prescription. But, for now Ill try what Kirk suggested - if that doesn't work, well, I'll break out the '50 Ford and go back to my roots.

Thanks to you both.

Gentle winds,
Russ

[Rich Siegel]

Russ,

About 20 years ago, before I knew anything about black powder cartridge reloading, or BP rifle shooting, I purchased an original '63 Sharps converted to 50/70. I bought some Dixie brass, a Lyman 515 mold and loaded Pyrodex rifle powder into the case until there was just enough room for the bullet to be seated. I used standard rifle primers. The carbine show dead on at 200 yards and grouped into a 6"x8" rectangle. Not bad for inexperience and a military carbine using original sights. As I recall, the temperature in Vermont at the time was about "0", shooting in a light covering of snow. I say this only to suggest that you start from the very basics, using rifle grade Pyrodex, a large rifle primer and a good soft lead bullet. Refine your loads as you go along, maybe using a wad, compression and magnum primers. But you maybe pleasantly surprised right from the start with little experimenting to do.

Good luck, Rich

[mountainman]

Back in the 80's I bought a 45/120 Sharps. Like a kid, I wanted something that was big and that is definitely what I ended up with. Where I live, I found that it was easier to get Pyrodex than it was anything else, so that is what I started out with. When I was using Pyrodex, it said that for every 10 grains of black powder, that all I needed was 8 grains of Pyrodex. I used 96 grains of powder with a 500 grain bullet and had no problem hitting what I aimed at. I started out with CTG, then went to RS, then finally to blackpowder. At that time in my life and still is now, the name of the game was to have fun. I have had fun shooting with whatever powder that I used. If you want accuracy, that could be a different question. My game is to have fun and that is what I have accomplished. Hope that this gives you some help.

[wofat]

well said mountainman