Recommendations for Long Range Target rifle

[PEteacher]

For those with BPCR Long Range Target (600+ yards) experience - please design me a Shiloh. I already have Shilos for silhouette, hunting, and general plinking. A range with 1300 yard capability is being built locally, so if you were to order a new Shiloh specifically for Long Range competition, what would you choose, staying within the 15 pound limit - model, cartridge, chamber, twist, barrel weight and length, sights, etc.? I shoot mostly paper patch, so mould suggestions also appreciated.

Jeff

[Dennis Armistead]

Jeff,
Here are some basics that I would follow, but in the end it's your dime so get what you want in extra features.
1. Pistol grip
2. Shotgun butt
3. .45 2.4 or .45 2.6 caliber. Probably the 2.4 if sensitive to continued heavy recoil.
4. 30" to 32" heavy barrel. Half round is preferred for cross stick shooting.
5. I like my target stocks checkered for better grip, but it's not for everyone.
6. The best sights you can afford. I shoot scope class and use MVA "A" class scope in 10X center less mill dots. Malcolm mounts. Iron shooters usually shoot some type of long staff Soule or Buffalo Soule sight for the windage needed for long range. An interchangeable front sight with level is a popular option as well.
7. Double set triggers.
Just my 2 cents. Hope this helps.
Dennis

[Don McDowell]

LRE, 32 in. heavy barrel. 45 2.4
Wood up grade to your desire.
MVA buffalo soule on the rear, Baldwin or Distant thunder on the front.

[Lumpy Grits]

Sure like my #1, 30" hvy bbl in .45-90.
Run a MVA Buffalo LR Soule on the rear with the MVA #113 on the front.
Gary

[John Boy]

MVA buffalo soule on the rear, Baldwin or Distant thunder on the front.

And be sure to order a foresight with a bubble level on it ... a tilted rifle off center at long range with no bubble will give one MOA's OFF POI

[BFD]

Creedmoor model, single trigger, .45 caliber 16" twist, probably .45-70. MAYBE .45-90, if you are sure to get right snug up to the 15# limit (and then not be able to use it for other things), otherwise .45-70. 32" heavy full octagon should make weight, but discuss this at length with Shiloh people.

[martinibelgian]

'77 model of course

[BFD]

'77 model of course

I'd go for the 74 personally

[Kenny Wasserburger]

If I were to do it all over,

A LRE with checkering, XX wood with the finish to go with, 32 inch barrel, full round. Caliber 45-100 2.6. Some engraving, my initials, French Gray. Or basically the same in a 1877.

Kenny Wasserburger

[desert deuce]

Basically, I am unaware of competitions in TARGET that shoot beyond 1,000 yards. You specified TARGET.
The final iteration of a TARGET RIFLE that I had built to shoot out to 1,000 yards had:
Shotgun Butt with high comb Creedmoor pistol grip checkered stock without cheekpiece cast off 3/8ths inch. (I am rt handed.)
45-90 standard match chamber, 34 inch "ROUND" Barrel (16 twist Round Shiloh Barrel just fine)
In long range TARGET competition I shoot grease groove bullets exclusively.

If I were to have another built it would be as above.

[SFogler]

1. Pistol grip***
2. Shotgun butt ***
3. .45 2.4 or .45 2.6*** caliber. Probably the 2.4 if sensitive to continued heavy recoil.
4. 30" to 32"*** heavy barrel***. Half round*** is preferred for cross stick shooting.
5. I like my target stocks checkered*** for better grip, but it's not for everyone.

*** I am having a Shiloh 1874 built just like this for 1000 yard shooting. It's in 45 2.6 because I am already invested in that caliber and don't have a 45-90. Plus this combination was produced originally by Sharps as a LR rifle from Dec 1876 till Aug 1877 then they went to 34" barrels and 45-90. The shotgun butt is FAR more comfortable than the military stock; especially since the gun is angled so high for 1000 yards, the corner of military stock digs in to your shoulder. Get a recoil pad you can wear not a detachable butt pad. You will need a cheek riser for iron sights since the eyepiece is way high on the staff for LR. A cheek riser and detachable butt pad at the same time is a bit much. A buffalo soule sight is highly recommended for the extra windage. The MVA is the best I have tried by far; in fact I have two and one of them will be dedicated to this new rifle only. I like Distant Thunder front sights because I see the level better with it; although a windage front sight can certainly come in handy.

[bruce m]

where I shoot, a windage foresight con on occasion be an absolute necessity.
one reason is to get enough adjustment to hit the target.
the other is that when you have huge windage on the rear sight, your head will press onto or move away from the stock, causing variations in the hold.
if you need 30 moa, it is just better to put 20 on the front sight, then make ongoing adjustment on the rear.
the further you go past 1000 yds the more useful the windage sight will become.
far be it for me to disagree with zack, but I would go for no cast in the stock.
reason is that a consistent hold is seriously required to not affect poi sideways.
if I were to do a new rifle now it would have the tight pp chamber for bore diameter bullets.
do not rule out a 40/90 ballard with a 13" twist to equal the big 45s in the wind with less recoil.
make cases from 9.3x74 rimmed.
bruce.

[Don McDowell]

Bruce have you ever used an MVA buffalo soul sight?
Baldwin and Hoke sights also allow for a great deal of windage adjustment.
Biggest problem with the windguage fronts, if you get that 20 some odd minutes adjusted into that sight, and then the wind reverses, or lets up, you have to unload the rifle , break position move the front sight, and then start the whole process over. With the windage on the rear, a quick reach and turn of the dial, and you're back in the game.

[ChrisF]

I have an 1874 Shiloh. It's a 45-2.6 34" heavy barrel upgraded wood cheek rest Hartford collar polished barrel and screws and brass escutcheon. Really sweet rifle.

[Dennis Armistead]

Bruce have you ever used an MVA buffalo soul sight?
Baldwin and Hoke sights also allow for a great deal of windage adjustment.
Biggest problem with the windguage fronts, if you get that 20 some odd minutes adjusted into that sight, and then the wind reverses, or lets up, you have to unload the rifle , break position move the front sight, and then start the whole process over. With the windage on the rear, a quick reach and turn of the dial, and you're back in the game.

Very good point Don. I have never shot with a windguage front sight because I never wanted to worry about more moving parts coming loose during a match. I like the K.I.S.S method when I compete.
Dennis