I have a 45-110(#3 with a 16#) waiting at the gun shop, unfortunately it will be about a month before I get back to SD and am able to pick it up, man I can't wait to see and shoot that gun! Anyway, I have been doing as much reading (via this forum and a few books) on loading the 45-110. I realize these questions are "old" topics but I guess I am looking for definitive answers, if they exist, before I start odering my loading supplies. First, I have an old Rock Chucker(not the Supreme), will I have enough clearance to size and seat the 2 & 7/8 brass with that press?
Second, the more I read on which brass to use the more unsure I am on which one to order. I guess I am leaning towards the Norma, because the it seems that the consensus(from reading not my experience) is that it is the most consistently reliable "fit". I am wondering if it is mandatory to prepare( a process called annealing(sp) which I read about on this forum but am unsure of how to do) or can I simply size<&>shorten the cases and then fire them? Would the Buffalo Arms brass be a better choice to get me started shooting? Thanks!
new to loading the 45-110
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PJ:
I am using my Rock Chucker for loading 45-110. As Kirk pointed out, it is close. I push the bullet into the seating die and hold it with my right hand and place the case into the shell holder with my left hand. I then let the bullet slide into the case mouth. It is workable, but I am soon going to order a newer model with a larger opening for the longer cases. I needed so much new equipment to start the BP game that I had to use the Rock Chucker in the short haul. It will work.
I am using the Buffalo Arms stretched brass made from Winchester 348 Cases. It is adequate, but I am looking forward to trying some Norma Cases. I have shot most of my cases less than ten times each, and I have had to trim case length twice. I find that unusual for straight walled cases, but my prior experience with straight walled cases was smokeless pistol cases.
Don
I am using my Rock Chucker for loading 45-110. As Kirk pointed out, it is close. I push the bullet into the seating die and hold it with my right hand and place the case into the shell holder with my left hand. I then let the bullet slide into the case mouth. It is workable, but I am soon going to order a newer model with a larger opening for the longer cases. I needed so much new equipment to start the BP game that I had to use the Rock Chucker in the short haul. It will work.
I am using the Buffalo Arms stretched brass made from Winchester 348 Cases. It is adequate, but I am looking forward to trying some Norma Cases. I have shot most of my cases less than ten times each, and I have had to trim case length twice. I find that unusual for straight walled cases, but my prior experience with straight walled cases was smokeless pistol cases.
Don
- wolfie
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if you want to be good to your self get an redding ultramag big opening and longest piston stroke i could find on a press http://www.natchezss.com/category.cfm?c ... N=55175918
i out fited mine with a hornady lock and load bushing so die changes are fast and trouble free all most as good a turet press and easer to store the dies with out extra turets and cheeper to.love mine also i agree i like the norma brass the best so far.
i out fited mine with a hornady lock and load bushing so die changes are fast and trouble free all most as good a turet press and easer to store the dies with out extra turets and cheeper to.love mine also i agree i like the norma brass the best so far.
B.J. Spalding
"I came I saw and I forgot why I am here."
SHILOH#1
"I came I saw and I forgot why I am here."
SHILOH#1
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PJ
two other presses that are really good are the RCBS Ammo Master Press http://www.natchezss.com/category.cfm?c ... N=55175918 and the Corbin S press http://www.bulletswage.com/prcsp-1.htm
The ammo master (with adapter) loads .50 bmg, wish I had one to load for my .50. but I got a good deal on the corbin, it is massive, weighs over 35 lbs. I think i'll use it to swage paper patch bullets.
both of these presses are very stable the corbin has absolutely no slop or play and easily full length resizes any case that fits. I have a much smaller press and it was a real strain to full length resize 45/110 and 40/70ss.
keith
two other presses that are really good are the RCBS Ammo Master Press http://www.natchezss.com/category.cfm?c ... N=55175918 and the Corbin S press http://www.bulletswage.com/prcsp-1.htm
The ammo master (with adapter) loads .50 bmg, wish I had one to load for my .50. but I got a good deal on the corbin, it is massive, weighs over 35 lbs. I think i'll use it to swage paper patch bullets.
both of these presses are very stable the corbin has absolutely no slop or play and easily full length resizes any case that fits. I have a much smaller press and it was a real strain to full length resize 45/110 and 40/70ss.
keith
Some originals and some Shilohs.
Molon Labe
Molon Labe
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Another good press to try,
The C&H model 444, its a H press with 4 die stations, while its not a turrent press its a progressive of sorts and loads fast! It has more then enough room for the 45-110 case, Its the press that I use now. With good seating dies and care, one can load ammo that is for sure match Grade.
The only other press I can personaly reconmend is the Ultra Mag Redding as previous mentioned.
My old Rockchucker does work but it is slow.
Kenny Wasserburger
Knight Commander FES
The C&H model 444, its a H press with 4 die stations, while its not a turrent press its a progressive of sorts and loads fast! It has more then enough room for the 45-110 case, Its the press that I use now. With good seating dies and care, one can load ammo that is for sure match Grade.
The only other press I can personaly reconmend is the Ultra Mag Redding as previous mentioned.
My old Rockchucker does work but it is slow.
Kenny Wasserburger
Knight Commander FES
We'll raise up our Glasses against Evil Forces, Singing, Whiskey for my men, Beer for my horses.
Wyoming Territory Sharps Shooter
Wyoming Territory Sharps Shooter
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Thanks for all the help and ideas! I have one other question that I forgot to ask in regards to the annealing process. What is the proper sequence(or does it matter?)? Do I anneal first, then trim, then size and then trim again if necessary when working with the new 45 basic brass? Thanks again?
Paul
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This looks like an application for the Vickerman seating die. The press only has to clear the case, the bullet goes in through the side port in the die. Less expensive than a new press.
http://www.gmwvickerman.com/
I do NOT have one, a .38-55 does not have press clearance problems.
Maybe somebody here has one to report on.
http://www.gmwvickerman.com/
I do NOT have one, a .38-55 does not have press clearance problems.
Maybe somebody here has one to report on.
- Lee Stone
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I don't really know what the PROPER sequence is, but I anneal, size, then trim because the sizing can affect the length.
By the way, I have aquired an automatic annealing machine made by Ken Light. It has a fairly short learning curve and I like it 1000% better that the old method of standing the brass in a pan of water, heating them and knocking the over into the water. All I have to do is set up the machine, feed brass into it and let the annealed brass drop into a box. If you want to look at it, here is Ken Lights web site. Just scroll down the page and you will find it.
http://www.kenlightmfg.com/products.html
By the way, I have aquired an automatic annealing machine made by Ken Light. It has a fairly short learning curve and I like it 1000% better that the old method of standing the brass in a pan of water, heating them and knocking the over into the water. All I have to do is set up the machine, feed brass into it and let the annealed brass drop into a box. If you want to look at it, here is Ken Lights web site. Just scroll down the page and you will find it.
http://www.kenlightmfg.com/products.html
Lee Stone