Shiloh Rifle Forums

A re-cap of the instructions provided by Kirk....


1. Replace spring as normal, leaving about .010 daylight showing between the mounting lug and the surface of the spring, it should be loose enough to move fore and aft

2. Move the spring forward or aft to get the pressure on the lever just enough to get the breech block loading groove level with the trough in the receiver. They should line up for a smooth transition as the ctdg. slides into the chamber

3. Tighten spring down to hold it in place

4. DO NOT Snap the lever open or closed, the shock of the snapping action creates added stress that creates much of the issues that weaken the spring

When the new spring arrives I'll install it as directed and provide an update if warranted.

A re-cap of the instructions provided by Kirk....


1. Replace spring as normal, leaving about .010 daylight showing between the mounting lug and the surface of the spring, it should be loose enough to move fore and aft

2. Move the spring forward or aft to get the pressure on the lever just enough to get the breech block loading groove level with the trough in the receiver. They should line up for a smooth transition as the ctdg. slides into the chamber

3. Tighten spring down to hold it in place

4. DO NOT Snap the lever open or closed, the shock of the snapping action creates added stress that creates much of the issues that weaken the spring

When the new spring arrives I'll install it as directed and provide an update if warranted.

Thanks Robert, please keep us updated if needed.
Chris

Thank you Robert
Gary

George Babits wrote: ↑Tue Jul 30, 2019 4:33 pm Not being totally "hooked" on reflectors, bulletin boards, texting, and all that modern stuff, I often wonder why people post things like broken or sagging springs to here. The Shiloh Rifles are guaranteed for the life of the original owner. All my Shiloh rifles were made pre-Bryan and they still honor that guarantee. Instead of spinning wheels on a forum, Just call Shiloh and I think they will send you another one. By the way, I've never had any problem with springs in my 34 year old Shiloh rifles. Just broke one firing pin in all that time. Damn good product; damn good people.

George
Salmon, Idaho

He ask a legitimate question asking if it was normal. No foul whatsoever. I often wonder why people post replies like yours.

Rollingblock wrote: ↑Sat Aug 24, 2019 6:30 pm

George Babits wrote: ↑Tue Jul 30, 2019 4:33 pm Not being totally "hooked" on reflectors, bulletin boards, texting, and all that modern stuff, I often wonder why people post things like broken or sagging springs to here. The Shiloh Rifles are guaranteed for the life of the original owner. All my Shiloh rifles were made pre-Bryan and they still honor that guarantee. Instead of spinning wheels on a forum, Just call Shiloh and I think they will send you another one. By the way, I've never had any problem with springs in my 34 year old Shiloh rifles. Just broke one firing pin in all that time. Damn good product; damn good people.

George
Salmon, Idaho

He ask a legitimate question asking if it was normal. No foul whatsoever. I often wonder why people post replies like yours.

Years of lead and/or fluoride ingestion

dont buy the 'other' companies springs. shiloh is the strongest. I used on to fix my Original 74 sporting rifle. two minutes, works great.
always have a spare and learn how to replace them. tighten them well....Ken

I've made a lot of springs over the years personally, V, flat, combination and coil . Most can be made to last much longer than they often do if dressed properly before being heat treated and stress relieved.
There are very many golden age muzzle loaders using complex V, turn back springs still going strong after a century or better. Dressing edges properly as well as the right hardening and stress relieving makes all the difference.
Personally I have also found that springs made of forged spring stock usually last longer than do cast springs.
Even factory springs can be improved by dressing the edges and smoothing out any cross scratches or filing marks while in the hardened state.

Another thing that helps spring longevity is to make a thin washer to fit under the spring screw head to spread the screw head tension over more area around the spring screw hole.

I think if folks will round and sand out any roughness on the four edge corners of there new factory flat springs, sand out any cross scratches with the length of the spring and add the thin washer under the spring screw head, they will reduce there Sharps spring breakage.
Transfer bar breakage is just a design weakness that needs to be put up with but seems relatively rare. Sure is the pits when a spring gives up in the middle of a relay though.

How long one owns a rifle has very little to do with how long the breakable parts last. How much it is used and how well it is cared for does! Either or both will effect part longevity.
Things mechanical are going to break sooner or later. Design and material used are also prime factors in parts life.

Question to 74 Sharps owners, where does the main and lever springs usually break? Is it just ahead of the spring screw hole?

On my Shilohs, and I have two, ahead of the spring screw hole.

Despite best efforts, after 23 years unable to wear out a 74 Shiloh. Drat, tried to wear it out so I can justify ordering another.

mdeland wrote: ↑Wed Dec 04, 2019 12:35 pm Question to 74 Sharps owners, where does the main and lever springs usually break? Is it just ahead of the spring screw hole?

My lever spring broke right where you would expect it to: At the stress riser created by the support boss and the end of the screw slot.