Water soluble cutting oil (NAPA OIL)

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Big 50
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Post by Big 50 »

Brent wrote:Ask again. I had to ask twice.

I tell ya what. I'll mail him my bottle. B50 send my your address in a PM so Mulhoon can relax.
I appreciate the generous offer, but I just mixed up about 24oz.That should be enough to hold me a while.
Brent
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Post by Brent »

Good luck I hope it works.

I found that my NAPA could not find "water soluble oil" until I gave them a part number. Next time, if you have that (I can get it off my bottle), they should be able to look it up and find it under whatever they call it. And there it was on the shelf for rows over.
Just straddling the hard line between "the arrogance of dogmatism and the despair of skepticism"
Big 50
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Post by Big 50 »

Yeah the guys at the stores here don't have a clue.The 24oz spray bottle I mixed up should last me a good while.I hope it works too.I have never had enough hot air to make a blow tube work. :wink: ... :lol:
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Tasmanian Rebel
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Post by Tasmanian Rebel »

Big 50, to answer your original question, I don't think it makes a lot of difference on the ratio. Folks are having success using it from a 4:1 water to oil all the way out to 10:1 (what I use). I started out with a 5:1 ratio several years ago and went to 10:1 a couple of years ago when my oil got low and didn't notice any difference in accuracy when I had to stretch the oil a bit thin so just stuck with that. Makes sense too as the best solvent for BP fouling is plain ole water. That being said if I worked up an accurate load with whatever ratio I wouldn't change it at an important match without testing it at home first. I use NAPA "Cutting and Grinding Oil" item number 765-1525 if that helps you any. Off the top of my head the container looks like it holds about a gallon of oil at that item # and it's fairly cheap too.
Keith Lay
Last edited by Tasmanian Rebel on Wed Dec 16, 2009 6:02 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Big 50
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Post by Big 50 »

Tasmanian Rebel wrote:Big 50, to answer your original question, I don't think it makes a lot of difference on the ratio. Folks are having success using it from a 4:1 water to oil all the way out to 10:1 (what I use). I started out with a 5:1 ratio several years ago and went to 10:1 a couple of years ago when my oil got low and didn't notice any difference in accuracy when I had to stretch the oil a bit thin so just stuck with that. Makes sense too as the best solvent for BP fouling is plain ole water. That being said if I worked up an accurate load with whatever ratio I wouldn't change it at an important match without testing it at home first. I use NAPA "Cutting and Grinding Oil" item number 765-1525 if that helps you any.
Keith Lay
Thanks, That is what I was looking for.
oh-behi
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Post by oh-behi »

Big 50 wrote:Some use 20% Ballistol and water.The water soluble cutting oil is hard to find in my area.Guess I will try both and see if there is any difference.
Big50 order it online. You obviously have a computer

http://www.napaonline.com
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Marcruger
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Post by Marcruger »

I've been using the NAPA oil mixed with Windex With Vinegar. It stays in soultion fine, and seems to keep the bore wiped out better for me than NAPA oil and water. I am not expert, and don't have the experience the rest of you do. However, I like the way the Windex scrubs out the fouling a bit with each wipe, and the NAPA keeps what remains relatively soft. Just experimenting, but I like the result so far. After I finish shooting, I clean with straight Windex With Vinegar and then Shiloh Creek Bore Solvent. I rarely get more than a sparkle of lead with 20:1 when cleaning. God Bless, Marc
Jim Kidwell
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Post by Jim Kidwell »

Clay,

We have a match this Saturday. If you want the oil, I will have it for you. Just let me know..........................JimK
Steve Rhoades
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Post by Steve Rhoades »

The inclusion of the antifungal additive is the reason Kidwell keeps a bottle of the oil in his trunk!!!
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RMulhern
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DAN???????

Post by RMulhern »

Dan

My NAPA WSO is a 'greenish' color as it comes in the container and when mixed with water...it, in combo with the H20 is still at that color. I have let some of this stand in a plastic container over time....with patches soaking over say....a period of 3 weeks...maybe a month and the 'greenish coloration' evolves into a white/milky type conditon...somewhat 'clabberish'! I have been told by my machine shop buddy that at that time.....the material has lost it's initial content or has what some would say...'broken down'!!

What say you??

Thanks!
There is no freedom without.......GUN POWDER!
Steve Rhoades
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Post by Steve Rhoades »

Rick,
I have the same thing happen but don't see any ill effects.
The oil we use in our machines is never changed only replenished and it continues to work just fine. The dirty oil is skimmed off and more oil/water mixture is added.
If it goes bad, which is caused by using unpurified water, it will stink to high heaven!!
Steve R.
AZ.
Dan,
Kidwell needs more that oil to make that happen!!
"MY Life with Industrial Debutantes" is a real SHORT story by Jim Kidwell
Kenny Wasserburger
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Post by Kenny Wasserburger »

My Nappa cutting oil is white after mixing with Distilled water. Stays that way patches 4 months old in the container dont get moldy and are still damp.

Some rust protection too and the anti-fungal thing Dan T Mentions is my reason for using it.

my Mix is 1 part oil to 4 parts water, and seems to do just dandy a job.

KW

The Lunger
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Wyoming Territory Sharps Shooter
Big 50
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Post by Big 50 »

I have no idea what brand of cutting oil I have.It is blue/green in color.
Guess that will be a problem,or are they all basically the same thing?
Brent
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Post by Brent »

blue green sounds like copper sulfate - a fungicide.
Just straddling the hard line between "the arrogance of dogmatism and the despair of skepticism"
Big 50
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Post by Big 50 »

We use to use copper sulfate to treat foot rot in horses.It is not the same color as what I have.That was more green in color.
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