Shiloh Rifle Forums

I have pounds of lead free solder and I was going to pour a fore end cap with it. I know pewter is usually used, but since this has a melting point of 430 F and is almost pure tin with some silver and antimony would it work?
Nick

I think it will work just fine. You could however, just test it on a scrap and then recycle the solder.

I think it will work just fine. You could however, just test it on a scrap and then recycle the solder.

Yes, this one is 95% tin 5% antimony.
IMG_0484 by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr

Thanks for the input, And you did a really nice job.
Nick

I did my first test cap last night and out turned out well.
I had some slimy dross on top, should I flux to get rid of that?
I also had bubbles come up through the tip, could this have been moisture in the wood, or just shrinking/leaks?

You may of heated the metal to high. It needs to be fluid is all. Pictures are always nice if you can.

The bubbles are probably steam from moisture in the wood. Before pouring a nosecap I always have a soldering iron hot and pour out a little strip of the melt to use for repairing bubbles and voids. You don't want your melt much hotter than the melt temp when you pour it to keep bubbles to a minimum. We used to pour babbit bearings and the rule of thumb was it was the right temp to pour when it would char a pine stick but not ignite it. That's way too hot to pour onto wood.

When I poured Babbitt seats or bearings as well as wiping pipe joints using wiping solder I would roll up news paper and give it a quick dip in the pot to look at the shade of brown when it's ready for use.