Stoney Point OAL gauge

[IronSight]

Been thinking on getting one of these as my home made OAL gauge has about seen its days. Does anyone have any experience with one of these? if so is it worth $30 (with case adapter)? Will the straight model work with a Sharps or is the curved model better?

Here's a link: http://www.gunaccessories.com/StoneyPoint/OAL.asp

Any info would be appreciated.

[taw1126]

IronSight:
I've been happy with my Stoney Point OAL gauge (straight model) and find it really easy to use. The downside is finding cases that will fit the tool and I think the only "off-the-shelf" BPCR case they list is .45-70; if I remenber correctly you can send them a couple of cases and they will convert them for use with the tool.

Trey

[8iowa]

I use a real simple method to measure maximum OAL. It's worked beautifully for over thirty years on all kinds of rifles.

Place the bullet in the leade hard up against the rifling, and hold it in place with a short dowell. A heavy rubber band is handy to keep pressure on the base of the bullet.

Put a flat nose jag on your cleaning rod and push it down the barrel until it contacts the nose of the bullet. With a sharp razor blade score a hash mark on the cleaning rod at the face of the barrel.

Then push the bullet out of the chamber, close the action and run the cleaning rod all the way to the face of the bolt, or block if thats the case. Make another hash mark on the rod.

Under a good light, measure the distance between the hash marks with vernior or dial calipers.

Now if you think that by using a mechanical device you can measure the OAL down to an exact .001 inch, consider the fact that bullets from the same lot can easily vary in length and shape enough to make such accuracy questionable. Even if all bullets were perfect, the seating die is not capable of producing cartridges with that kind of accuracy.

With Jacketed bullets I load cartridges at least .010 below my measured dimension, and usually more than that on hunting cartridges. This system has always worked for me, even on carefully crafted target loads.

[Omaha Poke]

I have cases for the .40-65 and the .45-70, both work great. You have to be carefull however with rifles like the Ballard, where the lever might try to swing closed by itself. I accidentally bent the guage right at the end of the screw where it is cut down for the half-open portion, and when I tried to gently straighten it back out, it broke. It is made of very light and thin aluminium and won't take much stress. Randy

[IronSight]

Thanks for the replies,
I'll probably order from Midsouth Shooters Supply as they have the best price i've found so far. $26.66 for the straight and $3.78 for the 45-70 case.

8iowa,
Here's how i measure with my home made contraption. I got a nice bright shiny fireformed case which allows the bullet to slide easily. I drilled out the primer hole a little larger than a 1/4" or so. Then i soldered a brass disc which is a little under the bullet base dia. to a 1/4" brass rod. Next i fabricated a steel collar out of 1/2" stock with a 1/4" hole ID and then drilled and tapped it for a set screw. I drilled the 1/4" hole a little offset from center for an adequate amount of set screw threads. Now either hot glue or contact cement the bullet base to the brass disc. Slide the bullet - brass rod deep into the case and then slide the collar over the rod. Chamber the case and keep pressure on it with a finger, push the bullet into the lands gently with the now attached rod and lock the rod position with the set screw. And finally eject the case and measure the OAL with the collar held against the case base. It works, the only problem is manipulating all this with my fat fingers.

[8iowa]

Ironsight:

Let me know how you make out with the new contraption. Who knows, you might even convince me to go high tech.