457132 or 457125 which one?

[pete]

I'm trying to make up my mind between these two Lyman molds. I had originally intended to get a Steve Brooks but since I'm also getting an MVA vernier along with a melting pot, thermometer, alloy etc. as well as making sure the competition thing is for me I'll opt for the Lyman for now. I cast hunting bullets from a Lyman 457193 and it works ok but I know target accuracy is different. The new mold and accessories will be for silhouette and maybe some long range in my new #3 Sporter 45/70. I've read alot about the 457125 but I haven't heard nearly as much about the 457132 and was wondering if results with it were generally good. It looks like it might be better for the longer ranges maybe. I did do a search here about it and deerhuntsheatmeup gave it good reviews . Comparing pictures of both it seems like lube carrying ability is about the same so that should be ok. Also I'm curious what the dimension is from the base of bullet to top of the lube grooves with these two? I want to load with all lube grooves covered and so compare for case capacity. Thanks

[ERICH]

Hi Pete,
I have both molds and of the two, both my Shilohs (MRR 2.1 and a LRE 2.4) seemed to like the 457132 better. I dont have my log book handy or I could give you the demensions you were asking for. My advice would be to forget about both those molds and go right for the Brooks. Both Steve Brooks and Paul Jones make wonderful molds. Your casting sessions will be much smoother and in my case, both my rifles love the Brooks bullet.

[MRich]

Pete:

If you can't afford a Paul Jones mould # 45001, I would recommend the 457132 Postell.

However you would be happier with the Paul Jones mould. President of the "Been there done that club".

MRich

[rdnck]

Pete--All three of my Shiloh 45-70's shoot the 457132 very well. It is a hard bullet to beat. Shoot straight, rdnck.

[Ron Williams]

Pete, both of these bullets have worked well for me in either my 45-70 or my 45-110. The 457132 measures .665 from the base to the fromt band and the 457125 measures .635 from the base to the front band.

[Smokin]

Gentlemen,

Far be it from me to think that I could toss another log onto this fire, but a perverse nature compels me to comment. I have had the best luck with two bullets, one discussed here, one not: the PJ Creedmoor and the SEACO 745. My shorter distance shooting has been best done with a 745, and that is up to about 800 yards (this is in a .45-70) . Long range shooting, for me, has been the best served with the PJ Creedmoor (and this is with my .45-2.6"). Good luck, Smokin

ps, there just aren't any easy choices.

[Outrider]

Smokin''
Do you have the P. Jones 45001? Is it "standard" or does it have the first driving band reduced to bore diameter? And here's a really dumb question. What is it that makes the custom moulds so much better than factory ones? Everyone says that they are but no one has said why.

[Smokin]

Outrider,

Mine is the "standard" 45001 and it casts a bullet very close to the listed 540 grains with a 25:1 alloy. I suspect that the edge given by the better custom moulds is that they cast a bullet which more closely approaches a true cylinder than do the others. I think this is largely due to their being lathe bored with a single point tool. Multi-edge cutters, like cherries, can contribute to small amounts of chatter while cutting and this will produce a hole which is not round. Even if this out of round condition is miniscule, it can contribute to minor instability as the bullet tries to find its way to the target. I try to keep my loads as uniform as possible in all aspects , then, when the bullet strikes otherwhere than was intended, I can blame myself rather than the mechanical devices I'm using. "It is a good craftsman who knows when to blame the tools." Then again, when all the tools are up to snuff...we can blame the weather!! Smokin

[pete]

Thanks for the help guys. I knew I could get some here. Erich, MRich I'd like to get a premium mold but with recently getting the rifle and now the accessories I need to keep the cost manageable. Also I'd like to make sure I really like the organized competition thing before I go all out. I've always had a thing for Sharps and Remington rolling blocks but haven't done alot of competition shooting.
Thanks for the dims. Ron. I take it those are to the top (part of band closest to the nose) of the band. There's not that much difference in them.
It looks like everybody gives the 457132 pretty good ratings. I think I'm leaning that way.
Smokin I had some 745's that I bought and they shot pretty good in my Lonestar rolling block but in Colorado where it's real dry I had some questions about their lube groove capacity. Thanks again.

[Tasmanian Rebel]

Pete, I have both moulds and my guns prefer the Postell although both moulds are good. You can't go wrong with either one but I would definetly go with the Postell.

[Ron Williams]

Pete, yes those numbers are from the base to the top of the front band and you are welcome.

[JAGG]

Pete ! Lyman used to sell their cast bullets for these and the pointy bullet at 20 at a time . See if you can buy them and then try to see which your rifle will shoot best with before buying the mould ! I have both and one rifle likes one better then the other, and another likes the other ! Go Figure ! JAGG

[pete]

Thanks for the idea JAGG. I checked the Lyman site and they have the Postell at about $15.00 for 50. I didn't see the round nose. I'll probably just order the 457132 and work with it and see if I can get a good load. Thanks to everybody for the help.

[Lead Pot]

pete
I just sent 50 bullets to a guy,The shiping was almost $10.
you just about have a Lyman mould payed for by paying 15 for bullets and 10 shiping.I think the Lyman moulds are about $50.less the handles.
Kurt

[Ken Hartlein]

GAR reloading has Lyman molds for the best price I've found. www.garreloading.com