Powder Measure ?

Discussions of powders, bullets and loading information.

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Mint Hill Mule
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Powder Measure ?

Post by Mint Hill Mule »

I want to start reloading 45/70 with bp. I plan on using a drop tube to put powder in the case. My question is, what do most folks use to measure a charge of powder? I have a muzzle loading measure that is adjustable in 10 grain increments. I also have an RCBS Uniflow, bench mount, which I use for smokeless. Also, is the preferred method by volume or weight.

Any and all advise will be appreciated.

Thanks,
Mule
Ray Newman
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Post by Ray Newman »

MH Mule: There have several threads on this topic .

Use the search feature & under ‘key word’ type in “measures”.

I did this, & ‘bout 85 threads on powder measures came up.

IMHO, you'll get better results if you measure the powder, then weight it (unless you have a 1st class bench rest measure) , & finally drop tube it . You’ll get constant results that way.

There is no 'preferred way". You need to use what works best for you & what achieves accurate reloads & groups.
Grand PooBah
WA ST F. E. S.

In real life may you be the bad ass that you claim to be on social media....
Crash Landing
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Post by Crash Landing »

Mule:
I recommend you NOT use your RCBS powder measure with black powder. The stuff is easy to ignite and that plastic powder hopper can build up a static electric charge. Having your powder measure detonate with perhaps a 1/4 lb of black powder in it would pretty much spoil your whole loading session! You might consider one of the powder measures with a metal hopper, such as the Lyaman, for metering black powder. In the mean time, your muzzle loading measure and a drop tube should hold you in good stead.
Best regards
Randy W
don marable
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powder measure

Post by don marable »

Mint Hill Mule:

From what I have read on this forum, I would think the most commonly used powder measure is the Lyman 55. Call Bullalo Arms and ask them what they recommend. I bet it is the Lyman 55.

I bought a Harrell's Precision measure. It is made out of stainless and brass and it is beautiful. It is also very accurate and smooth to operate. It is also north of $200.00 to purchase. I think for all practical purposes the Lyman will work fine for about 25 percent of that cost. If I had it to do over I would opt for the Lyman.

Don
rcasto
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Post by rcasto »

I have a Harrells and a Lyman. With the coarseness of black powder, I do not find much difference in metering accuracy between the two. With the finer grain smokeless powders, the Harrell really shines.

If you are needing it for black, save the money and get the Lyman. Buffalo arms even has a brass hopper for it if you are concerned with static.
RC
Ray Newman
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Post by Ray Newman »

Powder weight or Volume?

viewtopic.php?t=3707

An on-line BPCR loading primer:

http://www.ssbpcrc.co.uk/Resources/Intr ... oading.pdf

Bullet casting primer:

http://www.longrangebpcr.com/8Phases.htm
Grand PooBah
WA ST F. E. S.

In real life may you be the bad ass that you claim to be on social media....
The Montanan
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Post by The Montanan »

Crash Landing wrote:Mule:
I recommend you NOT use your RCBS powder measure with black powder. The stuff is easy to ignite and that plastic powder hopper can build up a static electric charge. Having your powder measure detonate with perhaps a 1/4 lb of black powder in it would pretty much spoil your whole loading session! You might consider one of the powder measures with a metal hopper, such as the Lyaman, for metering black powder. In the mean time, your muzzle loading measure and a drop tube should hold you in good stead.
Best regards
Cash Landing I hope you read this link well Static Electricity and Black Powder it educates those about the so called myth about static electricity and how it will set off black powder. I used to think the same thing too, until I was in John Kings shop from King Gunworks in Kila, Mt. He uses a Lee Perfect Powder Measure, and when I questioned him about it he just laughed and gave me the link above to read. Ever since then I have been using a Lee Perfect Powder Measure, and recently here I employed a Lyman 55 with a clear hopper. I have NO FEAR what so ever of an explosion happening.

There has never been a documented incident of static electricity setting black powder off.

The biggest fear here is fear itself. Most of the statements like yours above only enhance that fear without facts being presented to back it up. Seeing is believing... read the information and see the test that were conducted.

I hope this helps yourself and others.
The Montanan

"I don't care what a person shoots, as long as he shoots it well"
IronSight
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Post by IronSight »

The Titanic was deemed UNSINKABLE !!!

I can't understand the logic of some of you all: Stop and think about it for a while! Your knowingly mixing the potential of sparks and a flammable material even though the possibility of ignition is remote at bestl!!
Why'n the hell would anyone even consider that combination less'n they had a death wish, especially when there are measures out there specifically designed for BP.
There's always a first time...and it sure as hell ain't gonna be me.
IF YOU CAN'T MAKE IT WORK..AT LEAST MAKE IT LOOK GOOD!!
Smokin
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Post by Smokin »

Ironsight,

Is it safe, then, to assume that both you and your powder measure are grounded whilst your are in the process of dispensing charges of black powder and that your loading room is adequately humidified to reduce the chance of static build up to an absulute minimum while providing paths to eliminate potential ?
Smokin

Member in tall standing of the Frozen Tundra Chapter, Flat Earth Society.
IronSight
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Post by IronSight »

Smokin,
Yupp! and you forgot to mention no incandescent light bulbs in the vicinity of the bench which is even more important than static concerns. A good healthy sneeze on that hot glass bulb! and whoosh-kaboom!!!!

I once heard a sayin "stupid people die in stupid ways" , the older i get, the more this rings true.
IF YOU CAN'T MAKE IT WORK..AT LEAST MAKE IT LOOK GOOD!!
Bumper
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Post by Bumper »

:arrow: I use Lyman 55 and Belding& Mull powder measures. You need to develope a rhythm when using a powder measure in order to get consistant results. Using a digital scale is faster than using a beam type scale to check on your results but both will show that consistancy yeilds better results. I test my scales with check weights each time I reload. I prefer the B & M powder measure at this time to any measure that I've used but the Lyman 55 is a more than serviceable powder measure. Rbump
Smokin
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Post by Smokin »

IronSight,

Whew!! I am greatly relieved to hear of your precautions. 8) One more problem may exist, tho', and that is a rupture of a working fluorescent tube. :shock: Yup. A contributor to the old Shooters.com said that he had seen this happen in his workplace. Now, let's see, that could leave us with only candles and Coleman lanterns. :wink: I wonder what the old buffler runners used? :?
Smokin

Member in tall standing of the Frozen Tundra Chapter, Flat Earth Society.
IronSight
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Location: Indiana

Post by IronSight »

I don't have a clue what conditions the old cowboys and buffalo hunters reloaded in. If i had to geuss, it'd probably be in bright sunlight-maybe someone else knows. Thats what i would a done.. in a dark cabin, those candles and lanterns are a poor source of light.
As far as fluorescent lights, i have NO lighting turned ON directly above my bench when i reload. I depend on lighting from fixtures a few feet away.

I read a study a while back on self-service gasoline fires at the pump. The study attributed the root cause of the fires to static electricity discharges. Now the interesting part is that the vast majority of victims were women. Why? The report noted a couple reasons. 1., women tend to go back in their car more often than men while the gasoline is pumping.
And 2. women wear a lot of synthetic nylon thingy types of clothing. In addition, most auto upholstery is also made out of synthetic materials. All this coupled togather with the friction of sliding out of the seat to stop the pump is a perfect static electricity generator. When the statically 'charged' person grabs the nozzle a static discharge occurs to the auto frame causing ignition of any fumes present. This assumes the person did not touch the frame of the car while sliding out which would provide a ground to discharge any static build-up before the pump handle is touched.

Now BP is NOT gasoline and further BP has a much higher flash point and is much less susceptable to hi-voltage 'low amperage' electric arcs 'n sparks. BP is much less volitale than gasoline fumes in free air. That said, the point of all this is that static discharges can and DO ignite gasoline fumes and cause car fires!

Look, far as i know were all big boys here and were all gonna do what we're gonna do. Just wanted to add some balance to this thread and get people at least thinkin about BP safety issues. The last thing i want to hear about is someone getting injured or worse while reloading with BP.
IF YOU CAN'T MAKE IT WORK..AT LEAST MAKE IT LOOK GOOD!!
Kelley O. Roos
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Post by Kelley O. Roos »

I load on a wooden reloading bench, now how much static electricity do you think that bench is going to load up with :?: Not enough to bother me.

I know a guy who should have blown up himself a long time ago. He smokes, has loose powder all over the place when he reloads.

If your going to get anal about this, maybe you should live in a closet qnd never come out to the light of day.

Kelley O. :twisted:
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bucksnort
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Post by bucksnort »

Long ago, I did a LOT of pistol shooting with 'white' powder. Now, you can adjust it just about perfect with regard to the charge you want. However, 20-30 rounds down the road, they don't weigh out any more. You have to re-adjust the measure. But I figure at 25M, your mid-range trajectory is not that critical.

I prefer using the powder on BP to throw a charge which is 'close' and then get it exact with the trickler. Speed is not too important to me, while accurate loads are.
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