Does anyone have any info on loading the ever popular 1873 Maynard
35-30 ? So far I've located cases from Rocky Mt Ctg, and ordered a mold
in .366 (bore slugs at .367), but I ca't be choosey.
I'm guessing that it will use Swiss #2 - maybe 35gr ; but I know 38 cal
wads would be too oversized. I'm also unsure about OAL in this round. The books don't seem to cover the old THICK rim cartridges; only the 1882 types.
I realize I'm probably on my own, but I figure that somebody might have
some experience and save me some time getting this oldie back shooting
again. Thanks,
1873 Maynard 35-30 loading
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granute
- Posts: 126
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- Location: Glendale Arizona
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Rich Siegel
- Posts: 610
- Joined: Thu Sep 26, 2002 7:53 am
- Location: Maine
Granute,
"A Guide to the Maynard Breechloader" by George Layman states that the 35/30 case length is 1.63", bullet diameter of .364 but no overall length for the loaded cartridge is given. I'd try making a dummy cartridge by sliding the bullet into an empty case but seated far out in the case. Then, slide the case into the chamber, pushing the bullet down into the case as you close the breech. Remove the case, hopefully with the bullet still in the case and measure. If the bullet stayed in the rifling, try again but use a dowl to gently push the bullet out from the muzzle while you remove the case.
I had a 35/30 but could never get it to shoot. Good luck and tell us how you make out.
"A Guide to the Maynard Breechloader" by George Layman states that the 35/30 case length is 1.63", bullet diameter of .364 but no overall length for the loaded cartridge is given. I'd try making a dummy cartridge by sliding the bullet into an empty case but seated far out in the case. Then, slide the case into the chamber, pushing the bullet down into the case as you close the breech. Remove the case, hopefully with the bullet still in the case and measure. If the bullet stayed in the rifling, try again but use a dowl to gently push the bullet out from the muzzle while you remove the case.
I had a 35/30 but could never get it to shoot. Good luck and tell us how you make out.
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Trigger Dr
- Posts: 1944
- Joined: Wed Feb 19, 2003 5:10 pm
- Location: Pacific North WET (Port Orchard)
Granute,
If the bullet sticks in the rifling, the option is as follows.
Using and UNMARKED bullet put it into the case with a long overall length and a slight friction fit. Measure the OAL, then insert the round into the chamber, closing the action. upon extraction if the bullet sticks, lightly tap it out and measure the rifiling engraving and subtract this measurement from the OAL. This should give you the OAL for just touching the rifling.
JIM
If the bullet sticks in the rifling, the option is as follows.
Using and UNMARKED bullet put it into the case with a long overall length and a slight friction fit. Measure the OAL, then insert the round into the chamber, closing the action. upon extraction if the bullet sticks, lightly tap it out and measure the rifiling engraving and subtract this measurement from the OAL. This should give you the OAL for just touching the rifling.
JIM
Direct ALL e-Mail to jimrmilner@juno.com
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granute
- Posts: 126
- Joined: Thu Dec 30, 2004 10:48 pm
- Location: Glendale Arizona
Thanks all...
I've sent off to Buffalo Arms for the book....
When I 'extract' a case, I actually EXTRACT the case. Dr. Maynard must
have figured that your fingers should be used for something more than
exploring your nostrills. When I grip the rim to pull the case out, either
the bullet (if snug) stays in the chamber ; or ; if loose, falls out in the chamber. There didn't appear to be any throat indicated on the chamber
cast, so I guess this is one of those situations where you load the powder
and seat the bullet gradually, untill the whole thing chambers freely. If I
cast the bullet from pure lead, the shirinkage should be sufficient to get it
in for a 'fire-forming' load. I'll worry about load development later.
As for OAL ; I guess I'll try seating to the origin of the ogive. The case
mouth mikes at .400, so I've arranged to borrow a .40S&W die from an
Officer, so that I can use it to 'size the mouth to hold the bullet'. Maybe.
When I 'extract' a case, I actually EXTRACT the case. Dr. Maynard must
have figured that your fingers should be used for something more than
exploring your nostrills. When I grip the rim to pull the case out, either
the bullet (if snug) stays in the chamber ; or ; if loose, falls out in the chamber. There didn't appear to be any throat indicated on the chamber
cast, so I guess this is one of those situations where you load the powder
and seat the bullet gradually, untill the whole thing chambers freely. If I
cast the bullet from pure lead, the shirinkage should be sufficient to get it
in for a 'fire-forming' load. I'll worry about load development later.
As for OAL ; I guess I'll try seating to the origin of the ogive. The case
mouth mikes at .400, so I've arranged to borrow a .40S&W die from an
Officer, so that I can use it to 'size the mouth to hold the bullet'. Maybe.
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Ray Newman
- Posts: 3817
- Joined: Wed Sep 25, 2002 1:22 pm
- Location: between No Where & No Place, WA
Have you tried contacting Larry Romano? He’s making reproductions of the Civil War Maynards & eh make some info on the later models or steer you in the right direction.
http://www.romanorifle.com/index.html
Also here is another link to a Maynard site that’s under construction. However, it does have an e-mail address. Maybe a inquiry to that address might be helpful?
http://www.efs1.com/maynard/index.html
http://www.romanorifle.com/index.html
Also here is another link to a Maynard site that’s under construction. However, it does have an e-mail address. Maybe a inquiry to that address might be helpful?
http://www.efs1.com/maynard/index.html
Grand PooBah
WA ST F. E. S.
In real life may you be the bad ass that you claim to be on social media....
WA ST F. E. S.
In real life may you be the bad ass that you claim to be on social media....
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granute
- Posts: 126
- Joined: Thu Dec 30, 2004 10:48 pm
- Location: Glendale Arizona
Maynard Repoductions
I sent off the original firing pin to Mr. Romano so he could make a new
proper lenght replacement. Mr. Romano makes a reproduction of the civil
war Maynard carbine as well as a M1882 Maynard which is chambered for
the typical BPCR cartridges. He knows the M1873, but doesn't make one.
He also had little info on the ammo, focusing on the mechanics of the
Maynard system. From what I've picked up over the last few days from a
pair of NSSA members I know back in Illinois, they say his work is truly
outstanding. Perhaps we'll start seeing Maynards poping up at some of the
shoots in the near future.
I'll check out the reference site you've given, and thanks.
proper lenght replacement. Mr. Romano makes a reproduction of the civil
war Maynard carbine as well as a M1882 Maynard which is chambered for
the typical BPCR cartridges. He knows the M1873, but doesn't make one.
He also had little info on the ammo, focusing on the mechanics of the
Maynard system. From what I've picked up over the last few days from a
pair of NSSA members I know back in Illinois, they say his work is truly
outstanding. Perhaps we'll start seeing Maynards poping up at some of the
shoots in the near future.
I'll check out the reference site you've given, and thanks.
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granute
- Posts: 126
- Joined: Thu Dec 30, 2004 10:48 pm
- Location: Glendale Arizona
As an update I have found the.366 NEI bullet too small- even in 40:1 alloy,
I thought it would upset to .368, but at 50yds. the 'group' ran about 8".
NEI added a second cavity - casting a bullet of 275 gr - but this keyholes.
I'm going with a custom mold ... If anyone else is/has worked with the
35-30 or 35-40 1865/1873 Maynards, I'd appreciate your comments.
I thought it would upset to .368, but at 50yds. the 'group' ran about 8".
NEI added a second cavity - casting a bullet of 275 gr - but this keyholes.
I'm going with a custom mold ... If anyone else is/has worked with the
35-30 or 35-40 1865/1873 Maynards, I'd appreciate your comments.