Shiloh Rifle Forums

Thank you John, I ordered a liter through a stateside distributor for $18.00. 847-549-7600

Robert

Looks like all of our approaches are different.

I've been casting since 1981, not real long, I know. But I've never left a bullet in the moukd at the end of casting session. One fellow caster opined that if you do that, the bullet will shtink a bit and moisture can find its way between the bullet mold cavity and the edge of the bullet.

After a casting session I use Birchwood Casey Lead Remover and Polishing Cloth to clean both sides of the sprue plate and the exterior of the moukd blocks, while the moukd is still hot. After cooling, the mould goes into the gun vault, that has a Golden Rod de-humidifier rod in it. Never have had any rusting problems.Might be maybe (40) moulds in that vault (along with guns).

Tom

Whether the bullet shrinks, or expands, as it cools will depend on the alloy. All I know is that I've always left a bullet in the mould and NEVER have I gotten any rust. Sometimes those moulds sit for 10 to 15 years before I use them again. But, if someone wants to oil up and re-clean a mould every time they want to cast, that is their choice. I myself, consider it an un-necessary waste of time.

George
Salmon, Idaho

I too have been casting only about 15 years and am buried in a "few" moulds. After reading this a couple days ago I went out in the shop where I cast and realized that I left 3 moulds on the bench exposed to the cold for several months. Whew! NO rust! But I recently purchased a second safe that I keep out there. Only had 2 guns in it and a "golden rod" and a dehumidifier . Both guns had rust! After inquiring around I was told to unplug the "rod" as it was causing the humidity. I did and it worked! And no, I never coat the moulds with anything. But I did bring them back in.

FWIW...

I cast for some 15 years with Creedmoor and Money bullets in iron molds ...

I use to put Ballistol in and outside my moulds...

Then I put the mould in 3 sandwitch plastic bags

NO rust !!! Never ... !

If there is any lead left, I just wipe it out with my nail and that's it !!

The Ballistol is wipe out with Break Cleaner.

It may not be the best way to do it, but I will not change my recipe for any reason ...

Just my 2 cents !! ( in canadian value ... lol )

Gerald

FWIW...

I cast for some 15 years with Creedmoor and Money bullets in iron molds ...

I use to put Ballistol in and outside my moulds...

Then I put the mould in 3 sandwitch plastic bags

NO rust !!! Never ... !

If there is any lead left, I just wipe it out with my nail and that's it !!

The Ballistol is wipe out with Break Cleaner.

It may not be the best way to do it, but I will not change my recipe for any reason ...

Just my 2 cents !! ( in canadian value ... lol )

Gerald

I’m going to stop using Drop-Out spray graphite in my mounds. If it isn’t completely cleaned from the mould halves after every session it eventually builds up a thick layer, especially on the outside. I’m going to try a little paraffin the next casting session. And, keep using Napa brake cleaner to wash off the storage oil.

Robert

Robert ... got to thinking, if Micro Pro 90 cleans molds, why not use it to clean the bores of firearms. Cleaned a smokeless and BP barrel with the Micro and finished with a cotton ball of Eezox to remove the water ... super clean bores

I’m with you on that, John. And, I think it’s a good idea using the Micro Pro-90 in the bore, and the lubricating ‘follow-up’ AFTER the cleaning. This brings to mind something that Merrill Martin wrote in Precision Shooting magazine many years ago. It doesn’t really apply much to lower velocity bullets as much as it does to high-velocity center-fires. He explained how pushing a high-velocity bullet down a non-lubricated, dry, spit-shined bore causes ‘fire-cracking’ in the throat of the barrel. Shooters were using really harsh copper-removing chemicals to clean the bore, but were omitting using a lubricant to treat the bore before firing.
Anyway, I’m all for maintaining ultimate accuracy in these fine Shiloh barrels. BTW, I’m convinced that EEZOX is THE best bore treatment available today.

Respectfully,
Robert

Robert, if I didn’t have a different lube to use for cleaning fowl and then a clean patch to wet coat the bore, I would use Micro too. But I have the last cans of Lehigh Valley Lube and Cleaner that was made and being sold and will be no more. The muzzle loaders know the quality of Lehigh and used the patented product by 2 fellas in Rochester NY before one died and now the product is No More. The components of the lube is pine tar oil and sodium hydroxide blended together is a step process. When I run out, have a quart of pine tar oil under the work bench from a SASS member that works in the OK plant which we did a swap .. I sent him a sleeve of Ideal Dr Hudson 32-40 lubed tapered bullets

Robert, if I didn’t have a different lube to use for cleaning fowl and then a clean patch to wet coat the bore, I would use Micro too. But I have the last cans of Lehigh Valley Lube and Cleaner that was made and being sold and will be no more. The muzzle loaders know the quality of Lehigh and used the patented product by 2 fellas in Rochester NY before one died and now the product is No More. The components of the lube is pine tar oil and sodium hydroxide blended together is a step process. When I run out, have a quart of pine tar oil under the work bench from a SASS member that works in the OK plant which we did a swap .. I sent him a sleeve of Ideal Dr Hudson 32-40 lubed tapered bullets

Robert, an example of the quality of the Lehigh Valley Lube .... I was at Ridgway one day and shot 50 consecutive reloads of Ideal 375166’s with with no blow tubing or patching from 200 to 500 meters on the steels. Then cleaned the bore with 4 cotton ball patches of Lehigh ,,, 3 patches were progressively black and the 4th cotton was 95% white

John, this is the first I have heard of this Lehigh lube. I’m impressed with its benefits! What I use between shots is a 1-part mix of Napa water-soluble milling oil/10-part water. I store my rifle with a patch treated with EEZOX. Before firing my first round I simply put one dry patch down the bore; It’s always in the same group with the other shots. I try and stay open, and ponder new ideas all the time to gain better methods. I have nothing to lose, and everything to gain by ‘staying green’.

Have a good one,
Robert