RCBS Lead Furnace Switch issue

[omgb]

I am lazy. It's a fact. A friend of a friend passed away 6+ years ago and I bought 3 of his lead pots off his widow. Two were RCBS 20 lb pots from the 1980s, one was a SAECO pot that had to come from the mid 60s. I mean geez, when is the last time you saw a cloth insulated power cord? Anyway, over time4, each of the RCBS switches failed. I called RCBS. They sent me the last two switches they had. This was about 2017. Well, I never fixed either pot and just used the SAECO. In fact, she's still working now. However, it's time to replace those RCBS switches and get to using them. The trouble is, I'm not sure how to open that case. I can drill out the rivets easily enough, but do I have to pull the pot too or can I just lift one side enough to replace the switch.? Anyone ever done this repair?

[77 sharps]

As I recall, I only removed the side and used zip screws to put it back together. You should not need to remove the pot. Now I just buy 20# Lee pots. Never had a problem with one. The replacement thermostat for the RCBS pot is not working right again.

[bobw]

When the switch went bad in one of mine. My dad looked at it pulled the switch rewired it direct so it goes on when you seat the plug in the outlet. Bobw

[omgb]

I was tempted to do just that. But I have the switch so why not use it

[bobw]

Twisted both blacks together and a wire nut plus a wire nut on the white.

[bpcrshooter62]

hi is it a rocker switch? do you have a pic of it ?

[omgb]

It is an illuminated rocker. It lights when power comes on to the heating element. I can shoot a pic later today

[steveu834]

I bypassed my switch to hook up a pid for it. The case is held together with rivets that are easily drilled out.

[bpcrshooter62]

ok if you look at the new switch on each side of the switch you may see a tab that if you push on them they should claps when you let go they will expand again. If that is the type of switch you have there will be no need to open the case at all . just use a couple of small flat screwdrivers on the switch that is in the box now and push the tabs in on each side and pull the old switch out unhook the wires hook the new switch on to the wires and push the new switch back in where the old one was and wula you are done !!! lol enjoy it can be that easy lol

[omgb]

Wow, I’ll have to check

[bpcrshooter62]

I used to run an electronic repair shop lol hope it works out easy for you keep shooting and have fun

[omgb]

The replacement switches they sent are indeed, tabbed with a tab on each side that will no doubt, snap into place. The switches have 3 tabs on the back labeled 1,2,3. My guess is the originals are set up the same way. If so, Im in good.

[bpcrshooter62]

sounds good let me know how you make out take care and keep shooting and having fun !!!

[omgb]

OK, the Job is done and I now have 2 working RCBS ProMelt pots up and running.

The switches did have the retaining clips but....the previous owner had affected his own "repair" by holding the switches in the case with silicone calk. Geez, what a mess. It makes sense, my friend was a retired small engine and equipment tech for LA Unified Schools. I would imagine "good enough" was his pragmatic approach. Indeed, it had worked for many years. It's just that the switches themselves crapped out.

So, I drilled out the four rivets holding the sides of the case. I then removed the thermostat control knob. Now, I don't know who made these units for RCBS, but whomever did, was an idiot. The thermostat had a flat side on the knob shaft. The knob has a set screw. Wouldn't you think the set screw would impinge on the flat portion of the shaft thus making a secure connection? Nope, it just pinches the round portion of the shaft. Ugh.

When I opened the case, job one was to hog out all of the silicone calk. Now the case did not want to fully open. So I pried my grandson's wooden slingshot handle in the gap and wedged it open. That permitted me to get some putty knives in there and pry off the caulk. Then I snipped off the tabs top and bottom, that were supposed to snap the switch into place. Once the switch was free, I pulled it through the case exposing the connecting wires. Two were identically colored one was black. I noted which was connected to which numbered spade and used surgical clamps to keep them from retreating into the case. Then one by one, I pried off the connector wires and swapped them over to the new switch. First however, I gave everything a shot of contact cleaner.

I popped the switch into the case and reinstalled the thermostat knob. I turned the pot to its lowest setting as required in the op manual and turned the unit on. It lit! I waited a few minutes and set the pot at 650. After 4-5 minutes I touched the pot and found it to be heating up. Repair complete. That saved me what, $900 for two new pots.

Thank to you guys who gave me cogent input. I appreciate it. Now back to casting! BTW, This weekend I'll be in Castaic CA at a Boy Scout camp teaching Black Powder shooting to a group of 40 scoutmasters. Wish me well and pray for patience and diligence.
Reece