Shiloh Rifle Forums

Hard to tell for sure, because one side of the bullet is in shadow, but it sure looks like you're upsetting the bullet by using it to compress the powder.

No comparison to a compression plug from BA. Then, use the math to set the wad to the point that the base of the bullet just touches it, and set the seater die so you can't upset the bullet.

I use a 0.457" expander plug, which gives me ~0.002" neck tension, and the flare diameter is 0.460", which just allows the bullet to start and seat smoothly. The Saeco Competition seater reduces the flare, so no trouble chambering a loaded cartridge. IMO, no crimp is necessary.

More than one way to do things; that's the reason for the apparently conflicting advice.

Clarence

I will have to measure my expander plug, I do not have the tool to measure runout, but looking at the rifling marks, they don't appear to be noticeably off from each other.

Lumpy Grits wrote:YUP-if you are compressing with the bullet(VERY BAD IDEA ), you are swelling the nose.
G.

Lumpy, you kept telling me that when I first got my 45/2.4 Shiloh. Took me a while to pay attention. Now I just take a random loaded shell and invert it in the muzell of the rifle. If it goes in to the first full size band then it will chamber fine.
Thanks Lumpy you have saved me more than once.

Steve

Marks are where it engages when inserted into the muzzle, these were sized in an NOE push through die, so no pressure on the nose.

Nose is to 'fat'.
Get ahold of Steve Brooks and get a mold made correctly.
http://brooksmoulds.com/
I recommend the Brooks Creedmoor at 540gn. You want a .448-.449 dia nose.
What maker, is this mould you are using now?
G.

That is from a Lyman 457125 mold. I will just have to shoot lighter bullets until I can get a new mold, as I am not shooting beyond 300 yards for now, the 415 and 420 grain bullets I cast for my Marlin and Ruger #1 will have to suffice. I have been looking at Brooks Molds, and the molds at Buffalo Arms.

Try pan lubing, after sizing.
Can you drop the bullet nose first, into the muzzle as cast? Does it stop at the first band?
G.

No sir, as cast the nose measures . 451, I tried water quenching to see if it might shrink a bit as a few of my pistol bullets do, but it was the same measurement. I also discovered the nose is slightly out of round, in spots it measures .450. I will stick with the BP, but try some of my lighter bullets.

Call Lyman and tell them the mould is out of round and the nose is to 'fat' to chamber.
G.

Trying to contact Lyman now, not hopeful as I have owned the mold for a few years.

Take the empty mold, close it with the handles. Then look through the open end with the spur plate swung out of the way. ( A bright light behind the mold will help) If you can see any light between the mold helves there is a small amount of build up on the matting surface of the blocks. This will cause the bullet to be out of round and over sized. Don't ask how I know. Check both halves of the block and the guide pins and the guide pin holes very closely. Paul Jones does not make out of round molds, but I can cause them to be out of round. Just a thought. Good luck.

Steve

Have had excellent customer service from Lyman over the years.

Asking any maker for a perfectly round mould may be asking a bit much.

And, as a famous world class rifleman and renown gunsmith once remarked,
"the trip down the bore will make them round."

indeed the trip down the barrel will shape them up, but will the centre of mass be on the geometric axis?
keep safe,
bruce.

Perfectly round is too much to ask. I will do a thorough inspection of the blocks to see if they aren't properly closing.

Bruce, Bruce, Geometry in the classroom. It is Targetometry on the range.