Shiloh Rifle Forums

I want to develop a load for the best accuracy for 200 yard bench rest accuracy. The load will be around a 1:16 .393” dia. straight sided PP bullet (the case mouth is too small for a DD bullet). I’m thinking a bullet weight in the neighborhood of 350 grains thinking I can keep it supersonic to the target. For this relatively short range I don’t need a high BC. My barrel twist rate is one in sixteen gain twist. I don’t see a bullet like I need listed anywhere so I guess it will need to be designed. One of my questions is what is the ogive length to overall length need to be?
Any thoughts or ideas will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks Richard

The 400360 shoots well to 600 yards in 16 and 18 twist 40's. So if the chamber on your rifle is so tight that won't fit , might ask BACO about making one in .395 diameter, or smaller if that's what the rifle needs.
Or have Brooks build you one the same length as the 400360 in your desired diameter with his original postel nose.

Steve Brooks will make you a mold for paper patch that is adjustable for length.

40 tgbs Kal tool.

Kal Tool + Die
http://kal.castpics.net/default.htm
He makes excellent molds.
So does Steve Brooks

Bob

I’m playing with thebullet I have. It’s OAL is 1.441 and 405 grains I’ve cut the base shorter so now the OAL is 1.375” and weighs 383 gns. It’s as cast diameter is .393”. I shortened them on the lathe. Bored a hole in a bar of aluminum that’s a nice slip fit for the bullet so the hole runout is whatever the headstock bearings are and trimmed the bullet bases with the cutoff tool. I’ll load up a few of these and see how they perform.
Cheers Richard

How does that bullet unmodified shoot?

About 5 inches at 200 yards Don.
Cheers Richard

Shortening it up like you did should help
Taking it right down to 1.3 or just a touch under might even work well

Thought I would post an update on my .40-65. It has a 1:14 gain twist bbl from RKS. Was having a hard time getting it to show any promise with a variety of loads. I finally decided that it may be the barrel and decided to try polishing the barrel with the thought being that there might be rough areas in the barrel that might be ‘put right’ by smoothing thing up. This is how I went about it. I made a brass jag that was very hard to push through the barrel with a stiff CF cleaning rod using 2” diameter Arsenal patches. It has a radius on the forward part.My cleaning rod also has a bore guide that fits the chamber but only goes in about 3/4” as I don’t want the rod riding on the bore. I then made a fixture out of a 1 1/4”hard maple dowel. I cut a 3” section of dowel and bored a hole in it 2.5” long and the diameter of said hole was a slip fit for the muzzle end of the bbl. When it’s clamped to the bbl it prevents the jag/patch from touching the bbl crown. I oiled up a patch with 3 in 1 oil and ran it down the bore until it hit the dowel and pulled it back and out and without removing the patch from the jag I gave it a liberal dose of JB compound and stroked this ten times from inside the chamber to muzzle stop, then repeated the process with a new patch and stopping a bout 5-6 inches shot of the muzzle. Then twice more stopping further short each time. The barrel has a chamber with no leade just a 45degree transition, I short stroked that section about ten times. Then cleaned the bbl squeaky clean. That did the job. Got quite a few less than moa groups at 100 yards with various PP loads. The smallest being .625”
Cheers Richard

Give us 10 shots at 200.

Back in October you said you have 1 in 16 twist, and now you have 1 in 14?

1 in 14…jeez can’t slip anything by you guys