How about this ?
- James M
- Posts: 83
- Joined: Wed Jun 30, 2004 1:52 am
- Location: Pasadena, CA
How about this ?
I think I found my reloading table.
It comes precut with all necessary hardware.
What do you think of it ?
http://www.efficientmachinery.com/sturdybench.gif
Is the 1" MDF top sturdy enough?
James M
It comes precut with all necessary hardware.
What do you think of it ?
http://www.efficientmachinery.com/sturdybench.gif
Is the 1" MDF top sturdy enough?
James M
Received my Shiloh catalog waiting for my engraving order kit
Planning my Sharps order, lots of Photoshop'n
Planning my Sharps order, lots of Photoshop'n
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- Posts: 341
- Joined: Fri Sep 12, 2003 8:29 pm
- Location: Jacksonville, Fl (NS Mayport)
I agree with Mike t. that 1" is not enough. My press is mounted to (2) stacked 2"x 6"x 18" planks via bolts and T nuts. The planks are bolted to my work bench top which is 1 1/2" thick. There is no give when case forming, extra holes with T nuts in place allow mounting my luber/sizer when its needed. Rbump
- mrrangerman
- Posts: 97
- Joined: Tue Dec 23, 2003 8:42 am
- Location: Michigan
James M
Just make a table out of 2x4 stacked together upright, cut the size you want the table to be wide -3". Drill a hole 6" in from both sides on all the peaces for the top. If you can make a jig for a drill press to keep all the holes the same, would be best. But if you don't have a drill press just drill the holes 1/2" so that after you glue all the peaces together you should be able to run a 3/8 theaded rod though them. What you will end up with will look like a cutting board about 3 1/2"H 27"W x 5 or 6 foot long. Box in the outside edges with a 2x4, will add 3" to the width, and length, then make some legs for it. It will be heavy but it won't flex on you when you use your press.
Just make a table out of 2x4 stacked together upright, cut the size you want the table to be wide -3". Drill a hole 6" in from both sides on all the peaces for the top. If you can make a jig for a drill press to keep all the holes the same, would be best. But if you don't have a drill press just drill the holes 1/2" so that after you glue all the peaces together you should be able to run a 3/8 theaded rod though them. What you will end up with will look like a cutting board about 3 1/2"H 27"W x 5 or 6 foot long. Box in the outside edges with a 2x4, will add 3" to the width, and length, then make some legs for it. It will be heavy but it won't flex on you when you use your press.
If you aim at nothing in life, you will hit your target every time.
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- Posts: 726
- Joined: Wed Jul 02, 2003 2:35 pm
- Location: Renton, Washington
reloading table
James there are lots of possibilities here.
I bought an old desk with a "return" ( think an "L" shape) and it's been in use many years. The drawers are very useful for my front rest, calipers and other items, and, with a little triming very sturdy. It's almost certain you can find one at a garage sale for a whole lot less than having one built and much faster then building one yourself.
If the desk top is too thin you can re-inforce if from the bottom with MDF or 3/4 ply - the ply being more of a favorite as it's much stronger and tougher.
By the way, did I see you are in Pasidena? If so I am doing some research on the area.
Laurence
I bought an old desk with a "return" ( think an "L" shape) and it's been in use many years. The drawers are very useful for my front rest, calipers and other items, and, with a little triming very sturdy. It's almost certain you can find one at a garage sale for a whole lot less than having one built and much faster then building one yourself.
If the desk top is too thin you can re-inforce if from the bottom with MDF or 3/4 ply - the ply being more of a favorite as it's much stronger and tougher.
By the way, did I see you are in Pasidena? If so I am doing some research on the area.
Laurence
THIS SPACE FOR RENT
RIFLE:
45 - 70 #1 Sporter, shotgun buttplate, bone charcoal, 28 inch heavy octagon, semi fancy wood, pewter tip, MVA soule sights. 11 lbs, 10 1/2 ounces.
RIFLE:
45 - 70 #1 Sporter, shotgun buttplate, bone charcoal, 28 inch heavy octagon, semi fancy wood, pewter tip, MVA soule sights. 11 lbs, 10 1/2 ounces.
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- Posts: 3817
- Joined: Wed Sep 25, 2002 1:22 pm
- Location: between No Where & No Place, WA
FWIW. Colleagues: none of these Home Depot/Lowes fold up/kit benches are really worth it. There just isn’t the mass or structural strength to holdup to the use of reloading. Soon or later, it will fail & it will only fail when you are using it. I’ve seen it happen to woodworkers & reloaders.
As Omak said, an old desk will work & the heavier the better. I once had an old wooden office desk that worked well for a work/reloading bench. It’s biggest drawback was its size.
I think you 1st need to consider s: 1) how much space can you devote to a reloading bench, 2.) how long is your reach & how tall are you.
My 6’ long bench & its cabinet atop it fill up fast @ times. My experience has been that if the bench is too deep & your reach short, you may wind up having difficulty accessing items that mysteriously migrate to the rear of the bench., esp. if when sitting down.
I based my bench design on the plans (US$4.00) available thru:
National Reloading Manufacturers Asso. (NRMA)
Suite 300
One Centerpointe Drive
Lake Oswego, OR 97035
http://www.reload-nrma.com/
Briefly, the NRMA bench is approx 34”x72” & has 4X4s for legs. Very heavy & robust construction. The cabinet atop it is approx 12x72X24“. I don’t know the cost to fabricate such a bench today when three-quarter inch AC plyw’d costs over US$40.00 for a 4’X8’ sheet in the Tacoma/Olympia WA area.
One thing that I did on the cabinet was fabricate a pull out tray to hold the balance scale @ eye-level while sitting . The NRMA plans call for a fold down door to hold the scale, but I reasoned that a pull out tray would be easier fabricate. More accurate readings result when the scale is @ this level . You will not get as fatigued from moving your head up & down to read the scale. Been there, done that….
The presses, etc, are securely--emphasis on securely-- mounted to a piece of 2X6” & then these are clamped --w/ large screw C- clamps (or “cramps” as those on the other side of the pond call them) to the bench top. This way the top is always clear & free from obstruction(s). One of these days , I’ll try to buy some scrap aluminum plate from the local machine shops to take the place of the 2X6”.
Instead of a fixed shelf on the bottom, I fabricated & installed 2 large trays w/ full extension 75# drawer guides. It’s a great deal easier to find what you are looking for when you can see it. My experience is that that if I can not find it, see it, or if it’s a PITA to get to, I will not use it--another been there & done that.
This is my 3 rd reloading bench . Make or have it made to your physical needs. A bench that is too short or too high for your height is tiresome to work from. A bench that doesn’t fit will be a PITA to utilize--once again, been there & done that.
I would also suggest that for protection, install a piece of one-quarter inch tempered Masonite or hardboard over the top. In the event of a spillage, it will protect from liquids & powder is easier to sweep up from a smooth surface. You guessed it--another been there done that!
If you want, send me a personal message w/ your e-mail & I’ll take & send you some digital pictures in the next few days….
As Omak said, an old desk will work & the heavier the better. I once had an old wooden office desk that worked well for a work/reloading bench. It’s biggest drawback was its size.
I think you 1st need to consider s: 1) how much space can you devote to a reloading bench, 2.) how long is your reach & how tall are you.
My 6’ long bench & its cabinet atop it fill up fast @ times. My experience has been that if the bench is too deep & your reach short, you may wind up having difficulty accessing items that mysteriously migrate to the rear of the bench., esp. if when sitting down.
I based my bench design on the plans (US$4.00) available thru:
National Reloading Manufacturers Asso. (NRMA)
Suite 300
One Centerpointe Drive
Lake Oswego, OR 97035
http://www.reload-nrma.com/
Briefly, the NRMA bench is approx 34”x72” & has 4X4s for legs. Very heavy & robust construction. The cabinet atop it is approx 12x72X24“. I don’t know the cost to fabricate such a bench today when three-quarter inch AC plyw’d costs over US$40.00 for a 4’X8’ sheet in the Tacoma/Olympia WA area.
One thing that I did on the cabinet was fabricate a pull out tray to hold the balance scale @ eye-level while sitting . The NRMA plans call for a fold down door to hold the scale, but I reasoned that a pull out tray would be easier fabricate. More accurate readings result when the scale is @ this level . You will not get as fatigued from moving your head up & down to read the scale. Been there, done that….
The presses, etc, are securely--emphasis on securely-- mounted to a piece of 2X6” & then these are clamped --w/ large screw C- clamps (or “cramps” as those on the other side of the pond call them) to the bench top. This way the top is always clear & free from obstruction(s). One of these days , I’ll try to buy some scrap aluminum plate from the local machine shops to take the place of the 2X6”.
Instead of a fixed shelf on the bottom, I fabricated & installed 2 large trays w/ full extension 75# drawer guides. It’s a great deal easier to find what you are looking for when you can see it. My experience is that that if I can not find it, see it, or if it’s a PITA to get to, I will not use it--another been there & done that.
This is my 3 rd reloading bench . Make or have it made to your physical needs. A bench that is too short or too high for your height is tiresome to work from. A bench that doesn’t fit will be a PITA to utilize--once again, been there & done that.
I would also suggest that for protection, install a piece of one-quarter inch tempered Masonite or hardboard over the top. In the event of a spillage, it will protect from liquids & powder is easier to sweep up from a smooth surface. You guessed it--another been there done that!
If you want, send me a personal message w/ your e-mail & I’ll take & send you some digital pictures in the next few days….
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- Posts: 182
- Joined: Fri May 07, 2004 1:58 pm
- Location: Calhoun, Ga.
I built a NRMA bench approximately 25 years ago. It is extremely sturdy and heavy. I do not feel it will ever turn over if you have to put a lot of pressure on a reloading press. I made mine with hand tools in my basement and it turned out good. If a person has access to a table saw and a slight amount of skill with wood, a great bench can be made.
The cost of one now would probably be in the $150 to $200 range for the material alone. My labor was cheap and I didn't count it.
I wholeheartedly recommend the plan.
The cost of one now would probably be in the $150 to $200 range for the material alone. My labor was cheap and I didn't count it.
I wholeheartedly recommend the plan.
- Omaha Poke
- Posts: 972
- Joined: Tue Feb 25, 2003 6:52 pm
- Location: Edmonds, WA
JamesM, a lot depends upon the amout of room or space you have for a bench and whether or not you need to disassemble it from time to time like I do.
I had a great bench, but then my wife and I bought another beautiful chesh and hutch, and the bench had to go. Then I started thinking, and came up with using my Black and Decker Workmate. I cut a top for it out of 3/4" Russian Birch plywood, and attached it with bolts through the existing holes in the bench top. Mine is an older style B&D Workmate, and is heavy enough to be very stable. This is just another idea you might consider if you are limited for space. Randy
I had a great bench, but then my wife and I bought another beautiful chesh and hutch, and the bench had to go. Then I started thinking, and came up with using my Black and Decker Workmate. I cut a top for it out of 3/4" Russian Birch plywood, and attached it with bolts through the existing holes in the bench top. Mine is an older style B&D Workmate, and is heavy enough to be very stable. This is just another idea you might consider if you are limited for space. Randy
Randy Ruwe
- Omaha Poke
- Posts: 972
- Joined: Tue Feb 25, 2003 6:52 pm
- Location: Edmonds, WA
- Capt. Call
- Posts: 661
- Joined: Mon Nov 24, 2003 4:28 pm
- Location: up the Allegheny---north of Pittsburgh
This is what worked for me. Went to Lowes and got two kitchen cabinets that were heavy built and a counter top. The cabinets come in any width and configuration that you could want. With the shelfs and drawers all ready built in.....storage is a snap. The counter tops come in any length so make it as big as you want. Being the two are made to bolt toghter... as bought...it is as easy as 1-2-4.
Yes I had the Mrs. with me so the colors all match my room!
In the end the price wasn't to bad for a custom bench....that looks nice too!
Yes I had the Mrs. with me so the colors all match my room!
In the end the price wasn't to bad for a custom bench....that looks nice too!
I hate rude behavior in a man. I won't tolerate it.
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- Posts: 3430
- Joined: Thu Jun 03, 2004 10:22 pm
- Location: Ca.
Capt. Call,
I like your loading bench. I used base cabinets, used to orginize a garage, for lowers and smaller ones for uppers. I used one inch plywood for a top and that was sufficent for what I needed, I don't plan on doing any major torqueing on the bench top is why ony one inch and I do have a vise mounted to the bench and have taken barrels off actions with no sweat.
James M.,
Build your reloading bench to fit your needs, those plans that Ray showed are really nice and dosen't look as if you need a major wood working shop to build. If you make the bench as a take apart, you would be able store it easy, if you moved. Loading benches are a personal thing to fit ones own personality and needs.
Kelley O.
I like your loading bench. I used base cabinets, used to orginize a garage, for lowers and smaller ones for uppers. I used one inch plywood for a top and that was sufficent for what I needed, I don't plan on doing any major torqueing on the bench top is why ony one inch and I do have a vise mounted to the bench and have taken barrels off actions with no sweat.
James M.,
Build your reloading bench to fit your needs, those plans that Ray showed are really nice and dosen't look as if you need a major wood working shop to build. If you make the bench as a take apart, you would be able store it easy, if you moved. Loading benches are a personal thing to fit ones own personality and needs.
Kelley O.
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- Posts: 4
- Joined: Thu Apr 22, 2004 7:52 pm
- Location: HUBBARD, OREGON
reloading bench
I guess I went the easy way but I bought mine from Cabelas. It worked out just about perfect. It has a maple butcher block 2 in. thick. It is made by Kennedy tool box company (Kencraft). It has 5 drawers and a nice storage area with shelves.
The top was so nice I couldn't bring myself to drill holes in it so I took a piece of 3/8" stainless steel and drilled hole pattern for my press, powder measure, sizer, and my swageing press. I use a large c-clamp to attach plate to the bench. I adjust the plate to fit the job I'm doing . This really works great for me.
- James M
- Posts: 83
- Joined: Wed Jun 30, 2004 1:52 am
- Location: Pasadena, CA